Recent content by Dirmaid

Ok, so I've been researching how to move to a larger injector for power adder purposes, but theres really not a lot of info out there on what it takes to do the swap. So I went ahead and torn down my fuel system to see what's what. Flow Rate: Ford classifies the SOHC injectors as a rather low...

I'm pretty sure it's the same geometry. I thought about doing that, but I wasn't completely sure about it. I'll have to give that a shot when I put the truck up on the rack to drop the tranny for a rebuild. Did you drop the tank to do your drilling?

Ok so I know that the 4.0 with the 5R55E has a 2500-3000 RPM stall torque converter from the factory, which in my opinion is slightly high for a stock vehicle but I'm not complaining. The question here is, why does every replacement converter say 'Low Stall" on it? I definitely would not call a...

Ok guys, I figured I could get this done on my own, but I'm tired of replacing ABS sensors. I've got a DJM 2/3 kit on my 01 Ranger (Auto RWD with 4.0), rear shackle is on the inner hole and the front bump stops are pancakes so I'm sitting around 3/4. I bolted on a BII rear sway bar and at first...

It seems I gave you bad numbers, I went in with 5 degrees off. I have the spec sheet in front of me now and seems I'm maxed out at 1 degree either side

Yeah, you'll need them for sure. My truck is only dropped 3 inches in the front with springs and low profile bumpstops. With the caster/camber kit it is maxed out and still has 5 degrees of camber in either tire. Also the caster is slightly off. If you don't get them with that much of a drop...

Alright, forgot to post the numbers last night. It was a long day :black_eye: And I managed to score the BII swaybar thanks to pure luck. It was the only BII in the yard and was pretty much completely stripped when I got to it. But after putting it on (and replacing the rear speed sensor I...

Not really sure why ya'll keep talking about hitting bumps, it's just when I'm on flat ground in a straight line :D. The alignment report didn't show that the back axle was skewed much, I'll post the numbers when I get home. And I triple checked everything when I was putting it together, but...

Didn't think about the sidewalls flexing. Just went outside and rocked it side to side and I get a good bit of travel from just the tires themselves. I may actually go grab my buddies tires now just to see if that's what's causing it. And I just loosened the u bolts that hold on the overloads a...

I replaced them with the ones that djm sends out with the kit Also the ride isn't all that bad, it's just that pull with straight line acceleration that's bugging me the most right now

so there wasn't exactly a measurable difference between the 2 sides in the driveway. I'll head to the junkyard to hopefully pick up a BII sway bar Tuesday and see if that helps. Well I'm sure it will help, but maybe not this particular problem...:icon_thumby: I do have a mustang l/s diff...

I checked everything this morning and it all seems to be pretty tight. i have a bit of play in the driver side axle shaft, but its only 1/16th inch so I doubt that's the issue. I think ill enlist my buddy's help to measure the wheel creep with it stalled up in the driveway. I'll keep yall posted...

Didn't realize there was metal on the other side of that. Eesh, yeah i see what you mean there. So what the general consensus seems to be is that I need to steal the AM wheel combo off of my friend's mustang so I don't need to do metal work. Now to distract him long enough to swap them out...

i was thinking about just moving the inner fender up away from the tire, but i have no idea how it is attached or how i would reattach it at a different distance. the driver side has way too much stuff in the way to get a good look at what that would entail. I've though about taking them off but...

2" DJM springs & flip kit on the inner shackle holes, sits at about a 3/4 drop 235/75/15