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#1 |
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Year: 1989
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 2.3l
Class: 2WD :(
Used For: pathetic stab at being cool with first truck
Posts: 18
Rep Power: 0 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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Hello everybody. I'm pretty much brand new, so this is my first post.
ok so heres the low down: 89 ranger 159k ..ish miles 2WD :( Manual transmission 5 spd So my dad bought it about 18 or 20 years ago for $500. im the main driver now its been really good to us. The poor thing has been in 3 collisions (2 of which i was not even in the truck) and the 3rd i was rear ended. so i have a blue cab and a white bed now feelin pretty patriotic. i've been looking for a new vehicle to buy but i got smart and thought ! "why not by the truck from dad". so he gave it to me today yahoo! anyways, we just had the whole exhaust sys installed brand new. Next is the clutch. Its super hard to get into reverse sometimes and sticks and grinds every once in a while. We just got the new Clutch plate and cover, Clutch disc, Pilot bearing. But what about the Slave cylinder system? because of the (somewhat) high mileage should i just be safe and replace it? everything is pretty much original as far as the clutch goes. and one more question for the slave cylinder- which size tool should be used to take off the quick disconnecting fitting attached to the hose. (or something like that )thank you guys for looking! |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Buena Vista, Ga.
Year: 2005
Make: Ranger
Model: XL
Engine: 3.0
Class: 2WD Street
Used For: I live in the country, what do you think I use it for?
Posts: 179
Rep Power: 11 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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You might as well replce the slave cylinder while your there. The throwout bearing comes with the slave cylinder and the disconnect tool also (or at least mine did). And while your at it and while yu are there. You might as well replace the rear main seal, the output shaft seal.
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2005 3.0 XL, K&N FIPK, Perma Cool 16" Fan, Underdog Underdrive Pulleys, 1.7 Roller Rockers, JBA Headers, Dynomax Cat-Backs, Screaming Deamon Coil, 8.8 3.73 Rear, 17" HELO wheels, SCT X3 programmer |
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#3 |
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Einstein I'm NOT
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Uxbridge, Ontario
Year: 1988
Make: Ford
Model: Multi-year Ranger
Engine: 2.3 Carbureted
Class: 2wd
Used For: Space travel
Posts: 13,528
Rep Power: 78 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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There is a special tool for the quick disconnect but you can use two screwdrivers to push the plastic ring in so that the prongs release...it can be a bit tricky, but either way I found the best thing is to push in a bit on the line while pushing in the plastic ring and then pull out the line once the ring disappears (you'll know what I'm talking about when you do it)...someone posted the tool part number on here a while ago...try a search on quick disconnect...
Hopefully yours comes out a bit easier than mine did...
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Rome and my Ranger were not built in a day... |
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#4 |
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Year: 1989
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 2.3l
Class: 2WD :(
Used For: pathetic stab at being cool with first truck
Posts: 18
Rep Power: 0 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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awesome thanks guys. i talked to a mechanic today and he told me about the screw driver technique also.
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Elkhart, Indiana
Year: 1994
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger XLT
Engine: 4 cyl.
Class: 2WD
Used For: Anything I need it for.
Posts: 450
Rep Power: 10 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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A little trick to keep from grinding reverse when it is back up and is working right is to hit 1st before you go into reverse to make the gears inside the tranny stop spinning. Reverse in these transmissions are not synchronized. The one in my car is, and I can go into reverse while doing 5mph going forward, but I don't care to abuse it or wear it out before it's time because that transmission will run me $3k to replace with a reman'ed one.
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