Ranger Conversion Question

kcpsmurf · 10-16-2007, 10:04 AM

A friend of mine and I are in the process of installing a 5.0 liter Ford engine in a 1985 Ford Ranger. To ease the installation process we thought we would remove the front clip/core support from the truck down to the frame. After removing the old V6 we noticed that it appears that the grill and fender inner liners are spot welded together. Has anyone experienced this and if so do you have any suggestions on the best approach for removing the clip/support.

v-8power · 10-16-2007, 07:16 PM

I was going to do this as well. I decided against it because there is like 33 spot welds or something like that. Also there are 2 bolts where it sits on the frame.

If you do it just get a spot weld cutter and go at it. I bought one for less then 20.00 then i bought some replacement cutters for 17.00. Make sure you go slow with your drill. Good Luck with it.

Ranger5.0 · 10-16-2007, 07:40 PM

lemmie know how that works out for ya, im replacing my rad support

projectnitemare · 10-17-2007, 02:02 PM

Been there a few times. Most times the core support on these are rotted away and need replaced. That's one thing you need to check, that will decide your plan of action. You don't "need" a spot weld cutter to remove the core support, a regulard drill bit will work too. It takes a little longer though. If you need to replace the core support the way to go is use a grinder and grind the spot welds away. This leaves the fender support with no holes so then you can either spot weld, drill holes for bolts or weld the new support on however you please. I bolt my core support on due to when I need to pull the engine I pull the core support and pull engine and trans in one shot. I can have the drivetrain gutted in about an hour this way. Check to see how rusted the one you have is, if it isn't bad just drill the spot welds and bolt it back on.

Matt

PARKINGLOT · 10-18-2007, 09:18 PM

I'll have to ask my dad how we replaced the rad support in my old 88 BII...I think we rivited it back in...

projectnitemare · 10-19-2007, 12:20 AM

I wouldn't use rivits. They are not nearly as strong as a bolt or a weld. Not that you would want it to happen but if you were in a crash rivits will shear quite easily. I rivited my fiberglass bedsides on because they looked cleaner than bolts. After a few weeks the rivits started breaking and eventually I bolted them on.

Matt

PARKINGLOT · 10-19-2007, 01:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by projectnitemare

I wouldn't use rivits. They are not nearly as strong as a bolt or a weld. Not that you would want it to happen but if you were in a crash rivits will shear quite easily. I rivited my fiberglass bedsides on because they looked cleaner than bolts. After a few weeks the rivits started breaking and eventually I bolted them on.

Matt

I realize that. My old BII has gone the way of the junkyard now, so now worries about that for me. I'm just saying I think that's how we did it...

**281Ranger** · 10-19-2007, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by projectnitemare

I bolt my core support on due to when I need to pull the engine I pull the core support and pull engine and trans in one shot. I can have the drivetrain gutted in about an hour this way.

What an awsome idea! I need to replace the core support on my '98. Being able to remove the core support would really help with pulling/installing the 4.6 dohc. Thanks for the great idea.

Greg

10-16-2007, 10:04 AM	#1
kcpsmurf New Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Year: 1985 Make: Ford Model: Ranger Posts: 1 Rep Power: 0 iTrader: (0)	Ranger Conversion Question A friend of mine and I are in the process of installing a 5.0 liter Ford engine in a 1985 Ford Ranger. To ease the installation process we thought we would remove the front clip/core support from the truck down to the frame. After removing the old V6 we noticed that it appears that the grill and fender inner liners are spot welded together. Has anyone experienced this and if so do you have any suggestions on the best approach for removing the clip/support.
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10-16-2007, 07:16 PM	#2
v-8power Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Huntington, In. Year: 1990 Make: Ford Model: Ranger Class: 2WD street Posts: 1,633 Rep Power: 21 iTrader: (2)	I was going to do this as well. I decided against it because there is like 33 spot welds or something like that. Also there are 2 bolts where it sits on the frame. If you do it just get a spot weld cutter and go at it. I bought one for less then 20.00 then i bought some replacement cutters for 17.00. Make sure you go slow with your drill. Good Luck with it. __________________ My Website
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10-16-2007, 07:40 PM	#3
Ranger5.0 Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Lindsay Ontario Year: 1993 Make: Ford Model: Ranger XLT Class: 4X4 Used For: DD, Wheeling, Posts: 602 Rep Power: 0 iTrader: (0)	lemmie know how that works out for ya, im replacing my rad support __________________ " MAKG-If you're making a snorkel, you don't need anywhere near 3 inches. You're not going to be running drag races in a river" 93' EXT,on the second 302H.O 3" single exaust,Deltaflow 40/AOD/13-56/F-150 coils, Explorer/ranger leafs.
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10-17-2007, 02:02 PM	#4
projectnitemare Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Osceola Mills, Pa Year: 1988 Make: Ford Model: Ranger XLT Engine: 396W Class: 4x4 Extreme Posts: 1,111 Rep Power: 15 iTrader: (2)	Been there a few times. Most times the core support on these are rotted away and need replaced. That's one thing you need to check, that will decide your plan of action. You don't "need" a spot weld cutter to remove the core support, a regulard drill bit will work too. It takes a little longer though. If you need to replace the core support the way to go is use a grinder and grind the spot welds away. This leaves the fender support with no holes so then you can either spot weld, drill holes for bolts or weld the new support on however you please. I bolt my core support on due to when I need to pull the engine I pull the core support and pull engine and trans in one shot. I can have the drivetrain gutted in about an hour this way. Check to see how rusted the one you have is, if it isn't bad just drill the spot welds and bolt it back on. Matt __________________ 88 Ranger XLT 4x4, no drivetrain, no frame, nothing....new stroker, frame and drivetrain in the works
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10-18-2007, 09:18 PM	#5
PARKINGLOT Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: St. Thomas, ON Year: 1995 Make: Jeep Model: Grand Cherokee Engine: 5.2 Class: 4x4 Used For: haulin' groceries & wheelin' Posts: 426 Rep Power: 12 iTrader: (0)	I'll have to ask my dad how we replaced the rad support in my old 88 BII...I think we rivited it back in... __________________ RIP Matt C - turbonator/sohc86 :( Switched to the dark side - 95 ZJ 5.2 with some stuff..... "I don't break shit, I just test it's durablity" Formerly GONRACIN, Member #166, Join date 30-July 04
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10-19-2007, 12:20 AM	#6
projectnitemare Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Osceola Mills, Pa Year: 1988 Make: Ford Model: Ranger XLT Engine: 396W Class: 4x4 Extreme Posts: 1,111 Rep Power: 15 iTrader: (2)	I wouldn't use rivits. They are not nearly as strong as a bolt or a weld. Not that you would want it to happen but if you were in a crash rivits will shear quite easily. I rivited my fiberglass bedsides on because they looked cleaner than bolts. After a few weeks the rivits started breaking and eventually I bolted them on. Matt __________________ 88 Ranger XLT 4x4, no drivetrain, no frame, nothing....new stroker, frame and drivetrain in the works
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