Over heating

warrior24 · Aug 14, 2009

I got some overheating issues Replaced the clutch and fan, flushed coolant and new t-stat ( yes it has a hole in it so no vapour lock). So I get hot air when I turn on the heater to cool it down, the heater air temp is very close to the water temperature reading. This makes me think my heater core is not plugged. But leads me to believe my radiator is plugged, or water pump. Any way to be sure its the radiator. I am getting a high temp of 240.

Big Jim M · Aug 15, 2009

Howdy W24

When does it reach 240? Does it PUKE it's coolant out? Does the temp go down to normal under different circumstances? How do you KNOW the temp is 240? Does it have a 195* thermostat in it or lower? It does need the 195* in it..
If it doesn't lose it's coolant your problem may be the gauge is not telling the truth to you.
Big JIm :wub:

warrior24 · Aug 15, 2009

It reaches 240* during stop and go traffic.No it does not puke any coolant. When I am on the free-way 60-65mph it goes down to normal. It does have a 195* t-stat.

nitrofan1 · Aug 15, 2009

Poor man's visual. When it's cold start it and pop the cap. Look for flow of the coolant as it warms up. When the stat opens you should see movement of the coolant. Get a flashlight handy just in case you don't have direct light into the radiator. If no flow is seen then you have a plug up some where. Get it to a radiator shop for a pro flushing and hopefully that will handle it. They can also pressure check the system too.

Big Jim M · Aug 16, 2009

I wouldn't give it a second thought.

warrior24 said:
It reaches 240* during stop and go traffic.No it does not puke any coolant. When I am on the free-way 60-65mph it goes down to normal. It does have a 195* t-stat.

Sounds normal to me.. If it don't puke and runs in NORMAL at hiway speeds I'd not think aboout it again. Might just be an overly sensitive sending unit.
If it really had problems it WOULD PUKE!
Big JIm :wub:

big91explorer · Aug 16, 2009

Do you have the fan shroud on? Or electric fans?

warrior24 · Aug 16, 2009

Yes fan shroud its non electric. I was having same issues before I replaced the stock cracked fan with an after market metal one.

Big Jim M · Aug 17, 2009

warrior24 said:
Yes fan shroud its non electric. I was having same issues before I replaced the stock cracked fan with an after market metal one.

Another question... Is your gauge marked 240? If not how do you know the temp is 240?
Big JIm :wub:

warrior24 · Aug 17, 2009

yeah its marked 240 I have an after market one. Would it be possible that since I have one of my transmission cooler lines with a drip around 3 tbsp while parked thus causing the torque converter to not operate as effective since its loosing pressure resulting in the engine work harder thus overheat.

Big Jim M · Aug 17, 2009

Nope!

warrior24 said:
yeah its marked 240 I have an after market one. Would it be possible that since I have one of my transmission cooler lines with a drip around 3 tbsp while parked thus causing the torque converter to not operate as effective since its loosing pressure resulting in the engine work harder thus overheat.

Not likely.. I wouldn't be trusting that gauge one bit! What you are seeing is zackly why MOPAR and others don't put temps on their gauges.. A simple N-O-R-M-A-L written in the center of the gauge doesn't scare folks like having specefic temps marks does.
Always remember the engine can take 300 or more degrees and actually run BETTER at those high temps. What can't take them temps is the water based coolant!
If it don't puke...forget about it.. Maybe install another brand of gauge to see if the one you have now is lieing to you.
Big JIm :wub:

warrior24 · Aug 17, 2009

Ok I used a candy thermometer stuck into the radiator and got like 7 Degrees less than what my gauge was reading. So are you suggesting I run some coolant that isn't water based? Although I did get it to puke with the radiator cap off but that was to be expected.

Big Jim M · Aug 17, 2009

Nope!

warrior24 said:
Ok I used a candy thermometer stuck into the radiator and got like 7 Degrees less than what my gauge was reading. So are you suggesting I run some coolant that isn't water based? Although I did get it to puke with the radiator cap off but that was to be expected.

I'm saying you have an imagined problem.. Your ride will most likely stay in the NORMAL range on your stock gauge! You have installed another gauge that is alarming you unnecessarily. Wait until it pukes out it's coolant and then worry about what caused the overheating. The temp rise in stop and go traffic in the middle of summer is NORMAL!
As for coolant that won't boil.. PURE ethylene glycol will get icy/slushy at around 0* F. But it won't boil till about 400*.. So if you don't expect your ride to see below 0*, running pure ethylene glycol would be advised for all engines.
Since the pure ethylene glycol doesn't have water in it and is an oily liquid your coolant pump will last nearly forever and there will no NO RUST in the engine. Adding water to ethylene glycol actually lowers the temperature at which it begins to turn to an icy/slushy mixture.
Here in central Texas I always use the pure stuff and never mix water in it. I have visited all the western mountain states in the fall early winter with no bad results. However I am aware that the pure ethylene glycol will freeze and bust engines in certain parts of this country.
I do own a Bobcat. My Bobcat has about 5 gallons of 40W oil in it. This 5 gallons is circulated thru all the engine components. It goes thru the cooling jackets and thru the radiator and then thru the engine lubricating it.. THAT is all that is in there! 40W oil! So see, water isn't needed to cool an engine.
Big JIm :wub:

warrior24 · Aug 18, 2009

Ok thanks guys I just wont pay as much attention to the temps.

warrior24 · Aug 24, 2009

Update it officially puked. Now what? Radiator or water-pump?

el_conquistador · Aug 24, 2009

All this talk of "puking" I thought we were talking about a 6.0L powerstroke.

Over heating

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