2.3L ('83-'97) 2.3 l developed knocking and misfire

[ccaissie]

Noticed lack of power and engine roughness, and then a knocking that I first thought was related to a body part/muffler rattle. Worsened, and I managed to nurse it home. Definitely an engine noise....

Coolant and oil ok, knocks louder with greater throttle, definite misfire on a cylinder, seems smoother at high rpms and light throttle.....

Can't tell yet if it's top end or bottom. What can go in these engines? Just turned 178k, uses no significant oil. Was getting 27mpg.

First check? Pull the easy side plugs? Look for oil or damage? Idle and see which cylinder doesn't heat? Do they have overhead problems? I had a Pinto that had a high rattle knock from the overhead...this isn't that noise.

 

[ccaissie]

This morning started hard...finally got it running, checked exhaust manifold. #1,2 got hot immediately, 3,4 lagging badly. Head gasket?

Bottom end seems fine, the knocking was probably because of the severe engine misfiring on half of the cylinders. Will do compression check.

So, head gasket.... or could there be another issue like the coil malfunctioning? Will dig in and please offer any other ideas....

 

[SenorNoob]

2 cylinders at the same time, makes me think coil pack. It has 2 coils that run 2 cylinders each...

 

[Uncle Gump]

Do a quick compression test...

 

[scotts90ranger]

2 cylinders at the same time, makes me think coil pack. It has 2 coils that run 2 cylinders each...

Yeah, but not those two on the same coil circuit... it's paired 1/4 and 2/3

Either head gasket or something like that, I would check the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose for fuel too.

 

[ccaissie]

2 cylinders at the same time, makes me think coil pack. It has 2 coils that run 2 cylinders each...

I thought one coil pack ran the drivers side, and the other coil ran the "easy" side. I pulled the "easy plugs" and they looked good....big gap. before putting the wires on, started engine. It ran noticeably better with the plug wires on,so some spark and combustion on cyls #3,4.

Yes, compression test next.

 

[ccaissie]

Yep, front coil powers the driver's side (Port) plugs, the rear coil powers the easy passenger side (Starboard) side.

 

[ccaissie]

So, is it easier to just swap in a good engine and tranny rather than replace the head gasket timing belt and all that? so far all the info i see is that it's a heck of a job.

I have a '97and a '93, both ran good and have 150K

 

[scotts90ranger]

I thought one coil pack ran the drivers side, and the other coil ran the "easy" side. I pulled the "easy plugs" and they looked good....big gap. before putting the wires on, started engine. It ran noticeably better with the plug wires on,so some spark and combustion on cyls #3,4.

Yes, compression test next.

Yes there are two coil packs, one for the drivers side and one for the passenger side, both have two coils with two outputs each, one side of the coil gives spark to 1 and 4 and the other side 2 and 3 with both coils. On the '89-94 the exhaust side is primary and is the only side that gets spark on cranking to help with low voltage situations, on '95-01 both coil packs fire at the same time cranking or not. With 4 cylinder inline engines the front and rear cylinders move together on the crankshaft and the middle two are 180 degrees out from that so two are at top dead center at the same time, firing order 1 3 4 2 not that it matters... the ignition system operates on a "waste spark" so the coils spark at top dead center on the compression and exhaust stroke because it is easier to make the coils that way and it doesn't matter if there's spark on the exhaust stroke.

Also '93 and '97 2.3L engines are not interchangeable unfortunately, the crank sensors are completely different and actually a pain to convert between the two because of other subtle differences like the '97 having a cam sensor as well which is in a spot that doesn't exist on the '89-94 blocks and where you would need to drill/tap for the earlier crank sensor on the newer block has an oil pump there...

It all depends on what is actually wrong. If you can put compressed air into your compression tester (will have to take the valve core out of the hose) and get those cylinders to top dead center compression and put air to them and see where the air goes that will help narrow things down.

Depending on your skill level pulling the head on a 2.3L isn't too bad, time consuming but not a lot to screw up...

 

[scotts90ranger]

Also to throw it out there I would verify the spark plug wires are going to the correct cylinders, if one of the coil packs has two of the wrong wires swapped it can cause havoc like this, it happens... the factory coils are labeled with 1/4 on one side and 2/3 on the other if I remember right, aftermarket aren't labeled, I know you can get a picture if you google it I just don't remember where they go right now as it's been like 4 years since I did the plug wires on my '97 and even longer on my '90

 

[ccaissie]

Much appreciated information, guys.

The truck has run a couple thousand miles without problem, but rather suddenly developed this issue...no chance wires got crossed.
Just did a compression test. Wouldn't even read on my crappy gauge but I can put my finger on the plug hole and crank it, so there's almost no compression #3,4.

My 93 Splash 2.3l was retired for rust and the ring gear was shot. Other than that, a fine engine. I think I'll swap the whole thing in, fix the ring gear and be done with it. That avoids effort that might find cylinder wear, need for a timing belt, and other flaws in this current engine....178K is moderate age, but my Splash has 150k and I drove it for 40k without problems...

Now, to get some input on yanking engines.....5 speed tranny too, or just the engine? Hard to find relevant videos or tutorials....

 

[scotts90ranger]

I have never once pulled them together but many people swear it's the only way... they fit through the opening just fine as one in the normal angle so no need to get all goofy pulling together...

Again, if you said your current is a '97 and you want to put a '93 engine in it isn't going to be easy. The '95+ crank sensor is on the front seal housing so is easy to swap over but the cam sensor provision is not on a '93 engine and the '97 computer needs it...

 

[ccaissie]

Current patient is a '93...the '97 is a junker out in the woods, and the difference sounds like I want to avoid that swap. I'm thinking getting the radiator out of the way is first for safety, then disconnecting all and lifting out. Break the tranny off and fix the bad ring gear flywheel on the Splash unit. Stuff the '93 Splash engine and tranny back in.

Next month....

 

[SenorNoob]

If you wanna use the 97 engine, couldn't you just let the cam sensor hang out? And swap the 93 crank sensor and housing to the newer engine?

 

[ccaissie]

I'm looking at the 93. I know that engine, and can't remember the '97.
Fewer wires and sensors is a plus in my book. I'm a actually a biodiesel guy with a TDI, and had a fleet of 80's 300SD's. Zero engine controls...just squirtgun ignition.