RABS question

MAKG · Dec 7, 2008

OK guys, I don't know a whole lot about ABS, but my Exploder is complaining, so I gotta figure it out.

Both the RABS and BRAKE lights are lit, after a few seconds of engine running, every time. It's code "4." It appears to be an open circuit within the RABS valve (between pins 2 and 3), in the "dump valve circuit."

Obviously, I need an RABS valve, but time is an issue, so I'd like some idea of the consequence of not fixing it for a few weeks. Does this mean the RABS just doesn't do anything, or do I have no rears? Brake feel is normal, and the vehicle stops well in good traction (this wasn't always true in the old days, when that valve was plugged up solid with rust).

Sasquatch_Ryda · Dec 8, 2008

With the RABS light on it should just revert to normal power brakes.

Wicked_Sludge · Dec 8, 2008

with RABS, when a wheel skid is detected, the system first closes an inlet valve to prevent any more fluid from entering the rear brake circuit. if the skid continues, the dump valve is opened to release pressure in the rear brake lines. the excess fluid is stored in a small cylinder inside the RABS module until the skid is corrected. if the dump valve circuit is shot, the dump valve wont open, thus, the wheels will stay locked.

but since the RABS system picked up on the fault, it should completely disable all RABS functions (including the functional inlet valve). so you should still have full function of your rear brakes.

MAKG · Dec 8, 2008

Just to check, is there anything that can "kill" this switch?

It doesn't seem like it, but I'd hate to spend $180 on another valve and have it fail again.

In other joyful news the FN A/C compressor is leaking out the shaft seal.

Jspafford · Dec 8, 2008

As others said, you will have full brake power to the rear, just without ABS.

Wicked_Sludge · Dec 8, 2008

as far as i know the dump valve is operated by your typical coil-and-magnet type solenoid. so its susceptible to whatever those things are susceptible to (the only possibility i can think of is maybe over voltage..).

EDIT: look mike, your in luck:

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29724

MAKG · Dec 9, 2008

Wicked_Sludge said:
EDIT: look mike, your in luck:

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29724

Thanks, but I have the rather strong suspicion that the "it works" claim means the idiot light isn't on. And as both of us know, it can be completely dead, disabling the rear brakes entirely, without setting the light.

I've asked him by PM if that was based on a road test. We'll see. If not, no way that's worth $50. Maybe $5.

canyoncritter · Dec 10, 2008

Makg, anything I sell comes with a warranty that the part is good. But I belive you would be best off buying a new one to smoke.So this scum bag that sells junk cant screw the wonder full Makg over.Thats why I told you, tell me how you want it tested.Other then putting it back on my truck. As that to me, is to much of a hassle for 50 bucks.

I know a good ideal why yours went out.Happens on EXP's...real stupid reason too......but making the remarks like above. Ill just keep my snake oil selling mouth shut and get the taste of victory when mr know it all smokes 180 dollars........and that would be well worth 50 bucks to me.Then again, your mr phd. so you should figure it out.

and by the way, the unit had been road tested.works fine too.Did plenty of testing on it playing on my dirt road the day before I yanked it out.

:icon_cheers:

almostclueless · Dec 11, 2008

MAKG, I really can't imagine a new/reman valve going out again anytime soon.....and it looks like rockauto has them for as little as 120 for a 91 explorer.

As a side benefit, you don't have to have any further communications with this rather overreactive guy selling one here!!

MAKG · Dec 11, 2008

I tried that $120 special several months ago. That's what I'm replacing now.

almostclueless · Dec 11, 2008

Bummer.....I guess the next possibility is a yard.

What is the warranty on the piece you bought?

MAKG · Dec 11, 2008

3 months. It's been longer than that.

I hesitate to go to a yard, as it will be much more likely to be DOA.

And Raybestos appears not to be making new ones anymore (it shows up in some catalogs, but with "delays" and they follow up as being backordered). So, my choices are a reman by either Cardone or Raybestos, or a junkyard. Rock Auto has both of these, and both prices are substantially lower than other sources.

I think I may disassemble the old one to try to find out what happened. If it can be repaired, I can keep a spare. I'm not at all above soldering in a jumper if that's what it needs.

RABS question

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