My Shackle Flip input and question

[simple guy]

I started the shackle flip on my truck and have some input AND a question.

First the question. For those who did the flip ONLY and a drop in the front, what was the ride? Were there any clearence issue you experienced with the top of the leafs hitting the bed at the highest point of the shackle?

Second the input. I read about the hardware to use and after removing the rivets (4 of 6 so far) on my 2000 Mazda B3000 found the 3/8" bolts were too small and 7/16" bolt size worked perfect.

On a side note I am not pulling the bed and found it not too difficult yet to remove the rivets. I used a grinder to cut a flat spot in the center of the rivet (rivet that is under the bed part of the truck), use 4 different sizes of drill bits, 7/16" being the last, to step up the hole size each time. I would drill the rivet head off with the 7/16" bit then drill through the rivet with a 3/8" bit to make the rivet weaker for removal. The Rivet would then pop right out with a little help. Takes me about about 45 to 60 minutes per rivet which included getting the equipment out to remove the rivet.

[Hazmat Ranger]

simple guy:

When I first began my foray into the lowered realm I tried the shackle flip. It did not give me enough drop so I reversed the flip and flipped my axle for more drop. They can be done together but you will have to cut bumpers or do a small c-notch in the frame.
I had no issues with clearance of the shackle and bed, the ride was about the same as stock, just not as low as I wanted it.
As for the hardware, I cannot remember the size I used, but they have been in there well over a year and a half with no problems, as I said they are back to original position. I may be considering more drop in the future - will be a while though.

PICS - show us your progress

[simple guy]

HR thanks for the info. I also looked at your truck pic; Nice job on the style and look

[Hazmat Ranger]

Originally Posted by simple guy

HR thanks for the info. I also looked at your truck pic; Nice job on the style and look

Thanks man - I have a few (ROFLMAO) mods left to do - ha ha ha - are we EVER finished - LOL.

[CopyKat]

Quickest way to remove the rivets is to cut a cross in them with a cut off wheel and then chisel the 4 nubs off. Big drift punch to remove the remainder of the rivet.

As for hardware they are in between 7/16 and 1/2". Personally I'd drill them all out to accept 1/2" hardware. New Grade 8 bolts and nuts, and your ready to go.

After flipping mine the handling changed for the better. it was like night and day. If you flip and feel it's not enough drop you can get an extended shackle and add that in. You may have to notch a crossmember under the box to clear it.

[Cool Hand Leuk]

CopyCat (or anyone who's done it) assuming a stock shackle, how much drop do you get on this, and do you feel it handles better because its lower or because this is a superior suspension design (if so why isn't it factory?)? My questions are for my DD occasionaly off-roaded 2WD, I would only be doing this in conjunction with taller springs, maybe even 64" springs. I want a little bit of everything, I wan't supple ride and good handling for the street, enuf spring strength to load up gravel, and such, improved travel for both blowin down back roads at unsafe speeds and hopefully a bit better setup for the slower wheelin, oh yeah, I'm a cheap ass too.

[doorgunner]

I removed the thick overload leaf and flipped the original rear brackets/shackles and got a 4" to"5 drop at the rear bumper--the ride really got soft, so I'm going to put a set of air-adjustable shocks in place of the original shocks to get the firmness back and also when I carry heavy loads, I can add 20 or 30 lbs. of air to the shocks to keep the truck level(& also prevents collapsing the springs). Just be careful lowering the rear so you don't run out of clearance between the top of the axle where it hits the rubber stops on the chassis...Oh, I think it handles better because it's lower, and generally people on forums monkey around with OEM designs until they get what they're after (which is usually an improvement over the OEM design)...

[sparkdic]

I originally did the shackle/hanger flip on my 97 and figured it to be about a 2 inch drop in the rear, which sat the truck level. They way I cut the rivets is to cut an x in them, then take a sharp flat chisel on the air chisel and knock the head off (it goes quick). Lastly I use the pointed bit to knock the rest throught the frame ( watch out they can shoot out sometimes, ha). Using that method takes me about a min and a half each rivet which leaves more time that nite for .

[ILLEGALCONCEPTS]

I tried air shocks when I removed my middle leaf. I was hoping for the same thing as you. After removing my middle leaf, the rear just kept sagging. I did the air shocks as a temp. fix until I could get new springs. I ran air shocks 3 different times on my truck. I used different brands and even hook them up individually the last time. I felt like they added to body roll because I could never get enough pressure in them without them lifting the truck up.

James

[doorgunner]

Yep, the thick bottom leaf is the one to remove (actually, none of the leafs are the right one!). But removing any of the other leafs will cause the problems you talk about--I had a full-size 1/2 ton truck that would actually let the rear wheels come off the road so high that the rear end would land to the left or right a few inches causing the truck to swerve a little when hitting bad road bumps--removing the overload leaf solved that & adding air shocks let me carry heavy loads---but Hey, it doesn't work for everybody...

[dniksch]

where do you look to get extended shackles?