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- Jul 24, 2009
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- Transmission
- Automatic
SWAP COMPLETE
Truck: 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0 FFV 4x4
Explorer: 1999 Ford Explorer EB edition 5.0 2wd
Parts List:
-Complete Explorer 5.0L engine with all accessories
-Engine Wiring Harness
-PCM
-Battery cable harness
-Cruise cable
-Throttle cable
-Radiator hoses
-high pressure power steering hose and PS cooling line
-A/C lines
-Torque Monster Headers and Catalytic converters
-2wd Transmission(4R70W)
-Advance Adapter(AOD to BW transfercase adapter kit)
-Airbox, MAF, Zip tube, and Airbox tray
-Ranger Radiator
-Taurus E-Fan with Temp controller kit(70amp relay)
-5.0L Motor Mounts and Transmission Mount
Notes: Im using my existing Ranger randiator for the time being. If I have cooling issues then ill swap it out. I opted to buy a Taurus Efan and wiring kit for my truck. Hopefully this will keep my motor nice and cool. Im keeping my original Borg Warner Transfer Case in my truck but I need to buy an adapter kit for this. Advance Adapters makes a kit that replaces the output shaft and tail housing on your 4R70W transmission. Im taking the transmission down to a transmission shop because they have to rip open my transmission in order to replace the output shaft. Tail housing just bolts on over that output shaft in the rear of the tranny. The power steering hose that connects to the bottom of the resivor to the PS cooler on the ranger isnt long enough so you need to take the one from the explorer and install it. Also the Power Steering Cooler Brackets need to be bent down some in order for the oil pan to clear it. Its pretty soft metal so its easy to bend. 5.0 Motor Mounts and Transmission Mounts will bolt straight into the Ranger. I was installing the Explorer AirBox in my Ranger and found out that the Ranger tray is too small to fit explorer airbox on soooo you will need to swap that tray out too. The tray doesnt fit directly in the ranger so you will need to drill 2 new holes and put a sheet metal screw in there. I had to cut a part of the tray because it was coming in contact with a part of something in my engine bay, easy fix. The Battery Cable Harness I got from the explorer WILL NOT plug into the ranger chasis harness so what i did here was cut the wire loom on my Ranger Battery Cable Harness to take out the wires needed to plug in the Ranger chasis harness. The only thing needed to do is you might need to extend 1 wire to the starter. You can use your ground wiring(Big Black Wires) from the Ranger but you must use the Explorer Power wires(The big red wires going to fuse box, other going to starter). I opted for the Torque Monster Headers because they increase MPG and increase power. The factory Explorer exhaust manifolds are restrictive and hurts the motors performance. These are pricey but well worth it. Exhaust will need to be takin down to a shop and have them reroute your piping to make it fit properly or unless you have welding skills, then DIY. Im having my Truck towed down to the dealership to have my Ranger PATS and Keys synced with the Explorer Computer. That should be it, ill add as I go if I think of anything else.
Im going to add to this a little bit. The Advanced Adapter kit that i got is only 5 inchs, I wish they would have made a 6 or 7 inch adater becuase i had to get both my driveshafts worked. The rear needed to be lengthened about an 1 1/2 inches and the front needed to be shortened 1 1/2 inches. No biggie but wish i would have known this earlier. I do not think i have anything else about this swap that you need to know. Have any questions, please feel free to ask!!
Tips:
Ranger/Explorer Comparisions: Vehicle, Speed, Fuel and PATS
The 99-01 Explorer has the ABS/VSS from Rear Axle, No Fuel Return Line (Returnless) (56-72 psi), AND PATS(Type B)
The 99-00 Ranger has the ABS/VSS from Rear Axle, No Fuel Return Line(Returnless) (56-72 psi), AND PATS(Type B)
Advance Adapters:
This is WRONG INFO... When i measured this way, the 4R70W was 20.5inches long from bellhousing to where the tailhousing bolts on. The transmission in my truck measured 29.5 inches from bellhousing to transfercase. Cool, with those measurements i thought 9 inch adapter kit. Come to find out, when i installed the 5.0 in the truck and attempted to do a test fit with the transmission with the adapter on, it was too long. looks like the 5.0 sits further back in the transmission section about 4 inchs. So 5 inches is the right one i need now. Im guessing this is the measurement for all XLT rangers...

