Rear Disc Conversion on an 2003 4x4?

[Mirage775]

I've been looking and searching for the proper way to go about installing rear disc brakes on my '03 Ranger 4x4 and just need a little more assistance with it?
I've found more information about swapping rear ends in pre 98 Rangers more than anything, but that's not what I need in this case?

First off, I have an 8.8 diff with 4:10 OE gears. I'll measure the axle housing today, once the rains dies down a bit. And I would like to use an complete Explorer diff/axle setup, that requires no welding, so that I'll still have my e-brake cables more or less in the same areas, as I have a manual and always use the e-brake.

If anyone can help me out, I'd appreciate it?

Thanks

 

[pjtoledo]

what all is included in the 2011 conversion??

 

[Mirage775]

what all is included in the 2011 conversion??

Not exactly the reply I was expecting... But it's a 2011 Body Conversion/Facelift

 

[don4331]

The '11 has the best stock rear axle out there; spring mounts on top of axles, 31 splines, vented discs, correct parking brake cables. If you get lucky, it even has sway bar mounts (optional for 4 wheeling, good for daily driving). The true bolt in solution.

If you didn't swap in the '11 rear axle, and don't want to do any welding, you need:

'97-01 Ford Explorer Rear axle with correct gears (ideally you find axle with 4.10s to start with), additional drivers side Explorer shock mount, F-150 DJM or equivalent rear axle, lowering kit. Ideally '11 Ranger caliper mounts, calipers, rotors and parking brake cables.

You may need angle shims to get axle perfectly oriented.

I reused the Explorer brakes but had my parking brake intermediate cable shortened by a garage door shop (ideally, I would have had an aviation shop swage the new end on. I didn't have that option where I was at time; you should be able to find that in Huntsville).

That the answer you were looking for?

 

[pjtoledo]

does a 2003 have the tone ring & sensor in the differential? because the 2011 does not, it has exciters on each wheel.
not all 2011s have 31 splines, I have one that is 28 splines. big bearings yes, 31 no.

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/rear-brake-upgrade.459983/

https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166349

 

[Mirage775]

The '11 has the best stock rear axle out there; spring mounts on top of axles, 31 splines, vented discs, correct parking brake cables. If you get lucky, it even has sway bar mounts (optional for 4 wheeling, good for daily driving). The true bolt in solution.

If you didn't swap in the '11 rear axle, and don't want to do any welding, you need:

'97-01 Ford Explorer Rear axle with correct gears (ideally you find axle with 4.10s to start with), additional drivers side Explorer shock mount, F-150 DJM or equivalent rear axle, lowering kit. Ideally '11 Ranger caliper mounts, calipers, rotors and parking brake cables.

You may need angle shims to get axle perfectly oriented.

I reused the Explorer brakes but had my parking brake intermediate cable shortened by a garage door shop (ideally, I would have had an aviation shop swage the new end on. I didn't have that option where I was at time; you should be able to find that in Huntsville).

That the answer you were looking for?

I believe that answered my question, but the "2011 Conversion" in my signature is a front end facelift, mirrors and tail light only swap, since there seems to be some confusion here. I didn't have a 2011 complete parts truck or anything.

I'm not sure if my OE rear axle is a 28 or 31 spline. It was an Edge 4x4 to start off, but I swapped decals to an FX4. From lots of research I've done, it says the Edge 4x4 and the FX4 were the same rear axle/diff? The FX4 Level 2 is different though. I know there are 2 different axle sizes and one has a 28 spline and the other has a 31 spline.

Since the 2011 axle is out of the question, at least for me, I need to find a 97-01 Explorer complete rear axle, plus an additional drivers side shock mount to do this swap? Seems like I saw this conversion somewhere in my researching? If this is correct, I'll start checking the local LKQ for Explorers and hopefully they'll have the diff tags still?

So, the modified Mustang caliper bracket setup cannot work on my truck, correct? I believe I bought those a couple years back and they may still be in the garage.

 

[Mirage775]

OK, I found the Explorer disc swap write-up on the TRS tech how-to's. https://www.therangerstation.com/how-to/axles/explorer-8-8-rear-end-swap-no-weld/

I was almost about to go looking for axles tomorrow, at LKQ, but noticed that the Explorer swap drops the Ranger 4"!!!! I have a 4x4, I don't need a drop, I need a lift. Is this true, that it'll drop the rear 4"?

 

[Uncle Gump]

What is it you're trying to accomplish with the disc brakes? Do you feel it's under braked with the factory disc/drum combo?

I've done light towing... fishing boat... dune buggies. I also have a 7 foot slide in Scamper (800 ilbs empty) that I road tripped all over Michigan and I don't ever remember a single incident where I said... I sure wish I had rear disc brakes.

 

[CraftsmanQuad19]

Es the Explorer axle will drop it because the factory explorers put the axle over the leaf springs, the ranger has the leaf spring on top and axle below. You’ll have to cut the spring perches off and weld them onto the top, as well as shock mounts. If you or a buddy can weld than it’s no problem. I have a 94 and want to do the same swap, but then my question is master cylinder with stock ranger front brakes and stock explorer rears...

