Engine & Transmission Install Question: One Unit or Separately?

[Bronco648]

I will soon be acquiring a 1985 Ranger regular cab, long bed. It has the 2.8 V6 with A4LD.

The engine & trans are currently out of the truck (engine is a re-built long block, tranny needs a rebuild).

What's easier when putting the engine & trans back in the truck (chances are I'll be doing this by myself or might have a little assistance from my wife):

Install engine & trans as one unit, with a hoist, thru the engine compartment?
OR
Install the trans from underneath and then drop the engine in with a hoist?

Since this will be a one-person show, I'm not sure I have the strength to lift the tranny into place from underneath (if it wasn't a slushbox, I probably could).

2 - If I install the engine/trans as a unit, does the truck need to be up on jack stands (for additional ground clearance)?

3 - Would it be better to leave the distributor out so it doesn't (potentially) impact the firewall?

TIA

 

[RonD]

Yes, leave distributor out

Installing engine trans as one unit can be easier
Need a HIGH lift
Put plywood on windshield, I broke one when trans swung around when I was doing it by myself
3 people are better, one under, one over, and one running the lift

Truck without the weight of the engine usually sits high enough on its springs, but have a jack handy


But if engine is ready to go then just put it in, and rebuild trans, then put it in
You can finish alot of work in engine bay once engine is in place, and then install trans when its ready
These are more 1 person jobs, than the engine/trans combo install

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

To make it easier to control my lift by myself, i bought an air/hydraulic ram from Princess Auto (Harbour Freight) for about $120. I then extended the control air line to about 12-15 feet so i could raise or lower from under the vehicle.

 

[bobbywalter]

I would make the inner fender and core assembly removable while waiting on the tranny rebuild.



That will be one less thing to do when you swap the hemi in later

 

[Bronco648]

Yes, leave distributor out

Installing engine trans as one unit can be easier
Need a HIGH lift
Put plywood on windshield, I broke one when trans swung around when I was doing it by myself
3 people are better, one under, one over, and one running the lift

Truck without the weight of the engine usually sits high enough on its springs, but have a jack handy


But if engine is ready to go then just put it in, and rebuild trans, then put it in
You can finish alot of work in engine bay once engine is in place, and then install trans when its ready
These are more 1 person jobs, than the engine/trans combo install

OK, maybe it's not a bad idea to piecemeal the job(s). I also considered removing the cab from the frame. But, then the cab would have to be pretty high off the ground to clear the engine and I don't have a lift. I'm leery of smashing a hand under that transmission. Guess I'm going to need some type of lift. In retrospect, I'll bet manual gearboxes aren't that much lighter than slush boxes.

 

[Bronco648]

To make it easier to control my lift by myself, i bought an air/hydraulic ram from Princess Auto (Harbour Freight) for about $120. I then extended the control air line to about 12-15 feet so i could raise or lower from under the vehicle.

Did you mean for the engine or transmission (or both)? Got a link (to Princess Auto ) for the ram?

 

[Bronco648]

No Hemis. SBF, maybe.....

 

[Shran]

One piece... no thanks, hard pass on that. I will wrangle them separately any day of the week.

Trans is easy from below if you can buy or borrow an ATV/mower jack or a transmission jack.

Manual transmissions are a LOT lighter than autos. I am guessing an A4LD or C5 weighs at least 50lbs more than any of the manuals that were available in our trucks. I can set a manual trans on my chest, roll under on a creeper and stab the thing without a jack... wouldn't even try that with an auto.

 

[bobbywalter]

No Hemis. SBF, maybe.....

Well....hemi was the descriptor for whatever the next level of power is.

We need to do a how to clip....to "clip" these rbv,s......

Doing what you propose is much easier that way. And safer. Especially alone.

Future maintenance as well ... Doing exhaust manifolds or head gaskets ect...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Did you mean for the engine or transmission (or both)? Got a link (to Princess Auto ) for the ram?

The air/hydraulic ram is for the engine hoist if you decide to do both at once.
If you do the trans by itself ive used a rachet strap or two to support the trans. A 2x4 in the cab with the ratchet strap from there down around the trans.

Priced at C$120.00

 

[fastpakr]

If you're doing it as a unit, I'd absolutely invest in a load leveler.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

If you're doing it as a unit, I'd absolutely invest in a load leveler.

I dont know. I own one and find it gets in the way more than helps. Tho its a cheap one, pergaps a quality one would work better. I try to balance the engine so the trans is drooping down and if i put weight on the front of the engine i can level it out. Seems to work on bigger cars. On my Rangers that ive engine swapped ive cut the top rad support or removed the entire inner fenders as bobbywalter does. So i dont know if its possible to do in an unmolested rbv.

 

[fastpakr]

Interesting. I've only used one a couple of times but found it really useful. Though if there had been more people involved it would have probably been a lot less helpful.

 

[bobbywalter]

I like my levelers.

But they can hinder rbv stuff

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I’ve had mixed results with levelers. Didn’t seem like it had nearly enough tilt which kind of then hindered trying to slide an engine/transmission unit in without pulling the core support, but it helps doing an engine by itself. That said, being able to pull the core support and/or inner fenders makes things much, much easier, especially by yourself. Transmission jack is almost indispensable for transmission work, but I’ve worked around it with ratchet straps and floor jacks and whatnot