What did YOU do today?

[Rick W]

If you ever want to remember why you're getting divorced, try moving a chest freezer up a flight of stairs with your (soon to be ex) wife.

I also did something I've been waiting a couple years to be fully prepared to fix, which was tapping my rocker panels with a body hammer to see just how big the patches were going to need to be. I was surprised on both sides, one for how little rust there was under the bubbles and how much there was on the "good" side. Rather than say "don't ignore those paint bubbles" I'll just say: I've heard complaints about the sheet metal on Rangers but I'm impressed, borderline amazed how well the galvanizing or whatever anti-rust dip they did worked. (Rust belt truck obviously)

Do you know why divorces are so expensive?

 

[pentode]

Do you know why divorces are so expensive?

I feel a joke coming on.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Because they're worth it...

 

[pentode]

hahaha, that one rings a bell but it was definitely worth hearing again!

I've been living amongst the French a long time Plus early memory loss. Possibly a good thing. I've been watching Hogan's Heroes on a loop for about 5 years and I still enjoy it so that probably tells you something.

 

[Rick W]

I feel a joke coming on.

Because it’s worth every nickel!

 

[sgtsandman]

Well, there is good news and bad news on the box project. The good news. The boxes are coming along great. The bases are all glued and nailed together, and the first coat of boiled linseed oil has been applied.

The bad news you ask? Well, when figuring out the dimensions for cutting the boards, some meth must have gotten in the math. Both boxes are perfectly 1" too wide...

Shortening the boxes 1" is the easy part. Getting the ends, that are not just nailed onto the side boards but glued with Tight Bond as well, is going to be the hard part. Once I get the nails pulled, I'll see if I can use a hack saw on the joints.

The feet are no big deal. It's on the bottom of the box and while damage to the wood may not be desirable, it's on the bottom of the box that is going to get beat up anyway.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Well, there is good news and bad news on the box project. The good news. The boxes are coming along great. The bases are all glued and nailed together, and the first coat of boiled linseed oil has been applied.

The bad news you ask? Well, when figuring out the dimensions for cutting the boards, some meth must have gotten in the math. Both boxes are perfectly 1" too wide...

Shortening the boxes 1" is the easy part. Getting the ends, that are not just nailed onto the side boards but glued with Tight Bond as well, is going to be the hard part. Once I get the nails pulled, I'll see if I can use a hack saw on the joints.

The feet are no big deal. It's on the bottom of the box and while damage to the wood may not be desirable, it's on the bottom of the box that is going to get beat up anyway.

At least its not tongue and groove.
Run it through a table saw with a 7.25" demolition blade. Cut out the one inch you need to then saw the leftover to get back to the original side or front

 

[sgtsandman]

At least its not tongue and groove.
Run it through a table saw with a 7.25" demolition blade. Cut out the one inch you need to then saw the leftover to get back to the original side or front

That was the plan as far as shortening the box to the proper length. I'm trying to figure out how to not ruin the end piece while separating the unwanted wood. Perhaps I can use the table saw for that as well. With a sacrificial piece of scrap wood as a pusher so my fingers are no where close to the spinning blade.

 

[Rick W]

I’ve done bone head things like that more than I can remember. It seems like it’s always on the project that you’re trying to get just right, the one you care about the most.

Depending on how the boards are glued, I agree with the tablesaw. But my thinking is don’t try to make a cut and a second cut and take out the piece you don’t need anymore rather, nibble it with the chainsaw the tablesaw just take a little 1/8 inch bites out, so you’re slowly removing the material you don’t want and when you get it pretty close then maybe take a hacksaw on and separate the two pieces at a 45° angle where they meet then when you have those boards free you can trim the boards the right length again and then start over if that wasn’t clear the way I said it get off flip it back to me and I can probably get more eloquent didn’t pass the idea lol

 

[sgtsandman]

I’ve done bone head things like that more than I can remember. It seems like it’s always on the project that you’re trying to get just right, the one you care about the most.

Depending on how the boards are glued, I agree with the tablesaw. But my thinking is don’t try to make a cut and a second cut and take out the piece you don’t need anymore rather, nibble it with the chainsaw the tablesaw just take a little 1/8 inch bites out, so you’re slowly removing the material you don’t want and when you get it pretty close then maybe take a hacksaw on and separate the two pieces at a 45° angle where they meet then when you have those boards free you can trim the boards the right length again and then start over if that wasn’t clear the way I said it get off flip it back to me and I can probably get more eloquent didn’t pass the idea lol

I was following up until the 45 degree cut. I was thinking to attempt the cut to remove the end at about 1/16" proud of flush with the table saw and then about the same to reduce the length of the box. I can then use a plane to creep down to the desired length. The table saw has a built in adjustable fence. So theoretically, I should be able make that happen without a bunch of cuts. I also plan to measure from the tips of the carbide blade rather than from the blade body since the tips are wider than the blade.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Attach a sacrificial boarded to the fence so that you can have the blade touch the fence without damage to either. You won't need this in this case tho but it's good to have.
Make some finger boards to hold the good side against the fence. That way there is no way for the board to get cut thinner than needed and you can have an exact amount removed, or leave it a little proud and plane as planned...
A push board is an absolute necessity.
Edit:
Or you can make a push table that fits in the groove and cut exactly where you want without a fence.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Read edit...

 

[sgtsandman]

Attach a sacrificial boarded to the fence so that you can have the blade touch the fence without damage to either. You won't need this in this case tho but it's good to have.
Make some finger boards to hold the good side against the fence. That way there is no way for the board to get cut thinner than needed and you can have an exact amount removed, or leave it a little proud and plane as planned...
A push board is an absolute necessity.
Edit:
Or you can make a push table that fits in the groove and cut exactly where you want without a fence.

Yeah, table saws scare me. I use them when I have to but I think they might be the most dangerous wood working tool out there.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Yeah, table saws scare me. I use them when I have to but I think they might be the most dangerous wood working tool out there.

Good attitude. They are safe as long as you make them safe. I think handheld grinders are more dangerous....

 

[sgtsandman]

Good attitude. They are safe as long as you make them safe. I think handheld grinders are more dangerous....

That may be true but I'm used to them and wear heavy gloves and safety glasses with them unless I'm using a cutting blade. Then I have a face shield in case the cutting blade decides to grenade. I also have a heavy apron and wear leather boots.