What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


its not touching the adjuster though i do plan on replacing the spring

and its more about the hours saved than the few bucks ... and if it really is just a 10% loss of braking power, then wouldnt that mean its unsafe to use cheaper brake pads with less
stopping power, ~organic brake pads~ would make you a danger to everyone on the road?

im sure theres a plethora of faults in my logic. i gonna order the parts and replace my wheel seals and drum brakes ...both of them. i should def top off my dif fluid as well
 
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There is no comparison to upgrading parts for better performance... to knowingly hacking your brakes together because you think you'll only lose a portion of your stopping power. It also is all fun and games until that degraded spring breaks again... the star wheel adjuster pops out... and you blow a wheel cylinder during a panic stop.

A roadside/trail side repair to get you home is one thing. Being a hack... well... it just makes you a hack.
 
I agree about the spring. Springs are heat treated. You can't just make a new bend in them. That creates a weak point that will break. Order the spring or the whole hardware pack and fix it right so you can live on to further adventures.

As far as the brake fluid lead... Do you really have a brake fluid leak? Or do you have an axle seal leak? If the brake cylinder is dry and it's dry all around the brake cylinder, then it's not leaking. Move on and look for what IS leaking. Keep in mind that as brake pads and shoes wear, the cylinders stay extended further and further. That makes the level in the reservoir go down. If you fill itback up and it stays full for months, you don't have a brake system leak. If you have to keep refilling every few weeks, days or hours, look for a leak.


research tells me its a failed brake cylinder, ya? afaik, ill be pulling open my rear differential to resolve this, ya/na?
No. There are no brake components inside your differential and no reason to open it for a leaky brake cylinder.

If you have a leaky wheel seal, that repair will necessitate opening the differential.

So, do your inspecton and figure out for sure what us leaking. It looks like wheel seal to most of us. But the pictures are not 100% definitive.
 
its definitely a bad wheel seal.

from what i understand, i have to open differential and remove hub to access all the drum brake bits and pieces, ya? ill be doing a few low mile trips on the hack brake spring until i can complete a rockauto order. most of my local trips are done by bicycle anyways.

im going to pop the drum back open to verify the spring wont be hitting the 'star adjuster' and if it does, am i just better off driving with the spring disconnected?
*EDIT*
there appears to be about a 2-3mm gap between spring and star adjuster. should i just remove the spring and drive without it for now? because prior to my hack job, the free end of the spring was just dangling *above* the axle. it looks like if the brakes are applied, the shoes hinge from above so the spring should move slightly upwards ... but the 'star adjuster mechanism' would also move slightly upward.
 

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  • What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)
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its definitely a bad wheel seal.

from what i understand, i have to open differential and remove hub to access all the drum brake bits and pieces, ya? ill be doing a few low mile trips on the hack brake spring until i can complete a rockauto order. most of my local trips are done by bicycle anyways.

im going to pop the drum back open to verify the spring wont be hitting the 'star adjuster' and if it does, am i just better off driving with the spring disconnected?
*EDIT*
there appears to be about a 2-3mm gap between spring and star adjuster. should i just remove the spring and drive without it for now? because prior to my hack job, the free end of the spring was just dangling *above* the axle. it looks like if the brakes are applied, the shoes hinge from above so the spring should move slightly upwards ... but the 'star adjuster mechanism' would also move slightly upward.

Are you seriously asking if you can remove one of your brake components and then drive your truck?

I’m not a TRS official, but I’ve been on this earth 71 years and playing with this junk for probably 55 or 60 years, and the answer is emphatically “no!“

I have tinkered, cobbled, rigged more stuff in a year that most people would ever think of doing in a lifetime. But there are two basic rules when it comes to fiddling with cars and trucks, especially old cars and trucks. Number one, if something happens, you have to be able to stop. Never compromise anything on the brakes. Unimaginable experience and design expertise has gone into making every little component on what seems like an age old brake system. That includes investigating accidents and what worked and what didn’t work, material science, bench testing, and failure, etc., etc..

