Driveshaft replacement

[derekj]

What are my options for replacing my cv style rear drive shaft with something stronger? I have a 2" lift in the back.

Derek

 

[MAKG]

II believe your only option is an aftermarket driveshaft. Virtually all of them have U-joints.

The only year Bronco IIs that had U-joint driveshafts was 1984. And I believe they are ALL too short for a 1988 model. If you can find one with an A4LD, it will be the same length, but I don't think those existed before 1985. All Ranger rear driveshafts from any year are too long for your application.

Honestly, the thing that kills CV shafts with a lift in the back of a Bronco II is bottoming the driveshaft, either in extension or compression. Adjusting the pinion angle (which is almost always necessary on a Bronco II due to the short wheelbase) changes the distance between the rear end and transfer case. If you have to force the driveshaft in, its length is wrong. If it's too short, you can add a spacer.

 

[bdeuce]

you can do what i did and have one made. this is not the affordable route, but i have a brand new oversized double cardan driveshaft with three year warranty, and 6" slip yoke (lift potential). this was aboot $600 canadian. however, you can get the same style (double cardan) shaft from the front shaft of a gen1 91-94 exploder. it will have to be shortened and balanced, but i was quoted $150 to cut and balance. any competant machine shop should be able to handle this.

Napa in the states also carries new ones, a little cheaper, but hella easy to install - they're made for the b2 as replacemants.


Mine that i had made - look at the difference in the old cv shaft thickness, compared to the 3 inch tube and beefy joints!!

this one is availiable from NAPA (u.s.a. only, part numbers disappear at the border?!?!). NAPA NPR # 12833 thru 87

this is also availiable from NAPA NPR # 12823 88 and later

with any driveline swap, you want measurements, man. my springs are sagging something fierce (until this weekend), so i ordered mine with only 3/4 inch slip yoke room. in theory, if i bottom out the bumpstop, i have 1/4 inch of slip room to go before i need a new t-case. i wouldn't advise doing this everytime, but like i said, springs sagging, lifting planned.

hope this helps.

nate

 

[Natedog]

you can do what i did and have one made. this is not the affordable route, but i have a brand new oversized double cardan driveshaft with three year warranty, and 6" slip yoke (lift potential). this was aboot $600 canadian. however, you can get the same style (double cardan) shaft from the front shaft of a gen1 91-94 exploder. it will have to be shortened and balanced, but i was quoted $150 to cut and balance. any competant machine shop should be able to handle this.

Napa in the states also carries new ones, a little cheaper, but hella easy to install - they're made for the b2 as replacemants...

Nice lookin driveshaft, the correct way to do it!

 

[baddis]

to have a machine shop shorten and balance a shaft here is $25 now where you get into the cost here is if you need a longer one

 

[bdeuce]

spensive here - only one machine shop that can do it. someone told them that like a fool, and now they charge ridiculous prices to work on drivelines.

you just can't beat a made to fit part.

 

[bdeuce]

now what's cuter than a 24 pound kitten and a driveline?