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| Interior Seats, carpet, consoles and interior panels. Speaker/sub enclosures go in the Audio & Video forum. Forum sponsored by Aqua Graphix |
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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Bay Area, CA
Year: 2010
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger XLT
Engine: 4.0 V6
Class: 2WD Street
Used For: Daily driver and being a "friend with a truck"
Posts: 253
Rep Power: 10 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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It seems like a really stupid question but:
How do I remove those "xmas tree" interior panel fasteners without breaking them? If I redo my headliner, I know I'll need to take out a bunch of those and in trying to remove one, it looked and felt like the head was going to snap right off. If anyone has any tips on removing those without breaking them, I'd love to hear. I've got some decent interior panel removal tools that seem just right for getting under the head of the fastener and around the xmas tree shaft. But still, I'd like to hear more before yanking those puppies out. |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Between Omaha & Des Moines
Year: 1985
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 5.0
Class: 4x4
Used For: A weapon of massive consumption.
Posts: 11,201
Rep Power: 51 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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After destroying several of mine with flathead screwdrivers I came across a tool that is supposed to do it without breaking them. It looks like a small gasket scraper/prybar thing with a V shape cut in the end of it.
Since I got it I haven't had to pull one...
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1985 Ford Ranger Custom, 4x4, PA 3" BL, 5.0 HO wannabe, C5 Transmixer, 31 spline T/L 8.8 w/ disc brakes. Build Thread My Ranger is not old; no one would call her old. She has a bluff bow, lovely lines. She's a fine truck: weatherly, stiff and fast... very fast, if she's well handled. No, she's not old; she's in her prime. |
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#3 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Roanoke, VA
Year: 1994
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 2.3 Lima
Class: 2WD
Posts: 2,724
Rep Power: 10 ![]() iTrader: (1)
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I've always wanted to try one of those tools to see if they actually work. So far I've just reconciled myself to breaking them every time.
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#4 |
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WRENCH WERKS
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: HIGHLAND, MICHIGAN
Year: 1994
Make: FORD
Model: RANGER
Engine: 3.0L
Class: 2WD OFF ROAD
Used For: EVERYTHING A RANGER CAN DO, AND LOTS OF THINGS IT SHOULDN'T
Posts: 2,723
Rep Power: 18 ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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ive always just used the panel removal tools when taking them out, but i ran into the need to make a larger one for my under hood padding so i just welded a fender washer to a screw driver and nipped one side out of it.
![]() ![]() i was thinking i may have needed to put a bend in the shaft for leverage but it worked out well
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1994 Ranger 4X2 Off Road, Built Not Bought! http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...ad.php?t=37621 |
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Bay Area, CA
Year: 2010
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger XLT
Engine: 4.0 V6
Class: 2WD Street
Used For: Daily driver and being a "friend with a truck"
Posts: 253
Rep Power: 10 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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> gasket scraper/prybar thing with a V shape cut in the end of it.
That's the tool I got. Here's a pic: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99739 As you would guess and typical of HF "quality," those puppies are a little too flexible for my taste, but a lot better than nothing. |
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#6 | |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Davisburg, Mi.
Year: 1984, 1997
Make: Ford
Model: Rangers
Engine: 302, 2.3
Used For: Literally everything.
Posts: 1,666
Rep Power: 18 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (1)
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Quote:
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"The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits" - Albert Einstein Never give up: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6hz_s2XIAU 1984 Ranger - std cab, long bed: The Deathtrap 302; T18; D20 Tcase; 6' lift; 4.56 gears; 33' pro comp MT's; Aussie locked rear 1997 Ranger - std cab, short bed: Red Ranger 2.3L; M50D R1; 2wd; 4.56 gears; Explorer 8.8; ARB locker; 235/75R15 AT's (soon to undergo 4x4 conversion |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Bay Area, CA
Year: 2010
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger XLT
Engine: 4.0 V6
Class: 2WD Street
Used For: Daily driver and being a "friend with a truck"
Posts: 253
Rep Power: 10 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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It's all about the color. Finding the right sized snap is no problem. For those who haven't shopped there yet, these guys are great:
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/ If I had black trim, I'd slice them all off with a razor knife and just plop a new set in. No Ford dealers have stock on the old trim pieces. So, if I can get most or all of them out in one piece it would be great. |
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#8 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: west tennessee
Year: 85
Make: ford
Model: ranger
Engine: 302
Class: 4x4
Used For: Yard Decoration
Posts: 3,518
Rep Power: 24 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (6)
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I broke down and bought one when I had to replace the regulator in the wifes jeep,wish i had of got it a long time ago.Works great.
Nice job offroad!That should work better than the store bought!
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Stabbings aren't funny Beatings aren't funny Clowns aren't funny But Beating and Stabbing a Clown...Thats Funny! |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Bay Area, CA
Year: 2010
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger XLT
Engine: 4.0 V6
Class: 2WD Street
Used For: Daily driver and being a "friend with a truck"
Posts: 253
Rep Power: 10 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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When you guys pull those fasteners, do you yank the f#$^ out of them or try to slowly wiggle them out?
I got a couple of them out in tact, but they were a bear. I'm curious if giving them a good yank makes them more likely to break or maybe more likely to pop out in one piece. |
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Barrie ON Canada
Year: 1998
Make: MAZDA
Model: B4000 SX 4X4
Engine: 4.0L
Class: 4x4
Used For: Truck Stuff
Posts: 2,909
Rep Power: 31 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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I use the claw on my hammer and pull them like nails, never broken one yet.
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Elwood: "It's 106 miles to Chicago, we got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and we're wearing sunglasses." Jake: "Hit it."
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#11 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: riner va
Year: 2002
Make: ford
Model: ranger
Engine: 4.0
Class: 4x4
Used For: everything
Posts: 479
Rep Power: 8 ![]() iTrader: (1)
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i used a nail puller that deck builders use and that worked perfect and i was taking a headliner out
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hi tech redneck |
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Whitehorse, YT
Year: 1993
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger Interceptor
Engine: 245 CID
Class: 4x4 Off-Road
Used For: Truck Stuff
Posts: 5,256
Rep Power: 28 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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I use a tool like this I got from princess auto
http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=683 I usually pull with my hands, removed an explorer door panel today and didn't break any
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1993 4x4 project: FX4 Level III <-Click 4.0L, A4LD, 3.27's, 2" Washer lift, Sway bar pins, Flexy rear leaves, Rancho shocks, Belltech 6400's, 3" BL, 32" Goodyear Wrangler MTR-K's |
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