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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: South Fulton, TN
Year: 1987
Model: Ranger
Posts: 1,152
Rep Power: 17 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (2)
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What exactly does this stuff do? I can pour it in my carb on my 2.0 and the truck runs great for a short time, 5 miles or so, then reverts back to crappy performance. Sputtering etc. Runs like crap until I get to highway speed and then it's fine.
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Aurora Colorado
Year: 88,89,90,92,93
Make: FORD
Model: ranger reg cab
ranger ext cab
ranger ext cab stx
exploder sport
exploder 4dr
Engine: 2.3,2.9 and 4.0
Class: 4x4
Used For: DD,Wheeling
Posts: 3,655
Rep Power: 19 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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from what i kno it breaks up carbon in the motor. i maybe wrong so someone else might correct me
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Alabama
Year: 2005
Make: Ford
Model: FX4 Ranger
Engine: 4.0
Posts: 436
Rep Power: 12 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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Sea foam in a ranger http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OFjQG...eature=related
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#4 | |
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Year: 1994
Make: Ford
Model: B3000
Engine: 4.0 v6
Class: 4x4
Used For: Everything
Posts: 547
Rep Power: 12 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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You might need new spark plugs, etc.
After you seafoam you need to replace the O2 sensors, right? I am going to seafoam mine soon.
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Sold: 2001 Mazda B3000, 3in body lift, 33s Current: 1994 Ranger, 4wd, 4.0 5spd & 2002 Lexus Is300 Quote:
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#5 |
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Member
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You don't need to replace anything when you use sea foam. It is no worse for your engine than gas is (not true of other miracle liquids) From what I understand it is basically a mix of high octane fuel and flammable solvents.
I've tried it a couple times and it never really made any difference. For what it's worth you would probably be better off spending your money on parts to fix whatever is wrong with your car than on something that isn't guaranteed to work. Although, sea foam and deep creep both work pretty well as a parts cleaner solvent.
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1986 Ranger XL 4x4, 302, NP435/205, HP D44, RCV shafts, 8.8 Lock-rite/lsd, 4.10 gears, 35" BFG M/T --- Build Thread 1996 Ranger XLT 4x2, 2.3, M5OD 1986 F150 4x2 302/T18 1985 F250 4x4 460/T19 |
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: South Fulton, TN
Year: 1987
Model: Ranger
Posts: 1,152
Rep Power: 17 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (2)
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So basically pouring it into the carb while running doesn't do much for the carb, more for intake valves and other things inside the cylinder? It is weird that it runs great for a little bit then goes to hell. Making me think possibly a sticking valve or something.
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#7 |
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Well, yes and no. Running it through your carb will do SOME good, although how much it actually does is questionable. I would honestly bet that you've got a partially plugged jet or something. Take the carb off, disassemble it, and soak it in parts cleaner solvent for a while. Then reassemble with a carb kit and adjust it to spec. I'm betting this will help if not solve your problem.
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1986 Ranger XL 4x4, 302, NP435/205, HP D44, RCV shafts, 8.8 Lock-rite/lsd, 4.10 gears, 35" BFG M/T --- Build Thread 1996 Ranger XLT 4x2, 2.3, M5OD 1986 F150 4x2 302/T18 1985 F250 4x4 460/T19 |
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#8 |
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RBV Technical Advisor
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: California central coast
Year: 1991
Make: Ford
Model: Explorer
Engine: 4.0L
Class: 4x4
Posts: 4,643
Rep Power: 21 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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The thing is, if SeaFoam worked as advertised, it would be a VERY bad thing.
Whatever crap you break off cylinders MUST go through the exhaust valve. This is a recipe for burning them. But it actually does very little, good or bad. It burns black, so people think it is "doing something."
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1990 VW Jetta GL, 1.8L 8V gasoline engine, manual transmission, painted in oxidized red paint and ponderosa pine sap, unknown mileage. 1991 Exploder, 4.0L, M5OD-R1 manual transmission, electronic BW1354 transfer case, 3.54 gears, 31 inch tires, icky two-tone blue paint with little clear coat, 230K miles. 1972 Chevy C-10, 250 I-6, SM465 (2WD) four-on-the-floor, 3.73 gears in a GM 12-bolt, puke green with a white cab. The "4 wheeled trash can," with x70K miles. x is probably 2. |
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#9 |
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Add it in to the fuel tank and let it work thru the system to clean the carb internals {jets, etc} Pouring thru the carb will only get to valves and pistons
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2000 Ford Explorer 302 Auto 1989 Ford Bronco 302 5 speed 1984 Ford F150 2wd / 65 289cid Dual Quads 1962 Mercury Meteor 393 Stroker / 84 351w block 1995 Ford Taurus 3.0
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#10 |
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New Member
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Might try putting on a new fuel filter also. With todays gas and gas stations draining their tanks to almost empty before they resupply you get a lot more crud than you used to.
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2000 Ford Explorer 302 Auto 1989 Ford Bronco 302 5 speed 1984 Ford F150 2wd / 65 289cid Dual Quads 1962 Mercury Meteor 393 Stroker / 84 351w block 1995 Ford Taurus 3.0
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#11 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: South Fulton, TN
Year: 1987
Model: Ranger
Posts: 1,152
Rep Power: 17 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (2)
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See that's just it. New fuel pump, filter, plugs, wires, rotor button all within the last 2 months. A rebuild kit for my POS carb is $138 which I can't spare right now. And the carb is NOT adjustable anyway which I hate. I guess I need to save up and get a Holley 5200 and adapter. Unless I can find a complete EFI off a wrecked Ranger.
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#12 |
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Sounds like you're doing everything right so far. That sucks that your carb kit costs so much but I think it would be your best option, unless you can grab a good carb off another truck. 2.0's never came with fuel injection either, and even if they did it would be a ton more work to convert over than keep the carb and get it working properly.
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1986 Ranger XL 4x4, 302, NP435/205, HP D44, RCV shafts, 8.8 Lock-rite/lsd, 4.10 gears, 35" BFG M/T --- Build Thread 1996 Ranger XLT 4x2, 2.3, M5OD 1986 F150 4x2 302/T18 1985 F250 4x4 460/T19 |
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