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Old 11-18-2008, 09:36 PM   #1
wahlstrom1
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Default My Build, All Parts And Prices ***2016 Updated*** still not done...

Well, this is in no way a perfect build, and there some things I would change and they will be mentioned. The prices I'm listing are in Canadian dollars, and they were from when the US and Can. Dollar were near equal. There are several ways to go about a build like this, but here's how I did it.

I'm going to divide this into 4 sections being: Factory parts/Aftermarket Parts/Wear Parts/Services.....now on with the show.

Factory Parts:

$200 - 73' EBD44 Housing and Radius Arms
$40 - 78-79' Bronco/F150 Radius Arm Brackets
$100 - 76' Supercab F150 Knuckles
$20 - EBD44 Shock mounts
$200 - 97' Explorer 8.8"
$000 - F150 Lift Blocks - 3.5"

SUBTOTAL - $560

AfterMarket Parts:

$000 - Track Bar Mounts upper/lower and Tranny crossmember (I built, already had the steel)
$350 - NWF High Steer Arms (got bent over on these)
$250 - 1 1/2"x 3/8"wall DOM Tie Rod/Drag Link
$30 - TJ trackbar and Heim w/sleeve for adjustability
$250 - 4.56 gears, front and rear. New but purchased through forums
$80 - Procomp Ranger extended brakelines
$200 - 7" Skyjacker EB coils
$275 - 5.5" Procomp 88-98 Chevy Leafs
$260 - Procomp ES3000 shocks
$75 - BellTech 6400 Shackles
$500 - Detroit locker for 31 spline 8.8"
$80 - 5/8" Ubolts and 9/16" Spring Bolts
$150 - 15x10 Chrome rims
$1200 - 5x 35x13.50R15 Krawlers

SUBTOTAL - $3700

Wear Parts

$200 - Moog Balljoints
$220 - Mevotech TRE's (One Ton Chevy)
$140 - Raybestos Brake Pad's
$120 - Calipers
$80 - All misc seals, front and rear not covered by rebuild kit
$140 - Rebuild kit's for both diff''s, new through forum's
$40 - Spicer Ujoints

SUBTOTAL - $940

Services

$140 - Machine knuckles, install chromoly studs
$600 - Install gears (ran out of time, could have done it myself)
$80 - Alignment

SUBTOTAL - $820

TOTAL - $6020 (EEK....first time I actually added it all up.....must hide this post from girlfriend.....)


I will update this as I remember stuff that I surely left out.....

So, if I was to do this again these are the things I would change:

1. Regear my own diff's

2. Center my rear axle on my own, not using forum 'guideline'. My rear axle is offset about 1 1/2" to the rear, possibly because my chevy leafs are a lift leaf and I'd use the body mount rivet on the upper front hole as a guideline instead of the rear lower hole in front lower hole guideline.

3. Mount radius arms forward 2" to give more tire clearance. Use the stock tranny crossmember hole everyone use's, but as a guide to move the mounts up squarely on the frame. This will also move your draglink closer to parallel with the Tie Rod giving you more useable steering angle.

4. Turn knuckles and use 0* C bushings. I have 7* offset bushings and alignment printout show's about 2* castor going down the road. Having wide tires exaggerates the issue.

5. Run a different shock, preferably adjustable. When loaded the ES3000's work great....the rest of the time they are fairly stiff and cause a somewhat rough ride.

I'll post more as I remember it....

-andrew

Note*** Some pic's are of parts that have been changed during the build, such as knuckles and rear blocks etc.....if you have specific parts you'd like a pic of lemme know and I'll snap one for ya.











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Old 11-18-2008, 09:38 PM   #2
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do you have any pics of your build?
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Old 11-18-2008, 10:39 PM   #3
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Change of plans? Wreck? Body panels for Sale?
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Old 11-18-2008, 10:42 PM   #4
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Uhm, not quite.....I posted this as a guide for pricing and setup for those looking to do a SAS. I noticed several people asking about them, and figured this might help their decisions.

-andrew
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Old 11-18-2008, 10:46 PM   #5
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Uhm, not quite.....I posted this as a guide for pricing and setup for those looking to do a SAS. I noticed several people asking about them, and figured this might help their decisions.

-andrew
Oh ok, sorry, thought it was a sale thread. Looks awesome by the way!
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Old 11-18-2008, 10:49 PM   #6
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i could not bring myself to spend that much no matter how small my pecker was........ i am getting teary eyed just thinking about it. i have less than half that into my b2 purchase price and all....... all that and you still have 2 open diffs?

86

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Old 11-18-2008, 10:52 PM   #7
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EDIT- Immature response on my part.....blah blah blah, it's a truck, so take what you will from the post......maybe it's STICKY worthy? maybe not.....


-andrew

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Old 11-18-2008, 10:52 PM   #8
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i could not bring myself to spend that much no matter how small my pecker was........ i am getting teary eyed just thinking about it. i have less than half that into my b2 purchase price and all.......

86
YOU LEAVE THE PECKERS OUT OF THIS!!!
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Old 11-19-2008, 07:31 AM   #9
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$6000 into the swap and you're still running 1/2 ton axles.... Great documentation, but I strongly disagree with your axle choice for putting that much time and money into it...
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Old 11-19-2008, 07:57 PM   #10
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Looking at it now...me too. But it is what it is, and that includes all suspension and rear axle costs as well so some of it would overlap. If I had 6k to throw at it at once, rather then drag it out so I could actually afford it I would probably do 9" centers with portal outers.

I just hope this can be a guideline to all those thinking of doing a swap, and it shows most of the things that need to be covered. You can subsitute your own prices, and setups (steering for example) and come up with a budget.

-andrew
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