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Old 03-17-2010, 06:36 AM   #1
kimcrwbr1
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Default synthetic or not

I put this engine in 5 years ago out of the bone yard and did the duraspark conversion with valve guide seals and she actually holds oil now. Would it be wise to put synthetic oil in a older 2.8 and what type of oil is the best and the best filter. I put about 1500 miles since the conversion and oil change with zero problems and running valvoline 10/30 now with a fram filter.tks Kim
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Old 03-17-2010, 12:55 PM   #2
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there are a number of threads here. all of them rate the Fram as the worst filter you can buy. Motorcraft, Purolator, NAPA Gold, and others all rate much better. think you'll find that the K&N filters aren't worth their price tag.
if you have no leaks, full synthetic should be ok. i always use a semi-synthetic for mine, but i haven't done the valve seals yet (latter this summer for sure!). typically 5W30 for winter and 10W40 for summer driving. i'm thinking of trying the Lucas additive once the valve seals are done. heard lots of good things about it. search for the threads and you should have all the info you need... imho.
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:29 PM   #3
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If you want to use synthetic, go ahead and use it. Don't believe all the myths that it will screw up your engine. It's just oil. But, you need to ask yourself what you're hoping to accomplish by using it. Unless you want to extend your drain intervals, or put a lot of stress on the engine, or drive in extreme temperatures, it's probably not that necessary.

And I do not recommend additives. I wouldn't put that Lucas crap in my lawnmower.
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Old 03-17-2010, 02:37 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by strvger View Post
there are a number of threads here. all of them rate the Fram as the worst filter you can buy. Motorcraft, Purolator, NAPA Gold, and others all rate much better. think you'll find that the K&N filters aren't worth their price tag.
if you have no leaks, full synthetic should be ok. i always use a semi-synthetic for mine, but i haven't done the valve seals yet (latter this summer for sure!). typically 5W30 for winter and 10W40 for summer driving. i'm thinking of trying the Lucas additive once the valve seals are done. heard lots of good things about it. search for the threads and you should have all the info you need... imho.
Hey thanks I put 10/40 castrol and a motorcraft filter in and am getting around 5-10 lbs more pressure and the power seems better less on the foot feed. I did the duraspark and valve guide seals huge difference on overall performance and I no longer have to wait to start it if someone is by the tail pipe he he (puff of black smoke). The only downfall is I have to get rid of more oil now it actually holds it. But I think I can get used to it
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Old 03-17-2010, 05:11 PM   #5
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glad to hear it worked out so well for you!
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Old 03-17-2010, 05:18 PM   #6
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Still wondering just who rates the Fram filter as being bad other than as said a "Lot of threads" say so. Anyone have some actual proof to back up those statements? Seen a lot of statements by some backyard "know-it-all" and in "His oppion, they are junk" just by looking at them.
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Old 03-17-2010, 06:05 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Mac View Post
Still wondering just who rates the Fram filter as being bad other than as said a "Lot of threads" say so. Anyone have some actual proof to back up those statements? Seen a lot of statements by some backyard "know-it-all" and in "His oppion, they are junk" just by looking at them.
Dave
Buy one and cut it open. You'll find that Fram uses a cardboard backing to the filter media, which is acceptable to tearing and letting the oil by-pass the filter. Most all other filters use a stamped metal filter media backing. Also, Fram uses less filter media than most others. On their PH8, the media is like 190 sq". While a PureOne or Motorcraft filter is 400 sq". More media for better filteration and longer life.

Now as for Fram motorcycle oil filters. They are actually pretty good and use a stamped metal backing.
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:28 PM   #8
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Newer oils have less zinc so as not to contaminate the cats. On an older engine I would say use a diesel-spec oil because they have more zinc, which flat tappet engines like a 2.8 like better. Shell Rotella 5w-40 synthetic is an excellent oil and doesn't cost a lot either. I would use a Motorcraft or NAPA Gold or Wix filter.
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:38 PM   #9
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I run an FL-1A, 4 qts Castrol High Mileage 10-30 conventional, and 1 qt Lucas.

@ Exbass:

I don't usually recommend oil additives either, but in older engines the Lucas is nice. My 2.9 will smoke, chatter, and have low power on 5 qts oil. On the 4:1 Oil/Lucas, good power, no smoke, and even the 2.9 tick goes away, along with the rest of the valve train chatter.

I know that means I have bigger issues, but it works for now, and the 2.9 is getting replaced in a year or two and I can't afford to have it down long enough to tear that far into the engine.
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Old 03-18-2010, 01:09 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyO View Post
Newer oils have less zinc so as not to contaminate the cats. On an older engine I would say use a diesel-spec oil because they have more zinc, which flat tappet engines like a 2.8 like better. Shell Rotella 5w-40 synthetic is an excellent oil and doesn't cost a lot either. I would use a Motorcraft or NAPA Gold or Wix filter.
What he said. Lack of zinc is a real problem with engine life, and especially cams.

Rotella synthetic 5W-40 is simply one of the best oils you can use, and when you consider the price, it may be the best hands down.
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