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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Year: 2002
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger Supercab 4 Door
Posts: 79
Rep Power: 0 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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My brakes have been squeaking for a while. I took it in and the guy charged me 20 bucks and didnt solve the problem. I dont feel like taking it back in.
Just the right amound ot pressure on the break pedal and I get a high pitched squeak out of my breaks. My break pads are fine, theres about 70 percent left on my break pads. I was rotating my tires one day and spinnng my front left rotor you could kind of hear it. When I'm coming to a slow stop, its not a constant squeak, but on off on off on off on off quickly as I come to a stop. Moving faster it just sounds like one continuous squeak, but as you slow down below ten miles per hour, you can hear the pause in between the squeak. When i had my tires off and I was spinning my front left rotor you could hear it, like something was rubbing up against another thing. Not squeaking or grinding, but just rubbing. With enough brake pressure, it becomes a squeak, and only does it once my breaks get hot after about three or four stops. My break pads seem fine. My neighbor, a dealer for Ford and actually a member of the off road team Desert Assasins said my pads are fine. He said I should probably just replace them, but thats about 60 bucks and I dont have any work right now. Any one with this problem before and have any suggestions??? -Mike |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Kansas City
Year: 1994,1965
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger supercab, Mustang Coupe
Engine: 4.0, 302
Posts: 769
Rep Power: 13 ![]() iTrader: (1)
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Better pads, a higher quality pad is less likely to squeak. Also put brake grease on the BACK of the pad where it contacts the caliper. Make sure everything is tight down there two. Loss pads, or slide pins can cause it. Also when you get your rotors turned, if you can, just clean it with soap and water, yes soap and water, regular hand soap will work. This will get off the small small shavings from turning and keep them from building up on the pads.
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2949161 http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/c...t=40d9ecc0.pbw Specs: -'94 Ext. Cab 4x4, 4.0l 5 spd. 31x10.50x15 Wrangler AT/S. Warn Manual hubs. A tool box! -Tube bumper, needs welded to mounts -40 series Flowmaster. -5.5" Superduffcountry lift |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: tennesse
Year: 1985
Make: ford
Model: bornco ll
Engine: 4.0
Class: 4x4
Used For: what ever
Posts: 226
Rep Power: 12 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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you can also take your pad's off and lay them flat on some sandpaper(220 gr.) slide them back and forth a few time's to clean them off.
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85 bll with 4.0 eng. explorer rear leaf's with 2" blocks and front coils with the f-150 spacer's, 3" body lift and now on 33's |
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#4 |
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WRENCH WERKS
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: HIGHLAND, MICHIGAN
Year: 1994
Make: FORD
Model: RANGER
Engine: 3.0L
Class: 2WD OFF ROAD
Used For: EVERYTHING A RANGER CAN DO, AND LOTS OF THINGS IT SHOULDN'T
Posts: 2,723
Rep Power: 18 ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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sounds like you have a glazing problem. you rotor is probably slighlty warped from excessive heat and it is squeaking when that high, glazed spot passes through the pads. the inexpensive remedy is to remopve the pads and resurface them with sand paper and a flat block so that they stay relatively flat and have the rotors turned at a shop or parts store. i work for autovalue parts stores and constantly get warped rotors to turn. usually the customer has 30-40k on the car and the pads they bring in have about 50% life left, but usually the inboard pad is worn on an angle and the inside edge of the rotor is heavily glazed, which is hard to remove on the lathe without trashing a $20 cutting bit. hopefully you can take it apart and diagnose it soon because i know squeeking parts drive me crazy!
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1994 Ranger 4X2 Off Road, Built Not Bought! http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...ad.php?t=37621 |
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#5 |
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Yeah, I built that.
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Plymouth MA home, Buzzards Bay MA
Year: 1997, 1994
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger, F350
Engine: 4.0, 7.3
Class: 4x4 Extreme
Used For: Working and Wheeling
Posts: 3,822
Rep Power: 10 ![]() iTrader: (28)
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ore it might be movement in the caliper at the wheel rotates and as it moves back and forth as maybe because of a warped rotor, the moving caliper would be squeaking against the fixed bracket.
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Horsepower is how fast you hit a wall. Torque is how far you move a wall. http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...ad.php?t=21890 1994 F350 7.3L PSD, 5spd, DD/tow rig, 2wd for now... 1997 Excab/4.0/5spd/Manual1354/4.88/locked F/R /35"BFG MTs/WarnXD9000i/6"lift/HYDROBOOST!!/Extended radius arms/Wheeling only. |
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