Clutch job on 2006 ranger, mechanic scam?

[lowspeedpursuit]

Only the 2wd had a slip in the rear, the 4x4 were flange/flange

Yeah, but aren't the tcase- and axle-end flanges different sizes? Even if the larger axle companion flange is double-drilled, the tcase isn't.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Yeah, but aren't the tcase- and axle-end flanges different sizes? Even if the larger axle companion flange is double-drilled, the tcase isn't.

Ehh, not exactly. Some trucks the flanges are the same, some they are not. I haven’t found what determines the difference. There seems to be two common u-joint sizes and two common flange patterns for each. I’ve had to mix-n-match a few times.

 

[7aawilson]

Yeah, but aren't the tcase- and axle-end flanges different sizes? Even if the larger axle companion flange is double-drilled, the tcase isn't.

No they both bolt on to each other just fine, it's just about where the slip yoke sits, id rather have it up by the transfer case where it's protected instead of having it sit right in front of my diff where it's exposed, rather not have that rubber boot tearing from a rock on a trail.

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

Okay, it looks like the newer driveshafts are just totally different from what I'm used to. In addition to having different-sized flanges, mine has a CV at one end (opposite the slip joint). Obviously you want that at the tcase, which puts the slip joint at the bottom.

I guess I'm a little less critical of that mistake than the rest of what's going on.

 

[Curious Hound]

Okay, it looks like the newer driveshafts are just totally different from what I'm used to. In addition to having different-sized flanges, mine has a CV at one end (opposite the slip joint). Obviously you want that at the tcase, which puts the slip joint at the bottom.

I guess I'm a little less critical of that mistake than the rest of what's going on.

My 93 has a "double cardan" joint at the upper end and the slip joint near the differential. I haven't seen one with a CV joint, yet. And, yes, that exposes the boot to abuse. Oh, well.

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

Yeah I was talking about the double-cardan. My bad, that was a stupid way to say it.

 

[SenorNoob]

My 93 has a "double cardan" joint at the upper end and the slip joint near the differential. I haven't seen one with a CV joint, yet. And, yes, that exposes the boot to abuse. Oh, well.View attachment 145101View attachment 145102

That must be a single cab thing. Weird. Mine has the double-cardan and the slip joint up front.

 

[SenorNoob]

Afterthought, it does have the same size flange and u-joint on both ends. Who knows if it's right. I didn't even see the truck it came from. Was on the shelf at the junkyard.

 

[Li'l Work Truck]

I was quoted "no more than $3,000" on a complete transmission rebuild, including clutch replacement and master & slave replacement for my M5OD-1. $3,100 for a clutch replacement without using all the parts is a huge red flag for me. These trucks aren't that difficult to work on compared to modern trucks, and while I haven't pulled my own transmission out, I've seen the videos online and posts here... I think you should go back and get an itemized list so you can take it to an attorney, or maybe see if you can address it in small claims court. PA recording laws say you must get the permission of the other party to record them unless you're in an area where there is no expectation of privacy, such as his parking lot.

 

[7aawilson]

I was quoted "no more than $3,000" on a complete transmission rebuild, including clutch replacement and master & slave replacement for my M5OD-1. $3,100 for a clutch replacement without using all the parts is a huge red flag for me. These trucks aren't that difficult to work on compared to modern trucks, and while I haven't pulled my own transmission out, I've seen the videos online and posts here... I think you should go back and get an itemized list so you can take it to an attorney, or maybe see if you can address it in small claims court. PA recording laws say you must get the permission of the other party to record them unless you're in an area where there is no expectation of privacy, such as his parking lot.

He did do pretty much a full overhaul, the master, slave, lines, disc, and pressure plate, so i do see how it would be more expensive than average, but my worries are that he decided to reuse just the simple little pilot bearing, and the fact that it took him 10.5 hours, keep in mind, that day he only had the truck for 11 hours, meaning that he took a 30 minute lunch break and that's literally the only thing he did that day and didn't touch a single other vehicle

 

[7aawilson]

Okay, it looks like the newer driveshafts are just totally different from what I'm used to. In addition to having different-sized flanges, mine has a CV at one end (opposite the slip joint). Obviously you want that at the tcase, which puts the slip joint at the bottom.

