New to me '99 Ranger, 2.5, 5spd, reg cab. looking for your COLLECTIVE WISDOM and a path forward please.

[JBeechcraft]

Hey folks! Quite some time ago I purchased a 1999 Ranger 2.5, with a 5 speed manual regular cab. The 2.5 and the 5 speed was the winning combination and the price of $400 sealed the deal. I bought it and put it in the back yard til I could get to it and now is that time. It has 198K on the clock and I know NOTHING about it since the previous owner resides in an unknown location. No complaints. Body is straight and I'm going to use it as a daily. Before I purchased it, I "tried" to start it and it sounded like there was a compression issue. The block is fine and yesterday, I did a dry compression test: 1) 125; 2) 55; 3) 125; 4) 0! Yikes. Tomorrow, I'll drop some oil in the chambers and see if any of those values change. It appears as though this is a bone stock and completely unaltered truck (other than the heavy metal skull shifter knob!). I thought it may have jumped a tooth on the timing but all the diamonds, triangles and what not lined up perfectly on top dead center. There are few signs of any glaring maintenance things. The oil filter is low budget but the oil is very nice. No milkshake and super clean. Ignition wires look original and it's possible that the plugs and even the timing belt may be factory as I see no signs of anyone having done anything to this. When I pulled the valve cover off, I was AMAZED at how clean all the surfaces were. Not shiny new like a new head clean but absolutely zero sludge. Metal surfaces are dark brown, but sludge free. Camshaft looks pretty darn good so I'm encouraged. I have a few more items before I actually get the head free and out to look at the head gasket as I suspect that the head gasket is blown, or, there is some valve seat recession going on. I would have been a bit more decisive about a head gasket being blown if the low compression values were side by side pistons, not a #2 and #4 low compression situation like this. I'm wondering if you folks have better luck taking the head and having it rebuilt in a good machine shop or just buy a new one from Clearwater Heads here in Florida. I'm also wondering if the collective wisdom indicates that this is more of a head issue than a lower end (rings) kind of thing. Do Rangers typically go 198K miles and need only a head rebuild, or are they pretty much toast top and bottom at 198k? I know maintenance is the best predictive indicator, but I don't have any information on prior history. The only thing that guides me to head gasket is the 3-way water valve in the passenger side that seems to go to the heater core. One of the nipples is broken off and it's got a bit of the old orangey water overheated appearance at the break, however, there's no glaring signs of an over heat situation like orangey stains all across the hood, motor and firewall kind of thing. I guess if the bottom end is gone, I'll just pull it and do new bearings, pistons, and whatever else work needs to be done. If that happens, I'll drop the transmission and do the clutch as well.

Looking for some direction knowing what you now now (which is what I now know) and some advice as to what most think is the best path forward. I thank any and all of you for your time, wisdom and experience in advance!!!

 

[Rick W]

I don’t know anything about the 2.5 specifically, but you’re thinking seems sound to me.

Before I started taking the engine apart, I would pull the spark plugs out or even just disconnect the coil, and crank the engine to get the oil to circulate everywhere and see what happens to the compression. If that doesn’t bring the compression up, then I would put oil in the spark plug holes to see if that makes a difference. But yanking the head and just diving in is probably the closest distance between the two points.