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#1 |
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New Member
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hey i got a question, the other day when i was on a trail, my serpentine belt started squeeling like a pig, and so i drove to the mechanic, and told him what had happened. He explained thAT MY AC COMPRESSOR's clutch had locked up and needed to be replaced. the ac in my truck has never worked and quite frankly, i would like to be running dual alternators, simply because i have two of them. does anyone know who sells a bracket that will convert the ac mounting holes to alternator mounting holes? and if so what belt do i need?
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#2 |
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"Outlaw"
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chillicothe, Illinois
Year: 1991
Make: Chevrolet
Model: K-3500
Engine: TBI 350
Class: 4x4 Extreme
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Brackets and belts are the least of your worries. I never figured out the controls behind dual alternators. I also heard of many guys that plow who opted for teh Ford option having trouble with them.
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Trail Rig (1) - 1991 Chevy Silverado - [Build Thread] (SOLD 12/2/2011) Trail Rig (2) - 2007 Polaris Sportsman 500HO EFI Tow Rig - 2004 Dodge Ram CTD - [Build Thread] Earth Resin Offroad |
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#4 |
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RBV Technical Advisor
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: East-Central Pennsylvania
Year: 1987... sorta
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger Supercab
Engine: '93 4.0
Class: 4x4
Used For: Roadtrip Warrior
Posts: 7,169
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You are aware that there is a 130Amp alernator that is a bolt-on to any enine that uses a 3-bolt mount alternator, right?
So the '91-up 2.3's, 3.0 and 4.0 engines can have a 130amp alternator... I just found an econoline with a 7.3powerstroke in it. I didn't have the right tools to get it off but I'm going back tomorrow. I don't know if that will fit my 4.0, but I'm for damned sure gonna try. It's a 200-something amp alternator. AD
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Gun Control - A theory espoused by some monumentally stupid people; who claim to believe, against all logic and common sense, that a violent predator who ignores the laws prohibiting them from robbing, raping, kidnapping, torturing and killing their fellow human beings will obey a law telling them that they cannot own a gun. |
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#5 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Columbus, Indiana
Year: 1989
Make: Ford
Model: Bronco II
Engine: 4.0
Class: 4X4
Used For: a chicken house
Posts: 5,855
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All you have to do is treat it like 2 seperate electrical systems--hook the thing that you need the extra current for to an auxillary battery and the second alternator goes only to that battery. Then I would connect the two batteries together with a heavy cable and a simple ON/OFF switch like this in case you needed to jump the main battery.
But I doubt you really need the second alternator. It's a complication. Keeping the stock system in top shape is a better option. And onboard air--yeah, that's a good use for the AC compressor. I should do that.
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'83 Ranger cab, '89 B2 frame, 4.0, C5, D35/8.8, 4.10s, Lockrights. '87 Chevy crew 6.2 Banks turbodiesel TH400 GearVendors 4.10 14-bolt Detroit '96 VW Passat Tdi '00 Ford E350 15-pax Powerstroke '09 Suzuki TU250X '04 Moto Guzzi Breva http://willwills.com/ |
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#7 |
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Member
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Its much easier to just run a bigger alternator like a 200amp. Right now im looking at one that puts out 130 amps at 800 rpm and 200 amps at 1500 rpm. So just driving along really slow will charge my battery in minutes. I also plan on going dual battery and having them seperated were I can either run one or the other or both at the same time. I think thats definatly the way to go if your running a lot of accessories.
Heres a link to the kit http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-DUAL-AUXILIA...QQcmdZViewItem
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1993 3.0 4x4 ranger |
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#8 |
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New Member
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ya i know i could run just a single high output alternator, but i dont want to replace the ac compressor...to much money and heck it still wont work.
i'm running a 130 amp alternator right now, and 4 capacitors, along with an optima battery, but its still not enough when youre pushing over 6,000 watts, and drawing around 200 amps. believe me i DO have a reson for doing it...thanks guys, ya'll rock! |
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#9 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Westport, WA
Year: 1993
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger, Flareside
Engine: 3-point-GO
Class: 4x4
Used For: Attracting the ladies
Posts: 6,938
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6,000 watts at 14 volts is 428 amps. i have my doubts that your running this serious of a system (peak and RMS wattage are two different animals)...and if you are, your certainly not running it while your in the truck. in that case you could connect a couple of deep cycle batteries to power your system while your at a show, then use your high output alternator to charge them on the drive home.
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Last edited by Wicked_Sludge : Today at 09:16 PM. |
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Calgary, Canada
Year: 2001
Make: Chrysler
Model: PT "Loser" Cruiser
Engine: 2.4L
Class: FWD
Posts: 738
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Why not just remove the A/C compressor and either run a shorter belt or buy a pulley kit where its a bracket with an idler pulley mounted to it that mounts up to the factory a/c compressor location to keep the same factory belt size, or is that idea flawed or am I just thinking to simple and not leaving you a project?
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#12 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Westport, WA
Year: 1993
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger, Flareside
Engine: 3-point-GO
Class: 4x4
Used For: Attracting the ladies
Posts: 6,938
Rep Power: 25 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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as far as i know, noone makes such a bracket...although with access to a few basic machining tools, it wouldnt be hard to fashion one.
i still think your making an overly elaborate (and thus, problematic) solution to a simple or non existant problem. even if you pushed half that power RMS (i still doubt you push 3,000 watts while your anywhere near the truck, and for any length of time), a 200 amp alternator would be sufficient to run it.
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As seen on the internets! Quote:
Quote:
Last edited by Wicked_Sludge : Today at 09:16 PM. |
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