I guess I'm a little less critical of that mistake than the rest of what's going on.

Mine is an aluminum rear driveshaft, no cv joints, just u joints on either end, but one end also has a boot where the slip is, and in my mind anyone with logic would place that towards the front where it tucks up nicely under a crossmember and is shielded from water/debris, not right in front of the diff where it's going to get pelted with road debris. It's an extended cab model so idk what the standard cabs look like, I know my front driveshaft is steel but the rears aluminum, probably weight savings? The whole unit weighs about 20-30lbs so I assume a steel one would be heavier

 

[ShyTown]

I did the same job myself last summer after getting quoted $1200 for the labor (I already had all the parts).

 

[pentode]

He did do pretty much a full overhaul, the master, slave, lines, disc, and pressure plate, so i do see how it would be more expensive than average, but my worries are that he decided to reuse just the simple little pilot bearing, and the fact that it took him 10.5 hours, keep in mind, that day he only had the truck for 11 hours, meaning that he took a 30 minute lunch break and that's literally the only thing he did that day and didn't touch a single other vehicle

I never like to add friction to mechanic relationships and I'm afraid I might be about to do that. 10.5 hours sounds a lot like book time on that job. I don't have my resources at the moment, anyone happen to know what the book time is? As others have mentioned, a decent mechanic should really be able to do all of that in half that time.

Thing is, Rockauto has the whole enchilada kit, hydraulics and all, for about $350. A garage is generally going to want to double whatever their parts cost is. I guess most garages bill at more than $100/hr now, but at that rate you're talking just over a grand in labor even at 10.5 hours. The $1200 mentioned above sounds very in the ballpark for what makes sense for a garage to charge.

I figure once you've paid, there's not much point in fighting it unless you're prepared for things to get really ugly. Personally, I'd be looking for another garage, or better yet, spend the money on tools next time and do it yourself.

 

[7aawilson]

I never like to add friction to mechanic relationships and I'm afraid I might be about to do that. 10.5 hours sounds a lot like book time on that job. I don't have my resources at the moment, anyone happen to know what the book time is? As others have mentioned, a decent mechanic should really be able to do all of that in half that time.

Thing is, Rockauto has the whole enchilada kit, hydraulics and all, for about $350. A garage is generally going to want to double whatever their parts cost is. I guess most garages bill at more than $100/hr now, but at that rate you're talking just over a grand in labor even at 10.5 hours. The $1200 mentioned above sounds very in the ballpark for what makes sense for a garage to charge.

I figure once you've paid, there's not much point in fighting it unless you're prepared for things to get really ugly. Personally, I'd be looking for another garage, or better yet, spend the money on tools next time and do it yourself.

He billed $205 an hour so that's where most of the cost is, i agree with you that it's not really worth fighting, but if i had known it would have been that expensive i would have bought a transmission jack and done it in my driveway, learned my lesson for next time. I do believe the book time sits around 6-8 hours. I don't think I'm going to this guy anymore, but next time I'm definitely doing it myself, not worth that much in labor. I've been going to this guy for a while but tbh I feel like there's always something I'm having to fix after he's done with it (wheels not torqued down, brake caliper slide pin bolts missing, etc) so I think I'm pretty much done with his shop. Keep in mind, I'm only 19 and am still learning some stuff on it, but my maintenance list over the past year is very long, so I feel like id be able to knock out a clutch with enough time and patience, I've done a lot of smaller jobs on it so I have a decent amount of experience already.

 

[Li'l Work Truck]

Ok. From what I've seen, book time is 8 hours max (5.5-7 for clutch & plate, 1.5 for MC, overlapping), and a high end shop shouldn't charge more than $1160 in labor. Cheaper shops appear as low as $750. Parts should be around $500. I believe you were charged hourly and not by the book. He also overcharged by $60/hr. That has all the markings of a "don't wanna do it" price.