1986 bronco II atx with shutter on aceleration

[geck0]

As the title says, when I accelerate I have a very fast shutter while accelerating (did it with original driveshaft and still but less with new U-joint style driveshaft) now I read on all data about some cross member update that replaced the original (mines the original) something about it causes the shutter so i called ford with the part number of course its too old they don't have it nor have a picture or description of what made the new one different. So then I ask if they have a master tech that was there back in the 80 and 90's, they did and he said (to the best of his memory) it was a taller trans support that changed the angle and he said i could try just shimming my old one with washers but that he wasn't sure.... Any ideas?

[jhammel85]

Where do you feel the shutter? Is it in the steering wheel or do you feel it in your seat? Is it only in acceleration? Any certain speeds that you feel it too?

[geck0]

its now under acceleration after its warm and i've driven a bit it happens sometimes even starting from a light, but usually its like 2nd and third,

i feel it in the seat, and its weird its like it jumps forward, its not like a lagging its more of a foward jump in the seat and floor, my wife was in the passenger seat and she felt it.

the thing that worries me is sometimes it gets violent and i have to back off, then re-accelerate, usually it doens't but sometimes its like the back end starts hopping, i've been into the rear diff it looked ok at a glance, standard slim cam out. maybe i missed something. or a axle bearing? i dunno, i'm just hopping its not the tranny.

I dunno if it matters but my rear leaf springs seems pretty saggy. which may go along with why they made this supposed taller trans tail support?

[geck0]

went out looking at christmas lights in the bronco (great back windows for the boys to see) and i've come to realize i do think its a slipping trans, i think i was miss judging it...so the next question is... It's a A4LD trans.... should i buy another trans and rebuild it to install, or upgrade to a better trans? whats the best route to go, its mainly a road vehicle my do some off road but nothing major (would love to just no time)

Ideas?

[The_Dealer]

c5 if u wanna keep auto fm146 or m50d for stick

[geck0]

Is the C5 auto a direct swap or need new shafts and all? (in a tight budget) and is the A4LD that bad? Like if i got one cheap and rebuilt it am i just doomed for future issues?

also what do most wheelers run? I assume manual?

[bobbywalter]

not a direct swap.

a well built a4ld is fine for a truck like yours though.

[geck0]

I guess it's time to start lookin for a A4LD...

[The_Dealer]

personally i would go with an fm146 or m50d-r1. i got all my swap parts for 55 bux shipped. pedals, slave, lines, master, resi. both of those trannys are the same length as an a4ld so no moving the xmember or driveshaft changes

u will need:

pedal assembly
master cyl
slave cyl with throw out
clutch lines(will need lines and slave for 92+ with m5od if u do that trans)
flywheel
clutch kit with pilot bearing

and i believe thats it, im going to be starting on mine soon, just gotta get a trans, flywheel, and clutch kit

[geck0]

yea but as i said before I don't have all the time to do that, I was lookin for a good quick swap I guess i'll just do the A4LD but just find a good one and have it gone through, gotta find a good priced one

[jhammel85]

I would agree about another auto. I know it might be out of your price ranger (1000 or so?) but Advance auto offers new AL4D's. "Heavy duty" ones too. Each come with a warranty.

Are you 100% sure about it going out? If it's doing it warm, I'd have to wonder about the condition of the fluid itself.

For starter's try checking the fluids level and see if it smells burnt (if it's slipping, it just may)

[Shran]

I think your best bet would be to find a GOOD local trans rebuilder and have yours rebuilt. Have them do the shift kit and all the other upgrades. I say do this vs buying another one because yours isn't totally shot yet and is a great candidate for a rebuild.

The above is assuming that you've done some troubleshooting - ie the fluid condition is good and it's at the proper level.