Home Discussion Forum Tech Articles Other Articles Featured Rides Readers Rides Classifieds Shirts & Decals Parts Store

Ford Ranger Discussion Forum

Off-Road Truck Of The Month

'RICO9'
July 2014 OTOTM

Mini Truck Of The Month

'Cole' Dave'
July 2014 MTOTM
 
Old 07-12-2010, 04:38 AM   #1
Desert Rat 23
Junior Member
 
Desert Rat 23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: The scorched land of Arizona, where gun toting, bible thumping, inbread racists seam to be the norm.
Posts: 32
Vehicle Year: 1997
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger XLT
I use this vehicle for: Everyday driver, Work, Some play
Rep Power: 9
Desert Rat 23 is on a distinguished road
Default Replacing your timing belt (with pics)

Ok, I know that there are a lot of threads covering timing belts and crank shaft pulley removals, but while I was trying to do mine I couldn't find a good one that covered the whole thing. This was my first timing belt project and I got a lot of help from some cool people on this forum so I figured I'd try to pay it forward.

First, if you don't have a Haynes manual, get one. Everything that you need to know about this is in there. Except tips and tricks to doing the hard stuff.

You're going to need to remove a lot of shit from the front of the truck to give yourself room to work. You can get away without removing some of it, but why torture yourself. You'll save time in the end.

Remove the air intake, exhaust side spark plugs, fan belt, fan and shroud, radiator, and battery. That should give you enough room.

Now, you need to find top dead center, this is where removing the spark plugs pays off. Turn the crank pulley in the same direction that it would spin if the engine were on until the timing mark on the crank pulley reaches the TC mark

Now look in the two peep holes on the timing cover to see if the marking on the cam pulley and oil pump pulley are lined up.


If they're not, turn it another 360 degrees and check again. you should be good now.

Next, unbolt the ac compressor w/out disconnecting the hoses and move it out of the way so that you can remove the 3 bolts holding the pwr steering bracket. The bracket has to be moved to remove the timing belt cover.

Remove the bolt or bolts and screws holding the timing belt cover on and pull out the cover.


Ok, this is where Haynes says "remove the crank shaft pulley", but they don't tell you what a bitch it can be. First take out the bolt. If you have an impact wrench, sweet. Sense you took out the radiator you wont have a problem using it. If you are like me and don't then you need to get creative. just spinning it to the left is futile. There are a lot of ways to do it and they all can be found in this forum with a quick search. I just put my breaker bar on it, tied it to the frame with a tie down strap and with the ignition coils disconnected, cranked the engine for a half second. Worked like a charm.

However, from what I've read, heard, and good ol' common sense, this can be dangerous and shit can break. Fair warning.

But it works

Now you need to get that pulley off. If you have a pulley with more than one bolt holding it on then just get a puller from the auto shop for about 15 bucks or have them loan it to you. Most will. If yours is like mine with one bolt only and the pulley doesn't just come off after the bolt did then here's what I did.

Spray a shit ton off penetrating oil in the crank key notch. I was told PB or liquid wrench. Never used them, but plan on getting some for future projects. I used wd40 and got lucky I guess.

Wait a while for it to soak in. Like a few hours or all night. Then using a dead blow mallet smack the crap out of the pulley on all sides. Take a torch (propane or map gas) heat up the pulley from the inside, around the shaft, not the shaft itself, (heat expands metal so don't heat the shaft) and don't cook it so much that it melts the rubber in the pulley. Then take a long (3-4') skinny bar (I used my small floor jack handle) and from behind the pulley and under the oil pan rap on the back of it to push it off the shaft.




If it doesn't come off, give the crank a 1/4 turn and repeat. (just remember to return it to TDC before removing the belt) Also, don't beat on it so hard that you bend the crap out of it. Patience, heat, time, and beer. You may need a lot of all of them. It will come off.



Its all down hill from here now. Just loosen the 2 bolts holding the tensioner, pry the tensioner back to release the belt, remove the belt WITHOUT TURNING ANY OF THE PULLEYS. Put the new belt on starting at the crank and working counter clockwise, reset the tensioner without tightening it. Turn the crank a few times to tighten it all up and also making sure all the timing marks still line up. Now tighten it all up and put it all back together. Your done.

I probably got some of this wrong. But this is what I did and it worked great. I had a lot of help from some very cool members of this forum. So thanks to them.