 

[don4331]

Mirage775:

My apologies for not being clear enough:
The DJM F150 lower kit in my solution changes an F-150 from leaf over axle to leaf under axle lowering the F-140 4".
However, when applied to an Explorer axle, it changes it from leaf under axle to leaf over axle - the result is your Ranger is at the exact same height as current.

CraftsmanQuad19:

The master cylinder on your Ranger is fine with stock front brakes and stock rear - ideally, you would want to adjust the brake bias forward a hair (or install larger front rotors), but you won't notice the difference on daily driving.

Uncle Gump:

It took me a while to understand why individuals want rear discs - I largely put it down to the "bling" of discs. But I came to realize - my drums work so much better, because I swap the tires between summer and winter. And when I am doing the tire swap, I check the brakes for wear, that the adjusters operate freely, etc. So, the drums on my truck are always well set up.

A few of the Rangers I've rehabilitated, still had the original pads/drums, were oftern covered in oil from leaking axle seals and the adjuster were rusted solid. So, it was little wonder their drums didn't function and they thought discs were the solution.

I've done heavy towing (for Ranger) of Explorer on U-haul trailer, heavy loads Adventurer 76R camper (1,300lbs dry) but drum brakes weren't an issue. The only reason I swapped was the Explorer 8.8 came with the V-8 (and I liked fact that it is rated 500lbs heavier).

 

[Mirage775]

What is it you're trying to accomplish with the disc brakes? Do you feel it's under braked with the factory disc/drum combo?

I've done light towing... fishing boat... dune buggies. I also have a 7 foot slide in Scamper (800 ilbs empty) that I road tripped all over Michigan and I don't ever remember a single incident where I said... I sure wish I had rear disc brakes.

I just don't care for drum brakes. I drove trucks built in the 60's with manual drum/drum combos and hated it. I constantly have to adjust the Rangers drums and if they get wet, it's tougher to stop. Withing the next 2-3 years, my Ranger will most likely become a trail rig only and I'll buy another truck for daily driving. Nothing insane, (like my Jeep did), but mostly offroad, washouts, wet/dry creek beds, etc.

It's just something I want to do to my truck and the Winter of 2019, most of the truck will be apart for lift suspension lift and bushing install.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

I just don't care for drum brakes. I drove trucks built in the 60's with manual drum/drum combos and hated it. I constantly have to adjust the Rangers drums and if they get wet, it's tougher to stop. Withing the next 2-3 years, my Ranger will most likely become a trail rig only and I'll buy another truck for daily driving. Nothing insane, (like my Jeep did), but mostly offroad, washouts, wet/dry creek beds, etc.

It's just something I want to do to my truck and the Winter of 2019, most of the truck will be apart for lift suspension lift and bushing install.

If all of the parts are cleaned VERY well and coated in anti-seize then the brakes should self adjust just fine on their own. Unless they're assembled wrong, which is very, very common.

I also hate drum brakes, but if they're put together right, they're pretty much drama free.

I converted my 8.8 to disc brakes and I wish I never would have. I've ran across a few other guys with the same problem too. Mine wear the inboard pad REALLY bad. I've put new calipers on, new caliper slide brackets, checked the rotors were centered/spaced properly in the caliper after bolting it all together.. Nothing helps. I'm a maintenance mechanic by trade, with 30 years experience, and I've never had anything continue to beat me like this disc brake conversion.

On my V8 swap truck I left the drum brakes alone other than a quick disassembly, cleaning, and coating with anti-seize. They're flawless.



GB

 

[Mirage775]

Es the Explorer axle will drop it because the factory explorers put the axle over the leaf springs, the ranger has the leaf spring on top and axle below. You’ll have to cut the spring perches off and weld them onto the top, as well as shock mounts. If you or a buddy can weld than it’s no problem. I have a 94 and want to do the same swap, but then my question is master cylinder with stock ranger front brakes and stock explorer rears...

Yep, I remembered last night, after posting, that the Explorer is axle over spring... Trying to get this conversion completed without having to pa someone to weld anything for me. There a few welding shops around here, but they all so damn expensive for less than 30 minutes of work!

I had an 03 S10 many years ago, that had rear drum brakes. All 2nd S-10 Blazers have rear disc brakes. I did the S-Blazer swap on my S10 and it's was all bolt on. Only had to change axles, not the whole assembly though, then just just add the disc parts. I didn't have to touch my master cylinder or use an adjustable proportioning valve or anything.

I checked in my garage this morning and I still have the axle backing plate mounts and anti-moan brackets from an '04 V6 Mustang, so I may look into that swap instead.

 

[Uncle Gump]

That's my thoughts also don... Bling... and being able to say... I have 4 wheel disc brakes. If that is someones thing... convert away.

$150 will replace everything including the drums. A little maintenance annually and the rear drum brake will go 100K flawlessly. At least the way I drive.

 

[Mirage775]

Mirage775:
My apologies for not being clear enough:

The DJM F150 lower kit in my solution changes an F-150 from leaf over axle to leaf under axle lowering the F-140 4".

However, when applied to an Explorer axle, it changes it from leaf under axle to leaf over axle - the result is your Ranger is at the exact same height as current.

Oh, I wasn't sure what a DJM kit was? So, would that F-150 lowering kit work with the Rangers leaf springs, without a problem?