2019-2023 Ford Ranger Sway Bar Link Upgrade

The factory front sway bar link in the 2019-2023 Ford Ranger is not very durable. In our 2025 Colorado Adventure, one of our guys had one break driving across California Pass (Cinnamon Pass – Alpine Loop).

Stock Ford Sway Bar Link

Here’s the factory sway bar link:

MEVOTECH TXK80252 Replacement / Upgrade

MEVOTECH offer a heavy-duty replacement under Part TXK80252.

Engineered for extreme conditions, TTX stabilizer bar links deliver top-tier performance. With Repek TEK corrosion-resistant coating, high strength steel, thicker hex forging, and advanced ball joint technology, they offer maximum durability, minimal maintenance, and all-weather dependability.

Sintered Metal Strength – Get longer life and durability with patented self-lubricating greaseable sintered bearings engineered to excel under high heat and heavy loads.

Greaseable Ball Joint – SAE grease fitting included for easy service.

Keep Water and Debris Out – Patented multi-lip boot mechanically locks into housing to seal grease in and keep contaminants out.

More Material – Thicker hex forging and larger diameter ball pins provide additional rigidity for extended part life.

 

Look At This as an Upgrade – Not A Repair

If you use your 2019-2023 Ford Ranger off pavement you may want to consider switching to these sway bar links as an upgrade before one breaks out on a trail or back country road somewhere.

Where to Buy

Rock Auto

Amazon

I found these online at Rock Auto cheaper than on Amazon, but with Amazon’s free shipping they ended up being cheaper than ordering from Rock Auto.

Remove & Replace the Front Sway Bar Link

Tools & Parts

• New sway bar link (OEM or quality aftermarket unit for 2019–2023 Ford Ranger)
• 18 mm wrench (open-end or combination)
• 6 mm Allen wrench (hex key)
• Floor jack and jack stands (or a two-post lift)
• Torque wrench (recommended)
• Penetrating oil (if nuts/bolts look rusted)
• Breaker bar or ratchet for initial loosening (optional)
• Safety glasses and gloves
• Rag and small wire brush (clean mating surfaces)
• Thread locker (medium strength) — optional, follow new-part instructions

Important Safety Notes

• Park on level ground, engage the parking brake, chock the rear wheels.
• Never rely on a jack alone — always support the vehicle with jack stands or use a lift.
• Wear eye protection and gloves. Work with the steering straight ahead (wheels pointed forward) unless otherwise specified.
• If you are unsure about torque values or any step, consult the factory service manual or a qualified mechanic.

Step-by-step Removal & Replacement

1. Prepare the vehicle. Loosen the front lug nuts slightly if you plan to remove the wheel. Raise the front of the truck with a floor jack and support it securely on jack stands. Remove the wheel for better access (recommended).
2. Locate the sway bar link. The front sway bar link connects the sway bar (stabilizer bar) to the lower control arm or strut end (depending on trim). You’ll see a link with ball-joint ends and mounting hardware at both top and bottom.
3. Inspect fasteners and clean if necessary. Spray penetrating oil on the nuts/bolts if they appear corroded and let sit for a few minutes. Use a wire brush or rag to remove heavy grime so tools seat properly.
4. Hold the stud with the 6 mm Allen wrench. On most Ranger sway bar links the stud has an internal hex (6 mm). Insert the 6 mm Allen into the stud to prevent the stud from spinning.
5. Loosen the nut with the 18 mm wrench. While holding the stud with the Allen, use the 18 mm wrench to break the nut loose. If very tight, use a breaker bar or short extension on the wrench, but do not round the nut.
6. Remove the nuts and separate the link. Remove the fasteners at both ends of the link (top and bottom). Some links use a single nut; others use studs with nuts and a separate sleeve/washer. Preserve any washers or sleeves if the new part does not include replacements.
7. Remove the old link. Pull the worn link out of the mounting holes. If stuck, a small tap with a hammer on the ball joint housing or a pry (careful not to damage surrounding parts) can help free it.
8. Compare old vs new parts. Before installing, compare lengths, ball stud orientation, and included hardware. Ensure the new part matches the old one.
9. Install the new sway bar link. Position the new link into place. If required, apply a small amount of medium-strength thread locker to the threads (only if the part instructions recommend it).
10. Start the nuts by hand. Thread nuts on both ends by hand first to ensure proper alignment and avoid cross-threading. If the link design requires holding the stud, again use the 6 mm Allen to prevent it from turning while you snug the nut with the 18 mm wrench.
11. Tighten to spec. Use a torque wrench to tighten the nuts to the manufacturer’s torque specification for your Ranger. Do not guess torque values — check the factory service manual, dealer, or a trusted repair manual for the correct number. If you don’t have the spec, snug the nuts securely and re-check after a short test drive.
12. Reinstall wheel & lower vehicle. Reinstall the wheel (if removed) and hand-tighten lug nuts. Lower the vehicle from the jack stands and torque the lug nuts to the wheel manufacturer’s recommended torque.
13. Final checks. With the vehicle on the ground, verify there is no binding at full suspension droop and full compression (if possible). Take a short test drive and listen for any clunks or squeaks. Re-check the hardware torque after 100–200 miles.

Troubleshooting & Tips

• If the stud spins while you hold the Allen, try using a longer Allen key or wedge a hex key into a socket for better leverage. Do not hammer the Allen while installed — this can round the hex.
• Rusty nuts: heat with a propane torch if you’re experienced and safe to do so (avoid plastic components), or use penetrating oil + time.
• Replace both sides if one link failed — they typically wear as a pair.
• If you hear clunks after replacement, re-check torque and inspect adjacent bushings and sway bar mounts for wear.