• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

1994 vs 1995 3.0 short block compatability


Ranger Rod

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2009
Messages
122
City
Ontario Canada
Vehicle Year
1995
Transmission
Automatic
thread and topic carry over from mystery metal


Howdy Folks...

Well the block is in fact a tosser as follows...

The cam shaft upon inspection by professional has proven to be worn beyond polishing and the seats too although "possibly" usable it is doubtful. After inspecting a rod bearing I found significant damage there also, therefore the decision to toss the block is eminent. In retrospect points go to those who firstly said pull the motor, and secondly whoever said pull the rod and main caps in addition to the cam. Thanks for your direction.

The questions today are, I may have a shot at a 1994 3.0 going to the bone yard this weekend but, is that block the same as the 1995 block? I don't know if the 94 is an automatic tranny or not, however, should it be standard the bolt pattern will be the same for both won't it?
 
Last edited:
i have been told any year 3.0 for a ranger will bolt up to any year 3.0 manual tranny...so id say yes. found that out by asking if a manual trans will bolt up to a auto truck and what years will do it on TRS.
 
all 3.0 blocks from all year rangers are the same. transmission doesnt matter. the heads are also the same between the years in question. youll have to swap over all of your OBD2 and DIS electronics (fuel and ignition components, sensors, wiring harness).

keep in mind that you can use a 3.0 from a taurus as well. i find those to be a lot more common in the junkyards around here.
 
all 3.0 blocks from all year rangers are the same. transmission doesnt matter. the heads are also the same between the years in question. youll have to swap over all of your OBD2 and DIS electronics (fuel and ignition components, sensors, wiring harness).

keep in mind that you can use a 3.0 from a taurus as well. i find those to be a lot more common in the junkyards around here.

Make sure you change the head gasket if you do a taurus 3.0 in a ranger, the coolant flows differently.
 
^^^^thats a great article, i wish they updated it though!!!
Beef
 
The skinny today, went to wreckers and found a 3.0 with only 200,000km but when the yard owner cross referenced in his bible it said with the 95 and only the 95 you must replace with a 95. Now maybe he just wasn't willing to part with this relatively low mileage "complete motor" calling it a block and made up a story or there is some truth to it?

I read the article posted here by 351crownvic which if I'm reading right says that only 95 through 98 are inter-changeable.

I understand as wicked stated they might all be fashioned to be used and maybe the bible just isn't making any allowances for fashioning such as electronic ignition changeover. I know there are differences in oil presure systems too because when sourcing the oil pan the question always came up, is the sensor in the pan, and of course mine is not.

However, now I am getting confusion jitters and think I best stay to the original 95 block if at all possable and play it safe as I am now also getting annoyed with all this for something that isn't my hobby car. There is another wrecker I can travel to and see what is in that yard and hopeful there is an actual 95 block to be had there.

It would help I suppose if I could locate where the casting stamp is and reference that code as per the above article when looking at potential replacements. The only place I see anything that might resemble a stamp on my old block is above the water pump to the front of the drivers left side head, but it is far from legible and so it is imposable to tell if this is the right place to be looking although it does seem to be a logical visable place to have it?

p.s. 94 I went to see was a 4.5 liter or something
 
Last edited:
So, the other wreckers has a 97 with 145,000km on it which is good, they say I can use any from the years 95,96,97 without issues. For your added information this is so long as the eighth didget in the vin# is the letter U. I am concerned that if I put $50.00 down on the $150.00 core (no refunds) that once they pull it it may have a cracked block as the front end is smucked enough to bend the frame horn, does anyone have an idea as to if the motor mount would give before the block cracking in this instance?
 
all year ranger 3.0 blocks are interchangable. TFI ignition can be converted to DIS and vice-versa.

there are differences in the heads between 98-01(?) for flex fuel motors. non-flex fuel heads have successfully been used on flex fuel engines with no problems.

the sensor in the oil pan is for the oil level. as far as i know, all 93+ 3.0's have it. there is no difference in the oiling systems.

all ranger 3.0's got roller cams, so if your engine comes out of a ranger you have no worries there.

there are differences in the valve size and spring type after a certain year but as long as you use the complete engine it wont matter.

ive seen engines damaged in wrecks before. just inspect it and make sure there are no obvious contact marks on the engine. the wrecking yard SHOULD offer some kind of warranty for this type of problem (they wont give you your money back, but they will give you another engine). make sure you ask them about that.
 
Im know first hand, I had the same question you did I have a 95 3.0 also and i went a bought a 93 3.0 and so far everything is bolting up perfect, like some people have said the DIS maybe need to be changed but im not to sure im not that far yet...As long as your enigine was a 3.0 you could get a 91 3.0 and itll go right in... 98-01 have head difference but other than that everythin gold, Why do you think we all have Rangers??? Becuz Ford Ranger Rock Socks Off!!!!!!!
 
Progress report...

Tore the wrecker block down checked cam, main and rod bearings all look very good. Turned out to be a 98 block as per the ownership even though door jam said 97. Had to change out mounting brackets with those form my original block which meant cleaning the threads for the holes that were different from 95, otherwise all looks as though it should go smooth (crossing fingers). Also viewed the worm gear on the DIS by peering into the cam channel while intake was still off and it is like new (yippee). This entire block is in what the machine shop says is excellent shape. Timing chain has a tad bit of slack but not worth taking the casing off to change it, was able to glimpse it through the lower crevice while oil pan was off. I was even able to put the pan that came with the block on as it had but a few surface bubbles "in the paint" which I wire wheeled and sprayed. Toted the unit home in the trunk of the Neon if you can believe it... I expect a good day tomorrow (crosses fingers).

Side bar,,, I am assuming the feeder holes in the lifters may go either up or down as the old block had them all facing down but one, and the new block had all facing up but for 3, any definitive answers here before I go to town in the morning?
 
IIRC, the lifters have a channel around them that allows oil to enter and flow around the lifter to enter the supply hole. they should be able to face either way (DONT turn them around on an old engine...the cam and lifter rollers have worn into each other the direction they are facing).
 
By Golly it went in!

One hitch however, I left the 98 DIS in as mentioned above, however the electrical plug was physically different, so I thought no worry and proceeded to swap the cap, but low and behold the inside was different. The 95 spindle piece that passes over the sensor part was prety much a cemi circle while the 98 was maybe 1/4 inch wide. Also see the pic for differences in the cap. I did not fire it up till checking this out guys? Will I have a problem swaping the caps or should I pull the DIS and swap the worm gear and use the 95 DIS? Should I attempt firing it up with the 95 cap on the 98 DIS and see what happens?

F0CCBCDA45.gif
 
i would swap the cam syncronizer and sensor from your original motor into the new one. youll likely need to obtain an alignment tool for the job.

FYI, you can fire the motor up with the cam sensor unplugged or removed. it will throw a CEL and you will lose sequential injector timing...but it wont cause any long term damage.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top