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Manual hubs vs Auto hubs

Auto Locking Hubs or Manual Locking Hubs

  • Automatic

    Votes: 2 6.3%
  • Manual

    Votes: 30 93.8%

  • Total voters
    32

TIB has more ideal geometry than TTB because it doesn't have 4wd components getting in the way. The pivot points are placed differently and the beams are longer.

Most of the racing trucks are TIB, few seem to want to drag around the extra weight of the 4wd combined with its stubbier beams.

Just because they do it for Baja stuff doesn't mean it is the end all perfect suspension for the rest of the world. They go offroad, I go offroad... that is about where the simularities stop. I don't need something setup like a Formula 1 car to go on the highway either.

You do have be getting fairly serious before the SLA becomes much of an issue, I wouldn't have an issue doing what I do with my basically stock Ranger with a SLA truck (with live front axle). But the TTB really wakes up with a suspension lift while the SLA just kinda sneaks along hoping you don't realize how many thousands of dollars you wasted to get the same performance as a bodylift.

Sure the bearings are cheaper... but the newest TTB/TIB Ranger is 16 years old and growing. Unless you plan on sticking with 2wd Super Duties TIB/TTB are a dying breed. I have really noticed that over the past few years they are really thinning in JY's around me.
 
Either suspension will do on a light truck as far as strenght. I have TTB 4x4s, TIB 2wds, SLA 4x4s, and SLA 2wds.

As far as flex TIB is by far better than SLA with TTB being not far behind TIB. There is no swing radius with SLA its just up and down in a line.

As far as the 4x4s I will never even bother lifting my 1999 with SLA because its almost pointless comparred to what I can do with my TTB 4x4s. Cost wise one is way more practical then the other. A big reason why you dont see TTB or TIB Rangers with body lifts, but every SLA that wants to fit tires has a body lift vs suspension lift and its because of cost period. I myself much prefer TTB/TIB anyway. I only have the other model years because I like to try out every option so I know just what I like. I have/had almost every combination Ranger from 1993 on. As for durability, better build quality, and cost 1995-1997 are hard to beat with any other years/designs.

Getting back on topic manual hubs are by far better when you need to count on them vs taking a shot in the dark with them auto hubs wether it be TTB or SLA. Not sure why live axle was even mentioned in this debate?
 
When I said I like SLA suspension better, I probably should've mentioned that I never go off-roading. For my daily driving highway commute, I prefer SLA. I really don't care about off-road performance, but TTB is definitely better off-road.
 
Was working offroad today and my driver's side auto hub popped and banged something fierce. If finally did engage. Never happened up until now, guess what...I just ordered Warn Jeep hubs today from James Oaks. Now I'll have to find a manual transfer case to get rid of that POS auto one. Tired of hoping/praying/ sacraficing a goat to the 4X4 gods to get the front end to pull.:icon_rofl:
 
As far as SLA vs TTB: I like SLA. The ride quality and handling are better, aligning it is easier.

I don't get what is so awful about aligning the TTB. I would much rather deal with the camber/caster slugs than with those got dang UCA eccentrics.
 
The geometry is the same on both. The different placement of the pivots on a 4WD vs. 2WD is precisely to maintain said geometry.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/sfr4x4/ttbsymetry.jpg

TIB doesn't have to dodge, duck, dip, dive and dodge to keep the front diff and axleshafts in line with each other and from hitting other things. Just a little bit of a curve to miss the other beam.

TIB also doesn't place the PS pivot bracket directly under the drain plug on a dual sump 5.0 oil pan. :D

I don't get what is so awful about aligning the TTB. I would much rather deal with the camber/caster slugs than with those got dang UCA eccentrics.

They are not as common so people get baffled by them. I don't think I ever did convice the shop that put my exhaust on that the front differential and driveshaft move with the suspension. The driveshaft rubbed on the LH exhaust pipe, he swore it had close to two inches of clearance when I couldn't get my pinky crammed between the two. The simple answer he couldn't grasp is that with his frame hoist the suspension sagged...
 
They are not as common so people get baffled by them. I don't think I ever did convice the shop that put my exhaust on that the front differential and driveshaft move with the suspension. The driveshaft rubbed on the LH exhaust pipe, he swore it had close to two inches of clearance when I couldn't get my pinky crammed between the two. The simple answer he couldn't grasp is that with his frame hoist the suspension sagged...

^^This. It's not that they're necessarily harder to align than SLA, it's that there's a much bigger chance the tech doesn't know how to align it properly. SLA is way more common and and it's much more likely the tech knows how to align it.
 
TIB doesn't have to dodge, duck, dip, dive and dodge to keep the front diff and axleshafts in line with each other and from hitting other things. Just a little bit of a curve to miss the other beam.

TIB also doesn't place the PS pivot bracket directly under the drain plug on a dual sump 5.0 oil pan. :D

So what does all of that have to do with anything (other than possibly making some curse words fly when you have to do an oil change on your non-factory engine)?

The beams could squiggle back & forth all the way from bumper to rear axle and nothing would be any different. Only thing that matters here is where the straight line that is the suspension's pivoting axis is located (I'm guessing you didn't bother to click on the link I provided).
 
manual hubs all the way! i had autos stock, but after ne time of them not working was enough, and now i have 2wd low....for backing trailers and coming up out of a boat ramp. most of the time you know you might need 4wd, just lock 'em in and hit the button (or pull the lever) when needed. if theres snow on the ground, the front axle stays locked. ive only ever broke 1 manual hub, and that was my fault, since i could only get a replacement as a "set", i now have a spare. i prefer the ttb axle, had no issues aligning it, you just have to know what you are doing. i also preder the older steering box setup vs the newer power rack design.
 

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