Stuck removing CV from Dana 35

[dustyrangers]

Do you need to remove the hub on a 03 Dana 35 (4.0 4wd) to get the CVs out? I am dropping my diff for a rebuild and got to where I can almost pull them but I just don’t quite have enough sway. Will they come out when I drop it?

 

[dustyrangers]

Here’s a pic. Also... anything else I should replace while I’m here?

 

[pjtoledo]

I pull the tie rod and lower ball joint out. swings out far enough to pull the stub out. (in)

as it is you may be able to pull the inner joint from the diff and leave the axle assembly in place.
pull hard, there is a clip in the splines that holds the joint in the diff.

 

[Josh B]

I've seen threads about those being very difficult due to that clip I suppose and even saved a how to somewhere. It told how to get it out as well as how to fix it going back so you don't have to do it the hard way next time. i'm fairly certain it was in a thread on one of these forums, and if not on this one, not sure it would be ok to post it here.

I've long considered doing my own, and rebuilding the front drive shafts. After I get through the tranny and motor I'll be headed into the front end

 

[dustyrangers]

Thanks! I was hoping to avoid the tie rod ends but they look simple enough. I am so close on the inners already but will drop them if needed because I think that would do the trick.

Josh B this diff is very annoying . I’ve read you can grind the head of one of the bolts to make it easier to get out but I can’t make sense of it (mine is lifted so it’s also a lot more room down there). No drain bolt either so I am going to try to tap one while it is out. Right now my cover and pinion seal are leaking.

 

[dustyrangers]

I pull the tie rod and lower ball joint out. swings out far enough to pull the stub out. (in)

as it is you may be able to pull the inner joint from the diff and leave the axle assembly in place.
pull hard, there is a clip in the splines that holds the joint in the diff.

I was able to get right side out today and left is enough that it will come out when take the mounting bolts off (didn’t need to take anything else off but the shock so I could get a better grip on the axle. Do you remove the whole frame mount or take out the 3 bolts in the side of the diff?

 

[dustyrangers]

Left side:

Right side:

 

[pjtoledo]

I was able to get right side out today and left is enough that it will come out when take the mounting bolts off (didn’t need to take anything else off but the shock so I could get a better grip on the axle. Do you remove the whole frame mount or take out the 3 bolts in the side of the diff?

I removed the bolts from the frame mount bushings. I did not have a lift so your method may vary.

 

[dustyrangers]

I got everything out today and it’s not looking too bad on the inside. Now that I know the process it is pretty easy but I wouldn’t want to do it without air tools and I think the lift makes a difference. Does anyone know part # for the outer seals with the big loose rubber edges or what they are called? I circled where they are in the pic but don’t have a closeup and it’s raining now (wish I had a garage).

 

[pjtoledo]

I picked some up at my local NAPA last year. don't have the # handy.

 

[Josh B]

Napa changed in the last year or so, they're not quite like they used to be. Although I can't tell you the exact differences, just know they have, I mean like whoever thought they'd throw a big sales pitch out there in their parking lot?

 

[dustyrangers]

Found them under axle seals for about $25 a piece, as well as the left axle bearing that didn’t come with the rebuild kit.

 

[dustyrangers]

I am down to everything out but the two outer pieces of the pinion bearings (racers?) and the pass side axle bearing. Everything else required a bearing separator and a big puller. Any idea how to get these last 3 out?

Axle bearing (racer?)

Pinion bearings (racers?)

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The pinion races (not racers) use a flat screwdriver and tap out from the backside.
The axle bearing use a slidehammer and inside bearing puller attachment. Your parts place may have it in a "loan a tool" program.

 

[Curious Hound]

What he ^^^ said. Don't just hit the race in one place when you drive it out. Give it a few taps on one side. Then move your screwdriver ( punch, brass/bronze/aluminum rod ) to a point 180 degrees from there and give a few taps. Then back to the first side, etc. You don't want the race to get too crooked when you're removing it. This is especially important for installing the new one. Same for bearing seals. Also be sure not to gouge the machined holes that the races fit into. Any defect that causes the bearing race to be out of round will cause issues with the new bearing.