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Old 11-23-2010, 04:31 PM   #1
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Default 86 bronco II rear disc brake problems

I currently have a 86 broncoII with a 302 v8. Im having issues with the braking performance. The brake pedal seems spongy for the majority of the travel then gets stiff with out any extra response to the braking. It does stop but not as fast as i would like. I am not able to make any sudden stops because the the pedal gets hard with no added braking powere no matter how hard i press. I recently installed a 95 explorer 8.8 with disc brakes. I replaced the front and rear calipers and installed a master cylinder from the explorer and an adjustable proportioning valve. I have recently installed a vacuum storage tank to help but not knowing if vacuum is the problem. Im not sure if there is any residual valves affecting the pressure. The only issue with the master cylinder is the resivour makes contact with the booster so i shimmed it out to clear and adjusted the booster pushrod out. any suggestions??
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Old 11-23-2010, 04:36 PM   #2
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Un-shim the master cylinder for starters. Your valve may not be adjusted right either, but your master cylinder shim is more than likely causing less than desirable operation.

If it just won't fit on there without the shim, try putting in the 95's booster.
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Looking for 95-98 manual trans pedal bracket. Conducting an experiment for the betterment of all Ranger-kind.
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Old 11-23-2010, 04:45 PM   #3
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i looked into the explorer booster but it has a larger bolt pattern. I m thinking of getting a master cylinder with the dual resivour to fix the clearance issue but not sure what bore size i need
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Old 11-23-2010, 04:49 PM   #4
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Is yours the plastic reservoir or the bale-clip style?
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Quote:
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HELP REPEAL OBAMACARE

Looking for 95-98 manual trans pedal bracket. Conducting an experiment for the betterment of all Ranger-kind.
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Old 11-23-2010, 04:53 PM   #5
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plastic.
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Old 11-23-2010, 04:58 PM   #6
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Try putting your original back in and see. I think the original master will work. Post down in the brakes section, those guys will know for sure.
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Looking for 95-98 manual trans pedal bracket. Conducting an experiment for the betterment of all Ranger-kind.
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Old 11-23-2010, 05:41 PM   #7
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When i first did the dixc swap I had the original master cylinder in but it was even worse.
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Old 11-23-2010, 06:16 PM   #8
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You don't need the proportioning valve or the vacuum reservoir, for one thing. I have a disc brake 8.8 from a 97 Explorer, a disc brake D44 from a '76 Bronco and my stock master and booster... the brakes work very well.

How sure are you that you got the master cylinder completely bled? I don't think that the shim would cause any issues if you adjusted the pushrod length to compensate for it.
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Old 11-23-2010, 06:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shran View Post
I don't think that the shim would cause any issues if you adjusted the pushrod length to compensate for it.
And if you did adjust the pushrod length then it should be ok. I'm sick right now and most of my assumptions are coming from the point of something else not being done right.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raj
What you need is cheat codes, motor skills, and a magic genie who grants wishes to little boys who suck at Mario Kart
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Adams
Our Constitution was made only for a moral and religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the government of any other.

HELP REPEAL OBAMACARE

Looking for 95-98 manual trans pedal bracket. Conducting an experiment for the betterment of all Ranger-kind.
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Old 11-23-2010, 10:07 PM   #10
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Ive bench bled the master twice and the whole system a few times. still no change. I have the proportioning valve adjusted to operate mainly the front brakes in order to stop
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Old 11-23-2010, 11:24 PM   #11
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So were you having problems with the fronts locking up or something?
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Old 11-24-2010, 01:13 PM   #12
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No problems with the front. Its mainly the lack of pressure when the pedal is pressed
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