Contributed By: Louis Schilling

This is the text, and photos for solving the problem of lost turning radius after installing lift spindles on late model 2wd Rangers

You need to clearance either the spindle, or the lower control arm. I don’t suggest you grind the spindle, one reason is it’s hard to get any strength back, so we should clearance the lower arm. You can clearance the arm with a grinder, then weld a plate to the arm to get back some strength back.

Start with a cardboard pattern, like the photo, and transfer the shape to some metal, I used .125″ thick 4130 Chrome-Moly steel plate, but you can use 187″ thick cold rolled mild steel.

Turn the spindle all the way to both the right and left, noting where the spindle hits the lower arm. now you need to grind away the lip that sticks out from the lower arm sides. after grinding, go back with a sander and polish down any grind marks, remember – sharp metal tends to crack.

Now start fitting the doubler plate to the lower arm, this is where we pick up the strength we lost from grinding the lip. After getting a good fit, weld it on, I TIG (Heli-Arc) welded mine, but you can MIG (Wire Weld) yours also. A good muffler shop can usually MIG weld it for you if you have no access to a welder. I welded one pass on one arm, then did one pass on the other arm, this kept the heat down to keep from possibly cooking the lower ball joint.

Paint, and start turning again!

Author

  • Jim Oaks

    As a Ford Ranger enthusiast who enjoys modifying my Ford Rangers for off-road use, I quickly discovered that there wasn’t any websites dedicated to the subject. So in 1999, I created TheRangerStation.com. What started as my own personal desire to help other Ford Ranger owners, has grown into a wealth of online information from numerous contributors. 20-years later, my commitment to the Ford Ranger, and the Ford Ranger community, is as strong as ever.