Number two, if something happens, you have to be able to steer it to the curb or a safe spot. Never compromise anything in the steering.

PERIOD.



On a different level, again I’m not an official with TRS, but if anybody responds in any other fashion, it would be gross negligence, and they would be liable if anything were to happen to you, or God forbid, anybody else. Consider that. It’s one thing to risk your own neck, it’s another thing to put other people at risk. The path you’re heading down put everyone at risk. You just can’t do that.

Go behind the grocery, steal a milk crate, and zip tie it to your bike, and use that until you can fix your brakes properly.

There is just no other answer.

And you may be a “young buck“ just starting out, but think of your own reputation when you even ask such things. Do you want to be known as careless and irresponsible? Devoid of responsibility, risk management and care for other people? I’m not chastising you, but it’s something to think about. Obviously we’re judged by the things we do and say. You’re going down a wrong trail with this whole way of thinking.

If you’re in a jam, get a friend with a couple bucks, go down the local auto parts store (or scrapyard), and get the proper parts and fix it properly before you drive it.

Hope it helps.
 
from what i understand, i have to open differential and remove hub to access all the drum brake bits and pieces, ya
No. The only brake component you have to remove is the drum. You do have to open the differential, remove the carrier cross pin, push the axle shaft toward the center, remove the c-clip, then pull the axle shaft out.
 
Ok, until you get your other questions brought back over here to keep your info together, here is a little info that may help settle your anxiety.

Your axle shaft is held in the housing by one thing and one thing only - a c-shaped clip that slides into a groove in the axle shaft and fits into a pocket in tje side gear in your differential. Once that clip is removed, it slides out, whether you want it to or not. I loosely outlined the disassembly procedure a few posts above. C-clip axles naturally have approximately 1/8" of end play because of this. It is fine. If it gets to be much more than 3/16" of end play, something is wearing out and needs to be replaced. You don't have to touch any brake components unless they are worn or broken. In your case, we know the brake shoes are oil-fouled and a spring is broken. Those items must be addressesd.

Here is the groove.
20260614_184414.jpg


This is roughly what your axle shaft will look like.
20260614_184405.jpg


end view
20260614_184434.jpg


The area immediately behind the flange is supposed to be polished mirror smooth because this is where the bearing rollers ride. It is called the "bearing journal" area. If you look to the left part of this, you will see a very narrow shinier part. That is where the seal (wheel seal, bearing seal are common names) rides on the smooth journal. If the sral has worn a groove, this must be repaired. Sometimes the seal can be installed 1/8"-3/16" to one side or the other fir a fresh sealing surface.
20260614_184426.jpg


The section of journal that I am pointing to here is damaged. It is no longer smooth and no longer a suitable bearing surface. Time for a new shaft. End of story. That Is why I have this in the shed to get pictures of.
20260614_184422.jpg
 
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Ok, until you get your other questions brought back over here to keep your info together, here is a little info that may help settle your anxiety.

Your axle shaft is held in the housing by one thing and one thing only - a c-shaped clip that slides into a groove in the axle shaft and fits into a pocket in tje side gear in your differential. Once that clip is removed, it slides out, whether you want it to or not. I loosely outlined the disassembly procedure a few posts above. C-clip axles naturally have approximately 1/8" of end play because of this. It is fine. If it gets to be much more than 3/16" of end play, something is wearing out and needs to be replaced. You don't have to touch any brake components unless they are worn or broken. In your case, we know the brake shoes are oil-fouled and a spring is broken. Those items must be addressesd.

