Grinding issues after rebuild.


MADMODDER

10+ Year Member

⭐Supporting Member
ASE Certified Tech
TRS 20th Anniversary
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Sep 29, 2015
Messages
108
Points
1,601
City
Kennesaw
State - Country
GA - USA
Vehicle Year
2010
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
4WD
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
Rebuild thread found here.


During my rebuild I inspected all of my components and got new bearings, seals, shift bushings and shims all from a highly recommended shop in the PSW. Transmission Exchange, I believe it was. The gentleman that helped was amazing. My syncros, gear teeth, forks, dogs, ect, all looked great.

About a month ago, my pedal dropped to the floor and would not return. Master cylinder went bad, no big deal. Repalced it with a new, bench bled, OEM piece and everything was good as gold. For about 2 weeks. Then my trans started grinding going into 3rd. Roughly 10k on the rebuild and I'm not leaking any fluids and no loose hardware.

I did replace my trans mount while I was in there but have yet to replace my engine mounts. I know unevenly worn mounts can cause shifting issues in European cars (I'm a euro tech) but I have not found this to be the same with domestic models. Admittedly, I do have a lack of domestic experience.

I've also found a few online sources saying when they encountered this, they would drain the ATF and replace it with a 50/50 split of Redline lightweight Shockproof gear oil and MTL or MT90.
Is there any truth to this?

I do have a brake flush machine that pushes and pulls fluid. I will be doing that just to see if it helps.

Thanks in advance.
 
They are pretty particular about atf or similar.
 
They are pretty particular about atf or similar.
Thats all I've been told and found through my research on here.

So I thought it was totally backwards. But results are results.
 
Aftermarket synchros aren't the same as factory no matter where you get them, my friend that does transmissions says he tries to avoid changing them if they aren't a huge problem beforehand... chances are that synchro is a little looser than it should be and isn't speeding the collar up fast enough... if it's just a click and not a hard grind I don't know what you could do about it unless you want to get in there and replace one synchro... The only other thing is if there's some air in the system and it's not disengaging completely...

The shifting isn't tied to any bushings other than the ones at the pivot in the transmission, as long as the shifter is in the middle of the hole in the floor you should be fine there.
 

Sponsored Ad

TRS Events & Gatherings

Latest posts

Featured Rangers

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

TRS Latest Video

Official TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Ranger Sponsors


Product Suggestions

Back
Top