Here's My Progress so far:
The 5.0 Motor
The 3.0 Being Ripped out
Let it alllll drain out....
BYE BYE 3.SLOWWWWW
5.0L Motor Mount(pass side)
Cruise Control Cable
Throttle cable
High Pressure Power Steering Hose(kinda hard to see, but in that manifold of 4 fittings, its the bottom right hand side in the pic)
INNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
And These Torque Monster Headers
Ill add to this as I go on, this is where i stopped. I still need some parts to come in before i finish. Transmission still needs to be taken down once i get the adapter plate in. Almost done, cant wait to fire her up and see how she performs
Truck: 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0 FFV 4x4
Explorer: 1999 Ford Explorer EB edition 5.0 2wd
Parts List:
-Complete Explorer 5.0L engine with all accessories
-Engine Wiring Harness
-PCM
-Battery cable harness
-Cruise cable
-Throttle cable
-Radiator hoses
-high pressure power steering hose and PS cooling line
-A/C lines
-Torque Monster Headers and Catalytic converters
-2wd Transmission(4R70W)
-Advance Adapter(AOD to BW transfercase adapter kit)
-Airbox, MAF, Zip tube, and Airbox tray
-Ranger Radiator
-Taurus E-Fan with Temp controller kit(70amp relay)
-5.0L Motor Mounts and Transmission Mount
Notes: Im using my existing Ranger randiator for the time being. If I have cooling issues then ill swap it out. I opted to buy a Taurus Efan and wiring kit for my truck. Hopefully this will keep my motor nice and cool. Im keeping my original Borg Warner Transfer Case in my truck but I need to buy an adapter kit for this. Advance Adapters makes a kit that replaces the output shaft and tail housing on your 4R70W transmission. Im taking the transmission down to a transmission shop because they have to rip open my transmission in order to replace the output shaft. Tail housing just bolts on over that output shaft in the rear of the tranny. The power steering hose that connects to the bottom of the resivor to the PS cooler on the ranger isnt long enough so you need to take the one from the explorer and install it. Also the Power Steering Cooler Brackets need to be bent down some in order for the oil pan to clear it. Its pretty soft metal so its easy to bend. 5.0 Motor Mounts and Transmission Mounts will bolt straight into the Ranger. I was installing the Explorer AirBox in my Ranger and found out that the Ranger tray is too small to fit explorer airbox on soooo you will need to swap that tray out too. The tray doesnt fit directly in the ranger so you will need to drill 2 new holes and put a sheet metal screw in there. I had to cut a part of the tray because it was coming in contact with a part of something in my engine bay, easy fix. The Battery Cable Harness I got from the explorer WILL NOT plug into the ranger chasis harness so what i did here was cut the wire loom on my Ranger Battery Cable Harness to take out the wires needed to plug in the Ranger chasis harness. The only thing needed to do is you might need to extend 1 wire to the starter. You can use your ground wiring(Big Black Wires) from the Ranger but you must use the Explorer Power wires(The big red wires going to fuse box, other going to starter). I opted for the Torque Monster Headers because they increase MPG and increase power. The factory Explorer exhaust manifolds are restrictive and hurts the motors performance. These are pricey but well worth it. Exhaust will need to be takin down to a shop and have them reroute your piping to make it fit properly or unless you have welding skills, then DIY. Im having my Truck towed down to the dealership to have my Ranger PATS and Keys synced with the Explorer Computer. That should be it, ill add as I go if I think of anything else.
Im going to add to this a little bit. The Advanced Adapter kit that i got is only 5 inchs, I wish they would have made a 6 or 7 inch adater becuase i had to get both my driveshafts worked. The rear needed to be lengthened about an 1 1/2 inches and the front needed to be shortened 1 1/2 inches. No biggie but wish i would have known this earlier. I do not think i have anything else about this swap that you need to know. Have any questions, please feel free to ask!!
