Recent content by nola mike

Throwing one of these on my 4.0. Looks like a straightforward 02 sensor code (AFAIK these might damn well be original at 230k miles). But the live data is odd (see screenshots). I get reasonable freeze frame fuel trims, but the live trims are way off on all the sensors, so I don't know what to...

There's definitely a ridge on the drum. I wire wheeled it but didn't get too aggressive.

Ok, went back in there today. Tried to get the cable on the correct side of the anchor pin plate...and it was seized to the anchor pin. Same thing on the other side. I managed to get it loose and in the right order, and the adjuster lever dropped a bit. Loosening the cable let the eye slide a...

Gotcha. Didn't manually adjust because the drums are already tight, but if the shoes aren't against the pin then that would explain it. Maybe I'll check it out tomorrow

Ok, even with that assembled wrong though, you think that would be the difference in the lever riding that high? Keep in mind that that was the before pic, I don't think I had that much gap when I reinstalled, and the drums are pretty tight with the new shoes.

I have the proper tools, the springs came on and off a few times and were on the floor. One of the adjusters was tight, but the other was not. Both greased and turning freely now. If that lever is supposed to sit below the wheel then that's my problem. But no way it will do that.

Not sure what you're saying here? I still get a good amount of pedal travel before engagement, but not sure what's normal. I do know that pulling on the self adjustment cable doesn't turn the wheel, and the lever is still sitting above the wheel.

If the mechanism is working. I don't think mine is set up correctly, nor do I think it was previously. When I took those brakes apart, the adjusting screw was still turned all the way in.

I have everything back together and it's working fine. I don't have any more "after" pics, but these are the "before". Looks the same now. Unless you're houdini I don't see how you'd replace that cable with the springs on there. I verified that the adjuster pawls are on the correct side.

Yeah, so that's what I thought. It's like that on both sides. I don't think the cable is routed wrong or wrapped around anything. Like I said, it was like that when I opened it up. Strange. To replace that cable, do I need to remove the shoes? That may be something that doesn't happen...

Just replaced a rusted/leaking brake line, wheel cylinders and shoes. All went ok except that the self adjuster is wonky. Doesn't seem to adjust. Pics attached, it was in this position when removed, and both adjusters were all the way in despite significant shoe wear. The pawl doesn't engage...

Failing inspection because of a leak between the y-pipe and cat. A couple of questions: 1) Looks like 3 bolts holding everything together. Ain't no way those are coming out. I think I have enough room to get a sawzall in there at the joint. Yes? Other suggestions? Do I need to unbolt the Y-pipe...

Trying to get this thing to pass inspection (they failed me for a serpentine belt, c''mon!) and noticed that the reverse lights above the cab don't work. In the tail lights work fine. No voltage at the plug, though the brake light works ok. The wiring disappears behind the headliner. Wondering...

I'm rusted out from the cat back, and need to replace the exhaust. '97 supercab 4.0. I'm having a hard time finding a good diagram or complete parts list for what I need. I'm going to be doing this in a remote area, so it's going to be a PITA if I realize I'm missing some stupid $2 part. Here's...

'97 Ranger 4.0L 4wd. ABS light has been on for a week or so. For some reason, I'm having a hard time finding good troubleshooting info. Pretty sure I have RABS, how can I confirm? 1. Pulling codes. Not sure how to do this on this model? Do I have the jumper-able connector? Under the parking...