If you see a flaw in this mess please correct me. Just wanted to give the next guy the help that i got.

CHEERS!!!
__________________
...and so I said "RECTUM!? Damn near killed um!"
Ignorance is expensive... Read, ask stupid questions, and learn.
Desert Rat 23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Forum Notices (Not shown to 'Premium Members')

 Reminder:

 We're looking for participants to help move our banner from Alaska to Florida: Click HERE.

 Click HERE to see the banner map.

 Want to become a Premium Member & not see these notices? Click HERE.

Want your truck considered for Truck Of The Month? Click HERE.

Don't forget to vote!

Old 07-12-2010, 07:34 AM   #2
dixie_boysles
Member
 
dixie_boysles's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: MA, NC
Posts: 426
Vehicle Year: 2006
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger XLT
I use this vehicle for: work and play
Rep Power: 11
dixie_boysles will become famous soon enough
Send a message via Yahoo to dixie_boysles
Default

i just had to use the ol' breaker bar and bump motor to get off the crank bolt on my 06!
__________________
2006 Ranger XLT 4x4 SuperCab
- 4.0L V6 SOHC Auto w/ 4.10s
- 15x8 Polished Aluminum Pacer 164s
- 31X10.50 BF Goodrich A/T KOs
www.fordrangerforum.com
dixie_boysles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2010, 05:33 PM   #3
red85
Member
 
red85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Kitchener, Ontario, CANADA
Posts: 1,129
Vehicle Year: 1985
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger
I use this vehicle for: making noise and burning gas
Rep Power: 17
red85 is on a distinguished road
Send a message via MSN to red85
Default

Every time I see someone using the method you did to remove a crank pulley, I just cringe! You did get lucky with the WD-40. I get all kinds of "I started to do this timing belt and now I can't do the job because (insert part here) broke". Whenever there is a puller available to remove something, USE THE PULLER!!!!!!! It may be a hassle to have to go out and get one, but it's a bigger hassle to have to replace a part because you butchered it. I'm not trying to be an ass, but I hate to see good people spending money they don't need to because of impatience. The statement about patience heat (just gentle heat!) time and beer is so very true! Glad to see you took pictures. Good job, man.

Phil
__________________
Professional Auto Service Tech

1996 Ranger XLT - 3.0 A4LD
1985 Ranger S - 306 ci/C4 (12.96 1/4)gone but not forgotten
1994 Ranger XL - 2.3T/M50D R1 (sadly retired now - Salt cancer got her)
2008 Ranger Sport - 3.0/M5OD R1

Don't ask a question if you don't want to hear the answer!
Putting brains before dollars since 1970
red85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2010, 07:16 PM   #4
Desert Rat 23
Junior Member
 
Desert Rat 23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: The scorched land of Arizona, where gun toting, bible thumping, inbread racists seam to be the norm.
Posts: 32
Vehicle Year: 1997
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger XLT
I use this vehicle for: Everyday driver, Work, Some play
Rep Power: 9
Desert Rat 23 is on a distinguished road
Default

Thanks. You know, I tried a jav puller but couldn't make it work. Wouldnt grip the back of the pulley. I just found this picture online, I don"t know what its gripping onto inside the pulley, but you're right, they are out there.

This was the other puller I grabbed. Got it home and ready to go before I realized it was for a different kind of pulley.
__________________
...and so I said "RECTUM!? Damn near killed um!"
Ignorance is expensive... Read, ask stupid questions, and learn.
Desert Rat 23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2010, 08:30 PM   #5
ragajungle
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Burlington, WI
Posts: 347
Vehicle Year: 1989
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Bronco II
I use this vehicle for: Wrench, Mud, Rinse, Repeat
Rep Power: 9
ragajungle is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by red85 View Post
Every time I see someone using the method you did to remove a crank pulley, I just cringe! You did get lucky with the WD-40. I get all kinds of "I started to do this timing belt and now I can't do the job because (insert part here) broke". Whenever there is a puller available to remove something, USE THE PULLER!!!!!!! It may be a hassle to have to go out and get one, but it's a bigger hassle to have to replace a part because you butchered it. I'm not trying to be an ass, but I hate to see good people spending money they don't need to because of impatience. The statement about patience heat (just gentle heat!) time and beer is so very true! Glad to see you took pictures. Good job, man.

