Haven't updated thread in a while.
Made a list of wants for the winter.
Got a few of them done, with the BIG one being the converter. Well, the stars aligned and I managed to get it purchased! $1500 and change later....
I went with an FTI triple disc in 3000-3200 stall. I was talking with...
If you spend some time looking around, there really isn't a solid one-size-fits-all on where to put it. It's all over the map, and varies depending on the use case, suspension, traction, etc...
After reading way too much, I chose 3 degrees down from the transmission. It works properly until...
I cut them off and welded on new ones.
I still didn't get it right though, looks like I'm going to playing the shim game. I put the diff at -3° from the trans and it still isn't enough.
I most definitely bounce off the frame way more than I'd like.
Pic for reference; that's ride height, no changes other than the explorer axle. No shackles, no spacers, stock springs, etc..
https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/my-turbod-5-0ld-4-5-dropped-2000-ranger.200954/
My truck sounds very similar to yours. Explorer 5.0, explorer 8.8, djm 5/4 drop. Technically you don't need the djm rear kit with an explorer axle.
Definitely need c-notch in the rear as...
You can buy all that with money. You gain talent by doing. (I appreciate you saying I have talent though, cuz like... I really don't, lol )
You'd be surprised at how little I have into this
Yes, I have a 2 car garage that this lives in (I've built plenty of junk in my driveway though). Yes...
FYI this is what I ended up doing. Thanks.
I was going to just buy some custom AN style brake hoses until I saw the driver's side is all 1 piece.. Somehow that was more than I really wanted to spend, lol.
NOW I'm out of fuel.
17.7 psi, 99.8% duty cycle, and dropping fuel pressure. I guess I have to turn it down 😥
bottom graph, blue line is fuel pressure, should be rising, not falling. Still managed to maintain 12.2 afr (gas scale), commanding 12.0.
That's probably a lil spicy for a stock...
Forum is playing games with me tonight. I can't get the files to post as anything in this post.
Anyways, everything fits great. I have about 1" to the leaves and the wheel well. Front of the tire is basically flush with the wheel arch flange.
I hate lug nuts.
So that's a 15x10 with a 7.5...
I'd say I'm far more worried about the rod bolt's ability to keep the cap attached than the crank.
6k rpm, I wouldn't even give it a second thought. At 6500+ a rod bolt upgrade would make a lot of sense (required), and by then you should probably be doing pistons and rods as well anyways.
I ordered these wheels for the rear on a 15x10, 7.5"BS/51mm offset, and will be ordering some 275/50/15 nitto 555R2s for them (26" tall). The tires all seem to be on backorder though.
Calculators say this should suck the rim in 7mm from what I have now, which are the stockers that measure 15x7...
With the explorer 8.8 and disc brakes, does anyone know if the brake hose can be clocked differently? It's been a while since I put this together, but I seem to remember some reason they had to be put on this way.
I'm looking to buy 10" wide rims and they're going to occupy the same real estate.
Yea it was working pretty good. Going over the logs today, I really don't build shit for boost in 1st gear. It's positive pressure by ~2800rpm, but it doesn't peak until right before it shifts at 6300rpm/~40mph, then all of 2nd gear is 12psi. End of the ride was at the top of 2nd, and it still...
Went a car show last night that was doing 330ft drags. Had an absolute blast. I still haven't bought tires, and just roasted them for the entire 330ft. My buddy that went with me, his stuff wasn't running great so he let me borrow his 275 drag radials. Holy game changer!
I was still spinning up...
FYI, it F'N RIPS!
Figured out the boost controller. First run out hit boost safety at 18psi. I turned it down.
These vids are at 12psi. And side note, neither of these are WOT. I actually don't go over 80%tps cuz I'm a little scared of it right now LOL...
From Rick when I had the same question -
"The one with the dot on the under side of the plate is the passenger side."
It kinda looks like a little weld ball. It'd be nice if this was in the instructions.
If it's the one I am thinking it is, the charge wire is in that plug. What happens is that it makes a poor connection over time, which causes the plug to get hot, which causes a worse connection, which causes more heat... And eventually it starts on fire. This is a very well documented issue...
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