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302 engine mounting options


cckc135r

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2008
Messages
72
City
Derby KS
Vehicle Year
1985
Transmission
Manual
I've been thinking of some options about how to mount the 302 in my 88 2WD Ranger. I've seen quite a few manufacturers available to get engine mounts. My latest line of thought has been on using an engine mount plate. I've used these in the past on a brand X (S-10) and it freed up a lot of room for headers and also gave more options to move the engine forward and back.

So that's why I'm here to ask you guys, 1. to see if any of you have done this and how it worked out for you, and 2. to see if it's really a feasible option. It worked very well in the brand X truck so I thought I'd get everyones take with using one on the Ranger.

Thanks in advance for any information provided.:icon_thumby:
 
Yes, its very feasible. Give me some time - I'll send you some links to other posts.

Late '80s 5.0L Convertible Mustang Mounts work quite well. Do some searching on "Vert Mounts".
 
I knew about the vert mounts from previous posts here, however, my plan would eliminate engine side mounts all together and just run one 3/8" thick piece of aluminum plate that goes from either side of the frame rails and ties in with a metal tab and a bolt and nut going through it. I've seen the plates at jegs and summit that are already pre-cut for about $110. Just a thought I've been kicking around. I've got nothing but time on it and with turd 2.9 with toasted engine bearings it's not really going any where fast. Any more input would be great and as always thanks in advance.
 
Wouldn't that be overkill? Unless you are building serious horsepower anyway.
 
SuperDave,

Yes, it would probably be a lot of overkill, however, the thought behind it is not the overkill part but rather the almost infinate up/down and fore/aft movement to place the engine in the right location. The overkill part I get from my Dad who was always over building things. This would also allow for any future upgrades as I'm more drag racing oriented and have a daily driver. This option also ties the engine into the frame much better than using a torque strap or torque strut rod. Only thing is to do this you should use something like an energy suspension trans mount instead of the moroso solid mount. Learned a hard lesson by going solid on both once before. The S-10 I had tweaked the frame to the point that it cracked the TH350 casing.

Again, this is just the ideas that I kick around while I'm bench racing at home. I will say thanks to all of you who have given input to this idea as that is where it is right now, just an idea. I was also just trying to see is anyone here has ever used one on their engine swaps.
 
OK now it makes sense. Hey if you want to go REALLY overkill I've got a 429 and C-6 that I need to get rid of.
 
all i did was reuse my 2.9 mounts and i got a piece of 1/4 steel (3/8 would probably be a lot better) drilled a few holes and cut off the excess, works great.

this is basically what i did, http://therangerstation.com/tech_library/diagrams/motormount.gif
but the dowel pin hole is different for either side.

and the best way to mount these up is to use a mock block, i had another 302 that was completely bare just put bare heads on and it was a lot easier to position it where i wanted it, and it also really helps to have the bellhousing on if you dont have a body lift.
 
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to jonsranger

i bought those mount plates i got my 302 in but the driver mounts right up but it looks like the dowel pin on the pass mount meets with the bigger hole on the engine cradle and the stud is met up with a smaller hole do i just bore it out and the alingment of the engine should be right >? thanks
 
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i bought those mount plates - driver mounts right up - dowel pin on pass mount meets big hole on cradle and stud meets smaller hole... ...
What mount plates are you talking about? What brand? Who did you buy them from?
Are you refering to the engine mounts themselves? - or a plate that fits atop of the mounts?
Pics would help.
Using the 4.0L engine mounts, if memory serves me correctly, I removed an alignment dowel. Its been awhile.
 
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