my dual battery install!

-Nathan- · Apr 16, 2010

Long story short, I have a 9000lb winch coming Tuesday! super pumped. The current electrical system isnt going to cut it so duals it is...

...no pics yet...picked up everything i needed to do it.

The list is as follows:

- 2 motomaster eliminator 875 CCA batteries
- 13 ft 1/0 welding cable
- 4 gold plated terminals
- termination lugs
- 3 feet angle iron ( for aux battery tray)
- 2 sets battery hold-downs (original batt has no hold down ?!)
- may have forgot a few misc. things.

Im getting at it tomorrow, while simultaneously helping my buddy do an SAS on his toyota (dual t-cases, dual lockers, 37 irocs).

I will be wiring them in parallel, with NO isolator. I am doing this purposefully to avoid the hassle, and it doesnt much matter anyways, as I never plan on using the winch (to a great extent) without the engine running.

Ill post some pics tomorrow hopefully, as long as everything goes well

wish me luck!

(not actual battery)

Scotty J. · Apr 16, 2010

I'm considering a similar configuration, What are you going to charge them with? Stock Alt??

-Nathan- · Apr 16, 2010

yeah the stock 95 amp alt for now. BrendanK69 has been running this identical setup for 4 years now and it has run flawlessly. I plan maybe later this summer or whenever i get the chance to upgrade to a 130 amp unit.

With your lights and winch, what are you running? dual batts? alt?

LIMA BEAN · Apr 17, 2010

Man i would never run parallel up here its just too remote if the engine stalled for any reason... I want dedicated START. About 30 years ago i just used ford starter solenoids to separate them controlled by a toggle in the cab, just have to be dilligent with your switching. I carry a 12vdc solar panel now for last resort.

-Nathan- · Apr 17, 2010

we'll see how i like it. Ford uses this same setup with their diesels, new from the factory, just two batteries in parallel. Maybe you could throw up a diagram of your system for comparison?

COPPERHEAD85 · Apr 17, 2010

The twin batteries on the diesels not really setup for auxiliary loads,its for starting.
I run an isolator with 2 AGM batteries in the bed,1 for aux 1 for cab and motor.If i tank my aux battery I can still start my truck or I can flip a switch and tap into my starting battery for more juice on the 2nd battery.
The 2nd or aux battery can also be tapped for more starting power by the same switch.After all is said and done turn the switch off and both batteries get charged by one alt.

I started a write up on this last year but didnt get to finish it but I plan to this spring.

bcost882 · Apr 17, 2010

painless has a good isolator switch, also dual battery kits

-Nathan- · Apr 17, 2010

Hey guys, got it all done.

Made up a battery tray from 3/16 1" angle. Just cut the 45, bent it up and made sure it was square, and ran a bead.

here is the square base all welded up.

then i welded nuts to it, so i could use my hold down i purchased from princess auto...and of course a test fit.

then i had to add a bracket to attach it to the truck, used more angle.

here is the battery tray all finished (minus paint). I drilled two holes in the bottom bracket for bolts, and welded two studs on the side to attach it.

Here are a couple pics of how i mounted the tray in the engine bay. I used the space in front of the washer fluid/overflow reservoir. Almost like a second batt was made to go there.

these are what i used to connect the 1/0 welding cable between the batteries, as well as attaching the pre-existing wires. They are called termination lugs, work AWESOME.

Here is the second battery installed and wired up.

and here is the first battery, i added a hold down because for some odd reason mine didnt have one. I also rewired everything using the new connectors. Oh, and i also used new gold plated terminals

And here is the money shot, both new batteries, 1/0 welding cable connecting them, gold terminals, and new hold downs.

almost as if it came that way from the factory

COPPERHEAD85 · Apr 18, 2010

Looks great!

Schwinnstingray1964 · Apr 19, 2010

Saweet.

yyc_tbird_sc · Apr 20, 2010

If I were you, I'd get some crimp/solder on lugs onto the end of those cables rather than using the termination lugs. The reason I say this is because then you can heat shrink and seal the ends of the cable. This will protect the copper strands within the cable. You'll notice that there will be corrosion build up on the copper strands, and the end of the cable will actually start to peel away a little bit over time. Although on a 1 gauge cable this shouldn't affect it too much.

Your idea to use the stereo blocks on the battery is great, and it allows them to come off alot easier than the stock style connector.

Great job!!

_BEYONDER_ · Apr 24, 2010

Where did you relocate your washer fluid/rad over flow tank to?

daniel3507 · Apr 24, 2010

_BEYONDER_ said:
Where did you relocate your washer fluid/rad over flow tank to?

Its still in the stock location right behind the new battery.

_BEYONDER_ · Apr 24, 2010

ok......which battery is the original? The one on the drivers side or the one on the passenger side? Mine is on the passenger side and there's no way to get another bat in on the drivers side without moving the tanks ( on my explorer i mean ). Awsome thread though, looks good

daniel3507 · Apr 24, 2010

The driver side is the original. There just so happens to be an empty spot on the passenger side perfect for a battery so you dont have to move anything around.

my dual battery install!

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