Phil
Did the exact same thing on my Moms Aerostar back in the day and either messed up the harmonic Damper Pulley and or the Front main seal. Started leaking profusely and needed to rip it all apart again in the end to replace the FMS.
x2 for the puller
ragajungle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2010, 07:16 AM   #6
4b316
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 583
Vehicle Year: 1995
Vehicle Make: ford
Vehicle Model: ranger
Rep Power: 16
4b316 is on a distinguished road
Default

Jim,moderators,this needs to be made a sticky.good info
4b316 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2010, 08:12 AM   #7
Duane867
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Columbus
Posts: 1,960
Vehicle Year: 1993
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger
I use this vehicle for: Daily driver. Fishing vehicle. Use from time to time to run down crack heads.
Rep Power: 14
Duane867 is a jewel in the roughDuane867 is a jewel in the roughDuane867 is a jewel in the rough
Default

This thread is great ! Good job !
I figured I would add a valuable piece of info though if I may...
The only things that really needs to be removed to replace your timing belt are the drive belt, belt tensioner assembly, Idler pulley, fan and shroud, water pump pulley, crank pulley, crank pulley hub, and timing cover. You can pry the crank pulley off with a long crow bar straight through the top up against any thing solid you can gently pry against for leverage. It will pop right off with no damage from hammering. Use hammering as a last resort....

No need to remove the alternator or the bracket, no need to remove the ac and power steering either. No need to remove rad hoses and drain the system or the radiator either. Its all about how you finesse the cover around the PS/AC bracket towards the radiator and out of the truck.

Makes life so much easier it isn't even funny when you do a timing belt in a 2.3L.

Last edited by Duane867; 07-17-2010 at 08:16 AM.
Duane867 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2010, 08:53 AM   #8
mjonesjr
I dance with the Devil...


 
mjonesjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Salem, IN
Posts: 5,008
Rep Power: 10
mjonesjr is on a distinguished road
Default

Good post. I am submitting this for the Mag and the Tech Library.
__________________
I shall not surrender...
I shall not retreat...
I will stand here and fight...
Or I will stand here and die!

All men are created equal, then a few become firemen.

Support Our Troops!

mjonesjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2010, 04:29 PM   #9
scotts90ranger
Member
 
scotts90ranger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Salem Oregon
Posts: 2,950
Vehicle Year: 1990
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger
I use this vehicle for: holding down the driveway
Rep Power: 35
scotts90ranger is a jewel in the roughscotts90ranger is a jewel in the roughscotts90ranger is a jewel in the rough
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duane867 View Post
This thread is great ! Good job !
I figured I would add a valuable piece of info though if I may...
The only things that really needs to be removed to replace your timing belt are the drive belt, belt tensioner assembly, Idler pulley, fan and shroud, water pump pulley, crank pulley, crank pulley hub, and timing cover. You can pry the crank pulley off with a long crow bar straight through the top up against any thing solid you can gently pry against for leverage. It will pop right off with no damage from hammering. Use hammering as a last resort....

No need to remove the alternator or the bracket, no need to remove the ac and power steering either. No need to remove rad hoses and drain the system or the radiator either. Its all about how you finesse the cover around the PS/AC bracket towards the radiator and out of the truck.

Makes life so much easier it isn't even funny when you do a timing belt in a 2.3L.
on some of the newer ones there are brackets for some components in front of the timing cover...
__________________
converted to 4x4, turbo'd the 2.3, 6" lift with 35's and 5.13 gears!
Send e-mail instead of PM, box full...
scotts90ranger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2010, 01:50 AM   #10
Duane867
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Columbus
Posts: 1,960
Vehicle Year: 1993
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger
I use this vehicle for: Daily driver. Fishing vehicle. Use from time to time to run down crack heads.
Rep Power: 14
Duane867 is a jewel in the roughDuane867 is a jewel in the roughDuane867 is a jewel in the rough
Default

I reckon, but I haven't run across any yet. Last one did like that was for a friend in an 02 2.3L Ranger ( 2wd 5 speed ). Since I have done mine I have become the he reluctant go to guy with all my over do hard to get to to change Ranger parts :-(
Duane867 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
timing belt replacement

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:55 AM.




1999-2014 / 959 Media LLC / All Rights Reserved