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I had ran new grounds to the block, body and frame. Replaced the charge wire from alternator. Checked fuel pressure. Replaced the alternator 3 times with used ones I had laying around. The next test I was going to try was to unhook the alternator and put the big car charger on it to see if it...

Life saver. Thank you. Last time my distributor took a dump on my 93 3.0 I replaced the tfi with an autozone one. A few weeks later my truck started misfiring under high electric load. Unhook the alt it ran fine. It cost me a new battery and alternator before I saw your post. But it finally runs

Well the alternator was the issue somehow. The 10si worked but couldn't maintain a charge with the cooling fan on. I didn't want to give up on not buying parts so I managed to get a chevy cs130 I found in the barn on there and it's working good.

Seems like it's a bad alternator. Seemed to run fine with it unhooked. I put a 10si I had laying around on it and I'm going to take a long drive tomorrow to see how it goes.

Maybe it's not a ground issue the electric fan grounds right to the battery runs bad when it's on

Drops to 14 if i turn electric fan and head lights and blower on

I show 14.4 at battery and 13.9 at cigarette lighter

My 1993 ranger runs really bad when the head lights or blower motor are on. I've added a body ground and a engine ground with no change. Any ideas?

If it sounds like you're skidding the toe is probably way out of alignment.

Personal opinion keep the c6. I don't really like the c4 and c5 but they would do. Find a different tcase. In either situation an early bronco dana 20 can be adapted but would be costly and hard to find. Anyone know if a 205 will clear the frame? Those are easy to come by for ford and would...

Hit a snag with the new engine. Oil Pan bolt pattern is different. I'm planning on using the Taurus oil pan anyhow but a gasket is proving to be a challenge. Parts stores in town can't get it. Amazon has it but it's a few days out. I didn't know they ever changed the pattern.

Very cool. The 8.8 swap will be a good surprise. My brother is on deployment with the national guard hoping to have his ranger's 4x4 working before he gets back just waiting for the weather to improve.

More updates coming soon. Engine is starting to go at 340000 miles. Valve sticks when it gets warm. Bought a 3.0 from a 92 tempo with 90k on it but the junk yard couldn't find it. Ended up with one from a 86 Taurus with 74k miles. $165 changing head gaskets, timing cover gaskets and oil pan...

Looks like ford still makes the hall sensor. But Turns out that's not what went bad this time. Motor is burning oil bad now. 250 miles since oil change 1 qt low. I think it's foaling the plugs. It's huffing oil out the intake. 340000 miles I think it's giving up. Bought a used motor with...

I've had lots of problems with the hall sensor in my 1993 ranger distributor. Replaced the distributor with a new one from autozone last jl January. Went bad this January again. It's lifetime warranty but a pain to change. Anyhow it's febuary now and it's bad again. Does anyone make a higher...

Nope just shortened the rod 1/8 inch then threaded it all the way in. Other than that it's plug and play. No need to swap lines around.

After my test drive yesterday I determined the master cylinder was to small. I read a post on Midwestnomads about a project lone ranger doing a swap out of a 99 ram 4x4 gas. Lucky me in parting out a 99 ram! followed the inductions in his post its pretty much a direct swap just have to shorten...

And finally a picture of the truck as it sits now. Tires are just whatever 35s i had around hopefully be getting new ones soonish

Here is the picture of the axle in the truck. As you can see the shocks don't match. Yes I got a good price on them and yes I'm that cheap. The brakes are 94 4wd ram rotors with 89 dodge d150 calipers and pads.

Here is the locker and gears I bought used as well has the nodular third member required for the racing locker's larger bearings.