Well, I'll keep you guys posted when stuff starts happening. Before I can get started I've gotta get the donor and I need another truck. Hopefully I can get the ball rolling within a couple of months
Fortunately in that regard, I don't think there's enough weight and traction at the rear of these trucks to break anything even if I used a match stick for a drive shaft :icon_rofl:
Plan on using a 2011. I'm gonna try to get a complete donor off copart or something. Will use everything possible to both keep cost down and keep it as simple as possible even if it won't exactly be the cleanest install
Efi I assume? Cause when I was younger I had the same issue with a 4.0 swap into a 94 I used to have. Couldn't get injectors to fire. Learned what was wrong after I got rid of it. But quick search on Google says BMWs use the same type of system with a chip in the key so I imagine it wouldn't be...
If I get a complete donor, I'd imagine I could get the sensor out of the beamer and wire it in the rangers place, then just glue the beamers key behind the dash somewhere. But honestly I have no idea how the bmws PATS works if it's even anything like what I have
So, I'm sure plenty of you have heard of putting a 4bt cummins or a VW TDI in these rangers. I've even seen yanmars, kubotas, John deere, and a 3 cyl reefer engine done. But I've never seen or heard of someone swapping in a 3.0 turbo diesel out of a BMW 335D.
Stock Hp and torque figures paired...
Still has a very slight tremor/stumble at an idle. The D/S head had real bad exhaust valve recession causing a loud tick and cylinder 5 & 6 misfires. I'm sure the P/S side head isn't in much better shape so when I get the time and funds I'm gonna replace it too. Get the right injectors while I'm...
Decided to cross reference my old injectors with my new ones. Truck has Vin code "U" so non flex fuel... well the old injectors cross referenced to 21.1 lb/hr injectors... meaning flex injectors. Put them back in and she purrs like a kitten. Dunno why the heck someone would go through the...
I checked that multiple times, it's what I thought too.
If I mess with unplugging sensors and get it idling right, it idles smoother and better than it ever has before since I've owned it too. Smooth, no odd sounds from tail pipe, and no longer sucks a dollar bill up the tail pipe like it did...
EDIT: This is a 1999 ranger non flex-fuel 3.0
So I had a cylinder 5 and 6 misfire. Narrowed it down to bad valves. After I replaced the head it no longer will idle right. It idles rough at about 400 rpm, sometimes it kinda lopes. If it does idle right, as soon as you put any load on the engine...
OK, so my old 2.9 is quitting on me so I decided to swap a good 4.0 out of a 91 ranger. The tech articles weren't very descriptive on what wires go where so if anyone has experience with this swap please help
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