Here is the groove.
View attachment 144606

This is roughly what your axle shaft will look like.
View attachment 144607

end view
View attachment 144608

The area immediately behind the flange is supposed to be polished mirror smooth because this is where the bearing rollers ride. It is called the "bearing journal" area. If you look to the left part of this, you will see a very narrow shinier part. That is where the seal (wheel seal, bearing seal are common names) rides on the smooth journal. If the sral has worn a groove, this must be repaired. Sometimes the seal can be installed 1/8"-3/16" to one side or the other fir a fresh sealing surface.
View attachment 144609

The section of journal that I am pointing to here is damaged. It is no longer smooth and no longer a suitable bearing surface. Time for a new shaft. End of story. That Is why I have this in the shed to get pictures of.
View attachment 144610

Wow. That’s the best going through I’ve seen in a long time. Thank you.

I don’t know this stuff like you guys do. I’ve been thinking of putting a locker in the Road Ranger, and this is very helpful. And your write up on this is great - and your pictures are fantastic - but it leaves me with a question. I have been inside the differential on the Missing Linc, but not the Road Ranger. Here’s the question:

The Missing Linc has the same grass that’s in your pictures, fescue, I think. I think the Road Ranger has Bermuda grass, maybe Zoysia. How would that affect me when I go inside that differential and install the locker?

As always, any help and comments are appreciated!

😜
 
Wow. That’s the best going through I’ve seen in a long time. Thank you.

I don’t know this stuff like you guys do. I’ve been thinking of putting a locker in the Road Ranger, and this is very helpful. And your write up on this is great - and your pictures are fantastic - but it leaves me with a question. I have been inside the differential on the Missing Linc, but not the Road Ranger. Here’s the question:

The Missing Linc has the same grass that’s in your pictures, fescue, I think. I think the Road Ranger has Bermuda grass, maybe Zoysia. How would that affect me when I go inside that differential and install the locker?

As always, any help and comments are appreciated!

😜
So, I’d worry less about the grass. A locker like the “Lock-Right” is not all that nice on the street. I’ve had one in my F-150 for years and it’s got some peculiarities that I can work around in that. Put one in my Choptop and it wasn’t so easy to work around. In fact after not a lot of miles it had suffered a bit of damage and I ended up removing it. Maybe something like a Detroit would be more ok on pavement. Or an E-locker that you could engage as needed. Limited slip of any flavor is definitely more street mannered
 
So, I’d worry less about the grass. A locker like the “Lock-Right” is not all that nice on the street. I’ve had one in my F-150 for years and it’s got some peculiarities that I can work around in that. Put one in my Choptop and it wasn’t so easy to work around. In fact after not a lot of miles it had suffered a bit of damage and I ended up removing it. Maybe something like a Detroit would be more ok on pavement. Or an E-locker that you could engage as needed. Limited slip of any flavor is definitely more street mannered

Let me understand this. You don’t think I should use Scott’s weed and feed?
 
The the 2011 starts and runs again. Hopefully this fuel pump will live longer than the last one. At least it wasn't winter weather this time. Next pay check, I'll be buying another fuel pump to store in the loft of the garage since aftermarket pumps hace such a bad reputation.

While the bed is off, I plan on making an access hatch for the fuel pump and do some repairs on the passenger side that always seem to rot out on these trucks. I have a repair panel already sitting in the garage waiting to do the repair. And I believe I picked up the remaining needed pieces and parts today. Since it will all live under the platform I keep in the bed of the truck, it doesn't have to be pretty. Just functional and hopefuly stop the slow death that side of the bed is experiencing. The front, lower part of the bed has some rot going on as well. I may make a patch panel for that as well.
 
Wow. That’s the best going through I’ve seen in a long time. Thank you.

I don’t know this stuff like you guys do. I’ve been thinking of putting a locker in the Road Ranger, and this is very helpful. And your write up on this is great - and your pictures are fantastic - but it leaves me with a question. I have been inside the differential on the Missing Linc, but not the Road Ranger. Here’s the question:

The Missing Linc has the same grass that’s in your pictures, fescue, I think. I think the Road Ranger has Bermuda grass, maybe Zoysia. How would that affect me when I go inside that differential and install the locker?

As always, any help and comments are appreciated!

😜
Zoysia is not as comfortable to lie on while workung under the truck.

Putting green turf is the best.
 

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