Tips:
Ranger/Explorer Comparisions: Vehicle, Speed, Fuel and PATS
The 99-01 Explorer has the ABS/VSS from Rear Axle, No Fuel Return Line (Returnless) (56-72 psi), AND PATS(Type B)
The 99-00 Ranger has the ABS/VSS from Rear Axle, No Fuel Return Line(Returnless) (56-72 psi), AND PATS(Type B)
Advance Adapters:
This is WRONG INFO... When i measured this way, the 4R70W was 20.5inches long from bellhousing to where the tailhousing bolts on. The transmission in my truck measured 29.5 inches from bellhousing to transfercase. Cool, with those measurements i thought 9 inch adapter kit. Come to find out, when i installed the 5.0 in the truck and attempted to do a test fit with the transmission with the adapter on, it was too long. looks like the 5.0 sits further back in the transmission section about 4 inchs. So 5 inches is the right one i need now. Im guessing this is the measurement for all XLT rangers...
Tachometer:Measuring for the adapter:
Measure your stock transmission from the front of the bell housing back to the flange where the transfer case bolts to the transmission tailhousing. Now, measure the distance from the front of your new 4R70W back to where the tailhousing bolts on. In the photo below, you will see the new tailhousing bolted on for an idea of where to stop measuring to. Subtract the distance of the new 4R70W minus the tailhousing from the measurement you took from your original transmission back to the transfer case. The difference in length will tell you how long of a tailhousing you need to keep the Ranger transfer case in the stock location.
Speedometer:Here's how you modify your Ranger tachometer for V-8 use:
1) Get your dash apart and disconnect the cluster
2) If you have a EVTM turn to the Instrument cluster section
3) Locate Pin 8 on wire connector C216 (Black/Yellow Wire)
4) Use a very small flathead screwdriver to release the pin from the connector housing
5) Find Connector C214 (largest of the 3 for cluster)
6) Install the wire removed from C216 in to slot 16 on C214. This slot is currently vacant.
7) Put everything back together and fire it up. You're all done.
PATS:1998-2000 Rangers: 1999-2001 Explorer uses the same type of speedometer system as the 1998-2000 Ranger - no modifications needed. The 1998-2000 Rangers are not equipped with a VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) receives vehicle speed information from the antilock brake system rear wheel speed sensor. The raw signal from the ABS/VSS sensor on the rear axle goes directly to the Explorer 4WABS module where the signal is corrected for tire diameter. Then the corrected signal is sent to the PCM, speed control, cluster, etc. In this system, the PCM is an end user of the corrected VSS signal.
My 5.0 Motor inside the ExplorerThe 1999-2001 Explorer PATS is 100% compatible with a 1999-2000 V6 Ranger. If the Explorer PATS module and keys are also transplanted to the Ranger, they should work immediately with the Explorer PCM. If the original Ranger PATS module and keys are reused with the Explorer PCM, a dealer would have to "introduce" the new parts to each other before the engine could start.

Here's My Progress so far:
The 5.0 Motor




The 3.0 Being Ripped out











Let it alllll drain out....


BYE BYE 3.SLOWWWWW



5.0L Motor Mount(pass side)

Cruise Control Cable

Throttle cable

High Pressure Power Steering Hose(kinda hard to see, but in that manifold of 4 fittings, its the bottom right hand side in the pic)

INNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN

And These Torque Monster Headers

Ill add to this as I go on, this is where i stopped. I still need some parts to come in before i finish. Transmission still needs to be taken down once i get the adapter plate in. Almost done, cant wait to fire her up and see how she performs
Last edited: