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|05-22-2009, 12:08 PM||#1|
89 Linked Ranger Build (LOTS of pics)
Hey guys.... This is not my Ranger, it's my brothers truck. But, thus far, we've been building it together. I'll start the build thread with some background info (these next pics are from last summer):
It all started when my brother traded his laptop for a 1989 Ranger.
BYE BYE TTB!!!!!!!!
And hello fullsize D44!!
Here's the fullsize Ford 9" that got swapped in (came out of my '79 Ford when I did the 14B FF swap).
Ready for some testing!
Stuck already...... My truck to the rescue!!
Something doesn't look right.....?
So after destroying the rear leaf springs at the end of the 2008 season we decided that we were going to do it RIGHT for the next summer of wheeling. And doing it RIGHT includes these heim joints:
We started off my yanking the bed off, removed all the leaf spring mounts, and moved the rear axle 12 inches forward.
Then we fabbed up a new crossmember.
Here's the truss we built for the rear axle.
And we've got lower links!!!
And here's the mount for the upper links.
We cut some steel to fit inside the truss.... We haven't welded it in yet, cause we haven't decided what sort of design to cut out of it yet.
Frame is boxed in.
Nice and strong tabs for the upper mounts!!
And the 2nd set of tabs are in place for the upper links.
And it's officially a 4-link!
Checking for any binding... And so far so good!!!
Time to chop off the excess frame!!
Then it got boxed in.
Links all welded up.
Some stuff coated in chassis saver.
Tabs boxed in and welded up.
Rear tow point all built.
Lower link frame mounts boxed in, welded, and coated.
The interior got some work done to it as well.... Fire extinguisher was mounted, built a grab bar, made a cool custom tcase shifter, and threw in some crappy free bucket seats from a friend (temporary, they're much better than the water logged bench seat).
More tabs boxed in.
And some steel was added to the rear for strength.
Then we setup a piece of wood and a clamp to be able to drive the truck outside (using front wheel drive).
So yes... In these pics, the rear is sitting lower than it will when the coils are mounted in.
MASSIVE rear tow point... Haha! It's awesome!!!
Bottom coil buckets being built.
The rollbar that will get welded up and mounted (we need to build special mounts because there will be no bed floor).
And lower coil buckets tacked into place and the coils bolted in.
This is what holds down the coil in the bottom bucket.
Next are some pics of the adjustable top part of the coil buckets. We're making them adjustable so that the ride height can be changed, as well as various different coils can be installed incase he wants something longer or shorter, and stiffer or softer.
And since there won't be a bed floor anymore, the rollbar is getting some custom mounts to bolt to the frame.
And we made the top plates for the coils.
Wow.... That's LOTS of pics!!! Hahaha! I hope you guys enjoy them. The upcoming updates will have much less pics in them. This first post was a compilation of work done over a few weeks.
Anyways, we're hoping to finish the coil mounts tonight, along with a few other things. And then maybe this weekend we'll be able to fully flex the truck and figure out where to mount the shocks. Then, after doing a few finishing touches... It's TEST TIME!!!! We can't wait!!! Then, give us a month or so to do some trail runs and whatnot... And then the Ranger goes back into the shop to get a new front suspension built.
|05-22-2009, 03:19 PM||#2|
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: New Mexico
Vehicle Year: 1988
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger
I use this vehicle for: funRep Power: 16
looks like good work to me nice job
1988 ford ranger 2.3, 3 in lift, 31 inch tires
things you need to wheel 1 duct tape fixs everything
2 bailing wire preastoric duct tape
3 zip ties modern day duct tape
|05-22-2009, 05:56 PM||#4|
September 2009 OTOM Winner
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: back in San Diego, CA
Vehicle Year: 2002
Vehicle Make: Ranger/Explorer
Vehicle Model: Fx4/Rubicon
I use this vehicle for: dd and time consumptionRep Power: 17
thos hiems are gonna wear out fast. i would have spent the extra few bucks on some FK hiems instead.
|05-22-2009, 10:34 PM||#5|
The heims you're talking about are about triple the price of ours.... We're building this on a budget. If the heims get a good cleaning after every trip, I'm sure they'll last long enough to keep us happy! Only time will tell I suppose.
Anyways, we worked a bit more on the Ranger tonight. Started off by getting the u-bolts in the top coil buckets. These will be awesome for flexing the truck (much stronger than a typical coil clip).
Here we are figuring out approximately how much the coils will sag with all the weight on them.
And we got the top adjustable coil mount all tacked together, and then checked the ride height.
LOOK MOMMY!!! It can support our weight without any jackstands or anything.... WEEEEE!!!!!
Tomorrow, the top coil mount gets gussets and all the finishing welds, and then we'll flex her out and figure out where to mount the shocks. We'll also throw together a driveshaft and hopefully be testing her out on Sunday. If everything goes well, she goes back into the shop for all the finishing touches (filling the truss, spare tire mount, paint, and things like that).
|05-22-2009, 11:06 PM||#7|
Very nice build!!
93 Ford Ranger Splash 4x4 (blown up,again)3.0 5spd, Too much to list
96 Ranger 4.0 5spd 4wd stock for now...(Project: Purple Haze)
01 Ford F-350 4x4 7.3l powerstroke
|05-23-2009, 12:03 AM||#8|
Yeah, I built that.
I like it. Some nice fab work.
You need to improve that rear tow point however. More bolts closer to the center of that plate that the shackle mount is welded to.
Horsepower is how fast you hit a wall. Torque is how far you move a wall.
1994 F350 7.3L PSD, 5spd, DD/tow rig, 2wd for now...
1997 Excab/4.0/5spd/Manual1354/4.88/locked F/R /35"BFG MTs/WarnXD9000i/6"lift/HYDROBOOST!!/Extended radius arms/Wheeling only.
|05-23-2009, 01:31 AM||#9|
I believe that rear tow point is strong enough the way it is. You'd be surprised how strong bolts are when they're in tension. We'd have to be pulling on pretty extreme angles to turn the pulling force into shear on those bolts. As for the plate itself bending, that's 3/8" mild steel. I think it's going to take some pretty hard hits to start bending it?!?! I could be wrong though, thanks for the advice, I appreciate any kind of input. I'll pass it by my brother and see what he thinks. It wouldn't be hard to drill a few extra holes.
|05-23-2009, 09:58 PM||#10|
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Vehicle Year: 1984
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger
I use this vehicle for: anger managementRep Power: 16
well as c_note said, those heims will wear out faster than you think. The metal they are made out of is cheaper and its tensile strenght is alot less that of the FKs. What will happen is the teflon inside will start to come out due to the encasing starting to stretch and you will get lots of slop in there, let alone possible the thing breaking. For the stuff your doing, a jonny joint would have been a better setup for you as they are rebuildable and really not that expensive (atleast out here they aint) even if they are though, rebuilding them is alot less than having to buy new heim joints every four to six months.
what metal is sayin is that even though that plate is thick, a few good HARD yanks will cause the plate to be pulled away from the frame and then put a side stress on the bolt, there for snappin the bolt heads off. You otta just weld it all on unless you have a reason to be taking it off?
1984 Ranger: rc, lwb, 4.0, M50D, Threat Motorsports 6" over equal lenght beams, swing set steering and dana 44 knuckles, glassed front fenders, Giant 64" rear leafs (21" travel!), 9" soon to be trussed & spooled.