Oh one other thought. If it was getting fuel again, do you think it would be worth trying to roll start the thing? I’m just wondering if there’s a wire near the ignition switch that’s messed up and when you turn the ignition to crank maybe it comes loose or something? Cause in the run position...
Well today I went out and inspected the damage from my electrical mishap. It looks like i mostly burnt up the little thing i had rigged up. I also inspected the fuseable links at the starter relay and they look good. So i plugged the TCM back in and turned the key to the and turned the key to...
Huh, everything still works and lights up. Okay I know i said I was giving up, but it’s really just driving me crazy at this point. I went and looked all around the engine bay and the wire harness for the TCM isn’t melted TO bad... lol. I’m pretty sure that this can’t be related to the no spark...
Yeah I’m not sure how it happened either. It was when I was trying to test the RUN lead and my contraption that I had rigged up touched something else in that wire harness that had an exposed wire and it didn’t just melt, there was actually a little flame for a second. Now that makes me want to...
Well here’s the glorious ending to this stupid problem. I wanted to run through the tests ONE MORE TIME to make sure I didn’t miss anything. Only problem was, I was by myself and didn’t have anyone here to crank the truck while I watched the meter. So I rigged me up a way to hold the probe from...
I’m learning all kinds of stuff. Well here’s where I’m at.
Start had 10v while cranking; nothing with just the key turned on.
Run has 10 volts while cranking and 12 volts with key in run position.
TFI ground is good
Coil and TFI both have 12 volts with key on
Still no spark.
Okay one more thing... I just decided to test my coil wire for continuity and got nothing, so I tested another one I had laying around and got nothing. All I’m doing is touching the ends of the probes to the metal shaft of the coil wire that around the top of the coil and the distributor cap. I...
Okay, and the TFI and Coil both have 12 volts with the key on. But no spark. So I will check the TFI ground again. Yes, I do have the gray TFI. I will test these things and report back my findings! I hope I get this thing figured out soon.
Okay, I get that part. Still no spark from the coil when I crank it. The replacement distributor came with a new TFI so now the truck has a new coil, distributor, cap, and TFI. I feel like I have to be getting close to figuring it out, or that it’s going to be something simple that I’m...
Got it. I was doing it wrong then, go figure. Makes perfect sense now that you say it, how else would you know if the wire is good or not! Duh. If nothing else, at least I’m learning about something I didn’t have a clue about before.
Okay, then i was on the correct wire. So I suppose that there is a problem in that wire somewhere because it didn’t have continuity. I just had the meter set to give a beep when it found continuity, so I didn’t look at the actual reading on the meter but it sure didn’t beep and it would on some...
Oh and when I tested for continuity on that blue wire, it didn’t have continuity. However I also just decided to test some of the other wires at the harness where they attach to the computer and found that only like 4 wires had continuity. Is that normal? Doesn’t seem right to me, but I’m out of...
RonD, I think I finally figured out which pin is number 56 on the wiring harness to the computer. Is it the one with the solid blue wire? The harness only has 2 blue wires, one solid blue and one blue with a green stripe. If I tested the correct one, it only had .14 volts while cranking.
RonD, yes I had my wife turn the starter while I had the cap off and watched the rotor turn. Thanks again for your help, I’ll update when I make progress.
So I’m guessing I need a new distributor. Or can the pip sensor just be changed? Anyone have any advice for me about this? Also, where is the hold down clamp for the distributor? I can’t tell how you remove the thing.
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