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Old 01-12-2009, 04:11 PM   #1
PANTERA
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Default RABS valve question

Found an OEM valve on e-Bay for about 30 bucks w/ shipping. However, it's listed as a Brake skid control valve for a 1989 Ranger/BII. Would this fit on a 1992? He said to check the dealer for applications, but all they said was that the part number listed on e-Bay was different than the one listed for the 1992. The seller also said that it was a rear ABS valve. I just cant afford paying 130 or so bucks for one at an auto store. Thanks
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Old 01-13-2009, 07:52 PM   #2
rurouni20xx
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go ahead and spend the 130 bux on the new one, the plugs are dif and the 1992 is like mine on the 1993 that fits the eec 4 fuel injected trk and is wired dif to accomodate the the newer fuel injection, the 89 used obd1 fi and the abs system is more primitive on that model, fewer wires going to it and its not as "smart" as the newer one. what type probs are you having out of your trk that you need to change the rabs valve?
i had a prob w/ my light coming on on occasion and my brake line was rubbing against the gas tank and blew the line out, if your losing brake fluid and think its the valve check that line first, i ended up routing my line all the way around the gas tank to keep it from happening cuz it happened 4 times and i got tired of fixing the crap. and if your thinking about changing it cuz the front wheels lock up its cuz they only installed the abs on the rear wheels, meaning the front will lock up anyway (stupid design in my opinion but thats how it works) and i also had a problem of the mil lamp throwing a code saying the vavle was bad when in reality it was a fuse from where my tail light wire was pinched and blew the fuse and if you look at the wiring diagram thats the fuse for all your lights and the rabs module so if its a mil lamp check the other things listed in the wiring diagram in your trusty haynes manual first, brake troubles have plagued me on my trk for yrs so i got rather knowledgable on them real quick, hope i helped you.
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Old 01-13-2009, 11:40 PM   #3
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Jeez, write sentences. I can't parse that at all.

EVERY Ranger is either EEC-IV or EEC-V. That's a glowing-red-hot herring.

As long as both vehicles are RABS (not 4-wheel ABS), it should work fine. But BEWARE. Most used RABS valves are plugged solid with rust and will do exactly the same thing as a 50 cent brake line plug -- no rear brakes and slipping front brakes.
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Old 01-14-2009, 11:23 AM   #4
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Guys, I checked and they have two "rear brake skid control valves" listed on Ebay presently, both new in the box. The low priced one has the description

You are bidding on one new OE Ford brake skid control valve, part number F4UZ-2B373-A. It fits 1994 Ford E150, E250 and E350 with rear abs brakes only. Buyer to pay actual shipping. Payment due withn 10 days of auction ending by paypal, cashiers check or money order. All sales final, any questions ask before bidding. Thanks for looking!

Hope this sheds some light on the issue.
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Old 01-14-2009, 11:53 AM   #5
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You're aware that those are for full size vans, right? I wouldn't expect interchange. Maybe from an Aerostar.
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1990 VW Jetta GL, 1.8L 8V gasoline engine, manual transmission, painted in oxidized red paint and ponderosa pine sap, unknown mileage.

1991 Exploder, 4.0L, M5OD-R1 manual transmission, electronic BW1354 transfer case, 3.54 gears, 31 inch tires, icky two-tone blue paint with little clear coat, 230K miles.

1972 Chevy C-10, 250 I-6, SM465 (2WD) four-on-the-floor, 3.73 gears in a GM 12-bolt, puke green with a white cab. The "4 wheeled trash can," with x70K miles. x is probably 2.
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Old 01-15-2009, 11:42 AM   #6
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Thanks MAKG. That's why I posted the auction info so someone with your expertise could make that call. If I had the vehicle it fits I'd be tempted to snap it up as a spare since they are so pricey.
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Old 01-15-2009, 08:29 PM   #7
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Here's what my situation is guys,
I start the old goat up, drive it and I can count about 3 or 4 brake applications before the Rear Anti-lock and the brake light both light up, and after that, every time I come to a stop, the rear brakes lock up at around 5 mph, which has me to believe that the RABS valve is somehow stuck in an open position as I read somewhere in a previous post. As I looked underneath, I noticed that the rear brake line was severely corroded but no leaks, and the RABS valve was very corroded as well. I had a couple of offers (thanks guys) on a used Valve, but then I noticed that the pic of the valve out of this one guys 91 Ranger looked identical to the N.O.S. valve for a 89 Ranger listed on e-Bay for about $30 shipping included. So I'm taking a chance with that one. BTW, he has one more listed on e-Bay if anyones interested. Sorry for being long winded.
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Old 01-15-2009, 09:17 PM   #8
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i would throw it away unless your manually running it for burn outs.


never like the rabs...didnt think it worked good enough to put money into it..


the oval 4 prongs are all the same too iirc.
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Old 01-16-2009, 10:25 AM   #9
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There is more to RABS than the valve. There is a (lengthy) procedure for diagnosing it. See the Ford chassis service manual, or the Mitchell book (try the library).
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1991 Exploder, 4.0L, M5OD-R1 manual transmission, electronic BW1354 transfer case, 3.54 gears, 31 inch tires, icky two-tone blue paint with little clear coat, 230K miles.

1972 Chevy C-10, 250 I-6, SM465 (2WD) four-on-the-floor, 3.73 gears in a GM 12-bolt, puke green with a white cab. The "4 wheeled trash can," with x70K miles. x is probably 2.
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Old 01-16-2009, 03:22 PM   #10
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What else should I be looking for? Something electrical? Speed sensor? I surfed all the previous threads in the brakes section, and could only pinpoint it to the Rabs valve.
Seems like people aren't a big fan of the RABS system and I'm beginning to see why! Lol.
Anyhow, seeing that my rear brake line looks like it came out of the Titanic, I gotta change that out so for $30 I figured I'd chance it and put that N.O.S. valve in and see if that is (hopefully) the cause, if not then...
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