Error Code 214 CID circuit failure

blairwag · 09-18-2007, 07:48 AM

Hi Gang. I changed the oil and flushed the antifreeze Sunday, routine maintenance. Shortly after, the CHECK ENGINE light is on. I have an AutoXray 5000 engine scanner. Pulled the codes and got a 214 memory error code: Cylinder Identification circuit failure. I've reseated the connector to the distributor block and to the crankshaft sensor. Still no good. I cleared the code, but it returns almost immediately. Error remains consistent.

I've read this is likely a wiring/open circuit issue, or a sensor/electronic problem. I tend to doubt wiring is bad, so I suspect a sensor. Supposed to be one of the following: Crankshaft position sensor, Camshaft Position sensor, Ignition control module, or PCM.

Question: How do I scan or pull "p-codes" or, basically, how do I diagnose this to the ailing unit?

**MAKG** · 09-18-2007, 09:23 AM

If you "tend to doubt" that wiring is bad, this is over your head.

Bad wiring is a very frequent cause of codes.

blairwag · 09-18-2007, 09:33 AM

Well, I'm not sure I agree. I guess a better way of say it would be: I'd like to rule out the sensors. I suspect testing the sensors would be easier to do than testing for faulty wiring. I'm pretty convinced that replacing the sensors would be easier to replace than faulty or gone-bad wiring. So, I'm *HOPING* my problem is a faulty sensor.

It's not exactly over my head. I may not be a pro mechanic, but I think I have the aptitude and ability to address this error code. The Ford service manuals aren't (that I have) written for the DIY guy at home (like me). So, I'm just looking for a little help from someone who knows.

I've read about tests using a DVOM (digital volt meter), set to monitor <5vDC using a break out box (likely one I'd have to fabricate) to test for a > 0.1 volt variation in signal from both the CMP and the CKP. I can do this. I was kind of looking or clarification as to whether this is the best approach.

**MAKG** · 09-18-2007, 09:46 AM

The technique for avoiding a breakout box (which no one -- including a number of dealers -- really has) is called "backprobing." Use a straight pininserted into the computer connector, and grab it with an alligator clip. You can often stick straight probes right in.

The easiest way is to voltage-probe the functioning circuit and see where the signal gets lost.

Ruling out sensors requires checking power and ground for each of them. Not a bad idea, but it's not called for if you can see the sensor output....

This would be quite a lot easier to do with a DSO, but you can probably use a tach to detect the signal.

blairwag · 09-19-2007, 07:56 AM

Backprobing! I can handle that. I've read about it, but never gotten such a good description. It makes sense. And, I can definitely do that. Seems easier than making a breakout box or block. Question: when back probing, do I do this with the wiring harness connected to the sensor in question, or do I disconnect the wiring harness connector from the sensor? Would seen to me that it should remain connected, but I don't know if the load from the circuit would skew my measurements.

09-18-2007, 07:48 AM	#1
blairwag New Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Year: 1994 Make: Ford Model: Explorer Posts: 3 Rep Power: 0 iTrader: (0)	Error Code 214 CID circuit failure Hi Gang. I changed the oil and flushed the antifreeze Sunday, routine maintenance. Shortly after, the CHECK ENGINE light is on. I have an AutoXray 5000 engine scanner. Pulled the codes and got a 214 memory error code: Cylinder Identification circuit failure. I've reseated the connector to the distributor block and to the crankshaft sensor. Still no good. I cleared the code, but it returns almost immediately. Error remains consistent. I've read this is likely a wiring/open circuit issue, or a sensor/electronic problem. I tend to doubt wiring is bad, so I suspect a sensor. Supposed to be one of the following: Crankshaft position sensor, Camshaft Position sensor, Ignition control module, or PCM. Question: How do I scan or pull "p-codes" or, basically, how do I diagnose this to the ailing unit?
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09-18-2007, 09:23 AM	#2
MAKG RBV Technical Advisor Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: California central coast Year: 1991 Make: Ford Model: Explorer Engine: 4.0L Class: 4x4 Posts: 4,643 Rep Power: 21 iTrader: (0)	If you "tend to doubt" that wiring is bad, this is over your head. Bad wiring is a very frequent cause of codes. __________________ 1990 VW Jetta GL, 1.8L 8V gasoline engine, manual transmission, painted in oxidized red paint and ponderosa pine sap, unknown mileage. 1991 Exploder, 4.0L, M5OD-R1 manual transmission, electronic BW1354 transfer case, 3.54 gears, 31 inch tires, icky two-tone blue paint with little clear coat, 230K miles. 1972 Chevy C-10, 250 I-6, SM465 (2WD) four-on-the-floor, 3.73 gears in a GM 12-bolt, puke green with a white cab. The "4 wheeled trash can," with x70K miles. x is probably 2.
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09-18-2007, 09:33 AM	#3
blairwag New Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Year: 1994 Make: Ford Model: Explorer Posts: 3 Rep Power: 0 iTrader: (0)	Well, I'm not sure I agree. I guess a better way of say it would be: I'd like to rule out the sensors. I suspect testing the sensors would be easier to do than testing for faulty wiring. I'm pretty convinced that replacing the sensors would be easier to replace than faulty or gone-bad wiring. So, I'm HOPING my problem is a faulty sensor. It's not exactly over my head. I may not be a pro mechanic, but I think I have the aptitude and ability to address this error code. The Ford service manuals aren't (that I have) written for the DIY guy at home (like me). So, I'm just looking for a little help from someone who knows. I've read about tests using a DVOM (digital volt meter), set to monitor <5vDC using a break out box (likely one I'd have to fabricate) to test for a > 0.1 volt variation in signal from both the CMP and the CKP. I can do this. I was kind of looking or clarification as to whether this is the best approach.
	Tweet

09-18-2007, 09:46 AM	#4
MAKG RBV Technical Advisor Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: California central coast Year: 1991 Make: Ford Model: Explorer Engine: 4.0L Class: 4x4 Posts: 4,643 Rep Power: 21 iTrader: (0)	The technique for avoiding a breakout box (which no one -- including a number of dealers -- really has) is called "backprobing." Use a straight pininserted into the computer connector, and grab it with an alligator clip. You can often stick straight probes right in. The easiest way is to voltage-probe the functioning circuit and see where the signal gets lost. Ruling out sensors requires checking power and ground for each of them. Not a bad idea, but it's not called for if you can see the sensor output.... This would be quite a lot easier to do with a DSO, but you can probably use a tach to detect the signal. __________________ 1990 VW Jetta GL, 1.8L 8V gasoline engine, manual transmission, painted in oxidized red paint and ponderosa pine sap, unknown mileage. 1991 Exploder, 4.0L, M5OD-R1 manual transmission, electronic BW1354 transfer case, 3.54 gears, 31 inch tires, icky two-tone blue paint with little clear coat, 230K miles. 1972 Chevy C-10, 250 I-6, SM465 (2WD) four-on-the-floor, 3.73 gears in a GM 12-bolt, puke green with a white cab. The "4 wheeled trash can," with x70K miles. x is probably 2.
	Tweet

09-19-2007, 07:56 AM	#5
blairwag New Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Year: 1994 Make: Ford Model: Explorer Posts: 3 Rep Power: 0 iTrader: (0)	Backprobing! I can handle that. I've read about it, but never gotten such a good description. It makes sense. And, I can definitely do that. Seems easier than making a breakout box or block. Question: when back probing, do I do this with the wiring harness connected to the sensor in question, or do I disconnect the wiring harness connector from the sensor? Would seen to me that it should remain connected, but I don't know if the load from the circuit would skew my measurements.
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