Sandblasing?

[FlyinRyan]

Hey folks,

I've got a leak in my '98 B2500 stock steel rim. Spoke with a welder about fixing it but the leak is too deep in the rim to get a solid bead on. He reccomended i strip the rust off (theres a lot of it) and lay some JB Weld or fibreglass on it.

I've been using a wire wheel and a drill to strip the surface rust off the rim but I can't get to the leak spot. In the area of the leak the rust is coming off in strips, almost like shale.

I've picked up a cheap sandblasting gun and some media to hook up to my air compressor. What do I need for a setup? I know this stuff can cause damage...

Thanks

 

[Captain Ledd]

If it's a stock steel rim, I'd just look for another set. Junkyards around here run less than $20 a rim. And that one sounds pretty far gone to bother saving. Plenty of newer cheap steel rims on OEM's as well. Shoot, I think a set of NEW steel wagons 15" with a 5x4.5 pattern are $45-$50.

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

^ im with captain ledd on this one, if its that far gone just get another one - new Cragar soft 8s were $45 each so im sure the JY will have some stock wheels for cheap or possibly even another member in your area where ever that is?

 

[Grey_04]

i have to agree on getting newer rims. hell if you were close I'd give you a set..

 

[FlyinRyan]

Thanks guys,

I'll get some pictures and put them up...

 

[Original_Ranger84]

Yeah Definately new rims, maybe even splurg and get some fancy alloys off CL or something? The most expensive part is going to be the mounting and balancing.

 

[FlyinRyan]

Can anyone answer the question?

What do I need to sandblast?

 

[Captain Ledd]

Can anyone answer the question?

What do I need to sandblast?

*sigh* Fair enough. But one last warning that you are wasting your time, money, and jeopardizing your and everyone else around your-selfs' safety.

Your rims are rusted to the point they have holes in them.

Even IF you successfully manage to weld the leaky spot, what are you welding it to? more paper thin metal waiting to break? Welds are only as strong as the metal surrounding it.

This is not just about you saving a few pennies, or "at least I'll end up with a sandblasting rig afterwards". No, you are not just betting with your own safety you're messing with the poor person driving next to you, or in the on-comming lane. Because your rim is rusted to where it can break off if given a good enough bump.

There is no fix for this rim.

IT IS DANGEROUS.

Buy another one.

There is not a picture in the world that can de-bunk decades, trillions of dollars, and millions of very smart people, of welding and metallurgy and strength/strain testing.



So, anyways.

You'll need a blasting gun. some draw up through a hose (most common kind) and others will have a hopper. The hose one is much more convenient.

You need an air compressor. There is a thing called CFM (cubic feet per minute), a blasting gun will use alot. The rating on the compressor is a continuous rating, it'll supply enough CFM to the gun regardless. But if you want to continually sandblast you need a compressor that's rated for more CFM than the gun, or at least as much. Otherwise you'll just have to stop and wait for the compressor to charge up again.

You'll need blasting media. I've used play sand (I don't recommend, but it works), but there are lots of types. Give this page a read: http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/blasting-media.htm

You're also gonna need to know about silicosis, which gives you all kinds of lung problems and cancer if your not careful. Play sand can have lots of silicon in it.

Respirator. Get the highest rating possible. Full face if possible as well. Those crappy white elastic band one's ain't gonna cut it.

Heavy duty gloves. I don't recommend sand blasting your hands.

Bucket for holding the media.

A large tarp. That'll catch most of the media you use if you don't have a cabinet, dump it back into the bucket afterwards. Also helps f you stay out of the wind.

That's pretty much it, it's really simple actually. Point and shoot. Practice on some rusty pieces before doing the important work though, just to get the feel for it. It won't take long.

I got a gun and hose set from the local TSC for something like $20-$30. It's kinda crappy, but it does the job.

 

[Mac]

I've got a small cabinet blast booth for small parts, kind of contains the dust. For the larger stuff, I have one that siphons the media out of a 5 gal bucket. Best media I have found for steel goes under several names but its left over furnace slag. Sometimes called "Black Blast". Works 2-3 times faster/better than regular blasting sand. Play sand is not graded and can plug the nozzel. As said, lots of precautions to take for your protection and health.
Dave of the Nord

 

[FlyinRyan]

Thanks everyone,

I understand the risks and am looking at pricing up new rims now. Junkyards are great but in my neck of the woods rust is a HUGE issue - 3 Years rust buildup everywhere else = 6 months here

Thanks for the info!

 

[Snoranger]

I'm with everyone else, buy a new wheel.


BUT, Why cant you get to the area that needs to be welded? Take the tire off and weld it from the inside. There shouldnt be anywhere you cant get to.

 

[Stxrangerbumper]

 

[4.0B2]

what about your spare rim?

why not order one steelie for now? and then the rest when you get the money.

its dangerous man.. i'm not trying to repeat what they say but... and actually if rust is that big of an issue- find some explorer rims that are aluminum. either the 5 spoke ones or the bullet hole ones.. they won't rust!

 

[FlyinRyan]

Got Pics!
First two are the steelie - Not the chunks of rust.
The ones after are the new alloy I got off of a '94. Needs a lot of cleaning