1987 Ranger Rear Axle Upgrade

[Hitchner2009]

So im looking at swapping in a 8.8 rear axle on the old ranger. Which rear axles will be a straight pull the old one and bolt the new one right in place. I have the 4.0 installed on my truck, now looking for some better traction and power for offroading purposes and everyday driving. I want a limited slip over a locker, because lockers like to disengage too quickly sometimes. LSD will be better for me overall. I want it too be a straight bolt in with very very little modification or NONE if possible.

 

[Mac]

Just about any Ranger 8.8 will bolt in and mount to the springs. Problem comes in adapting the driveshaft you have to it. Several variations of flanges and how to deal with mis-match. There are conversion u-joints and different rear flanges. Should be covered up top in the tech library of the choices.
Dave

 

[4x4junkie]

'93-'09 8.8s are 2" wider track width than '90-'92 8.8s. This difference is outboard of the leaf spring mounts though so yeah, any one of them should bolt up.

If you also have a 4.0L trans, easiest option for driveshaft fitment is probably to find a shaft from a '90-'97 truck if you have a Reg-cab (same bed length as yours), or '98-'11 if yours is Supercab. This should fit right in and will give you the larger 1310-series u-joints as well (1330-series for Supercab). If you're 2WD, then you'll need a driveshaft that is specific to an auto or manual trans, whichever one it is you have.

 

[Hitchner2009]

i have the 87's fm145. the only thing thats from a newer truck is the engine which was from a 1992 ranger. my truck is a supercab with 4x4

 

[4x4junkie]

Having the shorter FM145 complicates things somewhat (I'm not aware of a 1210-size large-pattern flange or 1210-1310 conversion u-joint available).

The FM145 is usually a short-timer behind a 4.0L, I would recommend swapping to a M5OD if you can and then source your driveshaft as outlined above ('98-'11 Supercabs).
If that's not feasible then your options are: Have a new driveshaft of the right length made at a driveline shop to fit between your 8.8's flange and your t-case flange (best, strongest option giving you the bigger u-joints), or redrill the 8.8" pinion flange to accept the smaller bolt pattern of your existing driveshaft (cheapest option, but you'll still have your '87's small 1210 u-joints).