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I got it on eBay, listed under "Ford E3TZ-18476-J" Unfortunately there were only two on there: mine was $50, and there's another dreamer trying to sell one for $300 lol.

Went through the cooling system. There was plaque/buildup in some of the hoses, pretty sad state overall. Also found a perfectly preserved, completely bald mouse floating in the overflow tank. The top cap was firmly in place. I've owned this truck about two years and never touched the overflow...

The closest I've gotten is #F2AF12A648AA. This redirects to #DY1145 on the official Ford parts site, which is the flared style that I just tested resistance for. It shows compatibility with nearly every 80's Ford vehicle I can think of, including the Bronco II. Rangers aren't on that site at...

4520ohms, looks like this is a sensor... after this pineapple express passes I'll install it and see how the voltage reads. My truck passed smog yesterday, so now I'm just chasing gremlins for fun. Edit: should note that the connector on this doesn't match the ECT connector on my truck, but...

Unfortunately this confusion extends to all Rangers. I've seen three styles show up as "sensor" so far. All of them can also be found listed as "sender", so that distinction can't be trusted. #1: Cone: I've only seen this from the aftermarket... I can't find a Motorcraft part that looks like...

Dang, ford.oempartsonline.com has that part listed as a "sensor", then in the fine print also says "sender". I need to get a proper factory parts book so I'm not searching in the dark. All my wrenching experience is 60's/70's sports cars, so I'm used to venting to a catch can. This is the...

I'm also a bit confused about these sensors. The one I installed (Standard Motor TX6T) is pointed. Looks like this: The Motorcraft part (DY-1145) is flared, looks like this: Rock Auto shows both styles as compatible. Gonna order the Motorcraft since I know that will work, just thought it...

Thermostat seems to be working fine. The upper radiator hose didn't start warming until 8 minutes in. The morning dew on the hose even stuck around until then. The driver's side heater hose got warm pretty quickly. The other (return?) heater hose never got very warm at all. I assume normal for...

Removed the PCV hose at the intake, capped off the intake nipple and plugged the loose hose. This DID fix hunting idle with IAC unplugged. Actually, the first run, it made the hunting even worse. Second and third it was gone. These computers seem to need time to settle into changes. This would...

Ok, first thing I did today was remove the IAC and disassemble the two halves, and realized that I have replaced the motor side, just forgot. The diaphragm side looks original, but it moves freely. I noticed that I left an open fastener bore in the side of the airbox, Maybe it was for a...

The book that came with my code reader (granted, not produced by Ford) lists: 12=RPM at idle out of range/high 13=RPM at idle out of range/low The IAC has not been replaced by me, so could be original for all I know. Worth replacing? It idles at 850-875 fully warmed up, which is within the...

Ok, opening this back up. After that last fail I gave up and just drove illegally for a while. Going to try another test here soon. First thing I did today was another round of EEC IV tests. Got TPS out of range, and it was indeed too high at throttle closed. This TPS is <2 years old but it's...

I'll give it a look... I did replace the rotor/cap/plugs as a group a couple years ago and didn't notice any play. I also set the base timing, so I must've known where that SPOUT plug was at some point! Your description helped, yellow wires with green trace that end in a plastic plug.

Ran the code reader and got some fresh codes. It came back clean before my first (failed) test, strangely. KOEO (key on engine off) gave: 23 -- TPS out of range. I've previously replaced & set this with a multimeter, had to do it to pass two years ago. Confirmed it was still correct before my...

Closing the loop on my previous issue (and starting a new one)... replacing the fuel regulator got the truck to pass the sniff test with the existing cat, so thanks for encouraging that. I shotgunned some other stuff at the same time: new PCV, new air temp sensor, new coolant temp sensor, new...

I'll add that to the list. I've got a kitchen IR gun that claims to go to 1000F. I've read somewhere else that I need to pull a plug wire and ground it to do that test, couldn't figure out why.

Honestly the truck runs great, no knocking, no smoke. The plugs do look lean, but not severely. I'm "warming up" to the idea that it's just a bad cat. Wish I had a newer vehicle to sniff, lol. This is the most modern I've ever owned, hence my lack of knowledge. I'm used to tuning carbs to 13:1...

After reading up on CA and universal cats, it might not be so crazy to think the cat failed within 2 years. An exhaust shop tech claims that Magnaflows consistently fail inside of a year. They seem to like Walker more, but say all universals have less material inside than OEM, so they die...

Ah missed that fine print. The cat (at least here in CA) is $500 for the Walker generic, so that's my last resort. Especially since the one on the truck is only 2 years/3k miles old. It does have a 5 year/50k mile warranty, but I imagine they don't make that easy to claim. If I have to buy...

I'm not seeing NOx on either the 2021 or 2023 test (attached). Unless I'm missing it...