How do I install an ammeter

[tootalltechie]

I bought a low cost triple gauge set, oil pressure Manual, water temp Electrical, 60 amp ammeter gauge. To put into my 1986 2.9L ranger. The gauge set came with very sketchy instructions. ie no wire size, length or where to hook them up. I figure + battery and alternator charging circuit, but what wire, what color?
any help?
hint maybe this would be a good think for the Technical Library

[tootalltechie]

Originally Posted by tootalltechie

I bought a low cost triple gauge set, oil pressure Manual, water temp Electrical, 60 amp ammeter gauge. To put into my 1986 2.9L ranger. The gauge set came with very sketchy instructions. ie no wire size, length or where to hook them up. I figure + battery and alternator charging circuit, but what wire, what color?
any help?
hint maybe this would be a good think for the Technical Library

While working around the starter solenoid I found a few fusible links that were corroded and will need replacement soon. The question I have is. What is the bestway to replace the fusiable link, 1 fuse, 2 breaker, 3 fusible link

thanks for any info

[MAKG]

The ammeter goes in series with all those fusible links, if you want to measure charging current (the usual application). If you want to measure some other current, it goes in series with that circuit. Do NOT include cranking or you'll blow it up on the first start.

10 gauge wiring is probably adequate for the current that ammeter can read. 12 gauge is pushing it.

As for replacing the fusible link, it really doesn't matter what with as long as the current rating is correct.

[tootalltechie]

Originally Posted by MAKG

The ammeter goes in series with all those fusible links, if you want to measure charging current (the usual application). If you want to measure some other current, it goes in series with that circuit. Do NOT include cranking or you'll blow it up on the first start.

10 gauge wiring is probably adequate for the current that ammeter can read. 12 gauge is pushing it.

As for replacing the fusible link, it really doesn't matter what with as long as the current rating is correct.

What would the colur of the charging current wire be?

[85crownHPP]

its generally a bad idea to re-route your alternator wiring inside your dash and back to the battery, which is what you would have to do to install that gauge.

I would swap it out for a volt meter.

[MAKG]

I've certainly heard that statement, but what's so bad about it?

The only issue I see is the unengineered aftermarket wiring has to be carefully designed never to chafe. It should be fused (probably 60A -- two 30A in parallel if you can't find a 60A) just in case it does or there is an installation error. But it's a 12V (well, 14V) system, so there is no safety issue.

[85crownHPP]

becuase the longer a wire is, the more resistance it has, and resistance = heat (unless you plan to upgrade the size of the wire)
with the lights, AC and other acessories on you can easily pull 30-40 amps... with a powerfull stereo and or electric fan 40-100 amps... all of this would have to run through your gauge... do you really want 100 amps of current running through some cheap made in china who knows how old doohickey???

also if yours is a 2g alternator they can be flame throwers... I wouldnt press your luck!!!
They make ammeter gauges with remote sensors you can just clip over a wire. If you must have one please get that type!!!!!!!

[MAKG]

I really don't have much trouble with 100A running at 12V in the cab. That's 1200W, comparable to a hairdryer or toaster. Almost all of which are also made in China. Though only the starter is actually going to draw that much (which is why it should be excluded). If it bothers you, fuse it. You can double a fuse rating by putting two in parallel if you can't find one big enough (I think you will, though).

The current is not relevant to safety. It's 12V. You're not even going to notice it if you "zap" yourself. You can try touching both battery terminals with your fingers if you like. Just wash your hands (lead).

As for the resistance, I would suggest you measure the resistance of 10 feet of 10 gauge wire. We're not talking about significant losses here.

The only issue I'd be concerned about is a short to ground damaging the battery or melting whatever shorted. A fuse would take care of that. I've personally blown one of these up by pinching it with the engine while removing it and shorting it agains the firewall.

[85crownHPP]

Sure it can be done safely with upgraded wiring and circuit protection, but yes a combination of stereo, acessories and fans can easily pull 100 amps which is well out of the range of his meter.
There is a chance of electric failure here, and obviously toot is new to wiring things, Im just trying to help prevent Ford fires

[Will]

I don't think it's a "big" enough gauge. I wouldn't do it.

The concern is obviously a fire when your talking about wiring one of those. It's never a solid installation--those little 3-gauge panels work loose etc.. I don't see the point.

Much better is a volt meter. It will indicate the same thing as the ammeter and there's no worries as it draws very little current. When your alternator isn't keeping up, the volts are low--like less than 12. When it's keeping up, the volts are higher--like around 14. When you first start the engine, the volts are low, which indicates a high amp draw by the battery to recover. As the the battery recovers, the amps reduce and the volts gain. So after you start, you see the volts coming back up, all is well.