What has everybody had to fix on their truck?

Just_Randy · Jul 11, 2008

Thought it would be nice to have a database of what usually goes wrong.

On my 1997 Ranger 4x4 5-speed 3.0 its:

-Cam synchronizer and sensor (they were mangled)
-DPFE
-Water Line Vacuum Valve (cracked n leaked water)
-Blend Door (door pivot split down the middle)
-Door Switches (I had to disconnect them so my lights and "door ajar" would go out)
-Wiper Switch (makes wipers wipe at random)
-Rear Main Seal

I'm sure I'll be adding more later.

reginald fairfield · Jul 15, 2008

1999 Ford Ranger 4x4 3.0.

Rebuilt Transfercase that still does not work right. Twice.
Usual maintenance.
O2 sensors.

That is it so far. But the 140,000 motor sounds completely shitty. :pissedoff:

Just_Randy · Jul 15, 2008

Which T-case do you have? 1354??? What went wrong with it?

I just finished putting a rear main seal in... It still leaks. I guess I need a new crankshaft. The new clutch works nice though, so it wasnt a total loss. I'll just have to live with oil dripping out. This engine is not worth a new crankshaft!

For some reason my T-case was missing the nut that holds the front yoke on. So, the yoke was allowed to bounce all over in 4x4 mode and wore the oil seal out. So, all the oil drained out of the t-case long ago before I got the truck. Its a wonder my t-case is not a basket case.

reginald fairfield · Jul 15, 2008

Just_Randy said:
Which T-case do you have? 1354??? What went wrong with it?

It was just a POS. The chain was loose, the planetaries were fried, all the electronics were screwed... Stupid 1354 E.... I am still trying to figure out what exactly is wrong with my four wheel drive, I thought for awhile that a stripped hub was slipping and fried the t case, but who knows... Even nobody on here was able to help me...

http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14977

Just_Randy · Jul 15, 2008

I hate having to rely on a motor to shift my t-case. I'm wondering if your motor is not engaging your 4 low all the way. I took my motor apart n cleaned the black stuff off it and played around with it to understand how it works. If you turn the motor enough times, the gears change. There's even a neutral position! The electronics won't let you shift into neutral though. But, I was wondering how that motor knows when to stop turning. Maybe if you manually lock your t-case into 4 low by turning the motor enough times and leaving it unplugged, I wonder if it would still give you problems....

If you want bulletproof, put a NP205 in it! Only a 2:1 crawl though instead of the 2.48:1 you have now.

fixizin · Jul 16, 2008

-Cam synchronizer and sensor (they were mangled)

What's the deal with this? Oil starvation? Plastic gears?

-Water Line Vacuum Valve (cracked n leaked water)

Do you mean the Heater Control Valve, in the heater hose? That's $20-25 online, or more at the stealerships. I carry a 5/8" heater bypass fitting so this kinda shyt won't leave me on the side of the road.

-Wiper Switch (makes wipers wipe at random)

Mine was covered by a recall; they even gave me a loaner F-150 after I bitched a little.

My '99 4x4 3.0L 5-speed:

-IAC
-DPFE
-VSS
-idler pulley bearing got squeaky;
-one factory spark plug broke the center electrode;
-well-known 3rd gear synchro/blocking ring "rough" issue;
-ball joint boots aging faster than other boots;
-Dimmer switch will not turn on dome light, never did.

... oh yeah, and it came with the infamous "exploding" Firestone Wilderness AT tires... I ran 'em for 18k miles before FoMoCo finally forced me to accept an even pricier set of Falkens.

Can't complain, no "hard" parts... OTOH, only 34k miles.

kevinsranger · Jul 16, 2008

Just_Randy said:
I just finished putting a rear main seal in... It still leaks. I guess I need a new crankshaft. I'll just have to live with oil dripping out. This engine is not worth a new crankshaft!

get a speedy sleeve for the crank, dont buy a new one, your gonna have to do some measurements for the parts store, or they might be able to find it with the sizes of the seal. its a real thin metal sleeve that gets pushed onto the seal surface of the crank to give the seal a new surface to seal against instead of replacing the crank or machining it.

Big Jim M · Jul 16, 2008

Randy If your PCV system is partially clogged or inoperable oil will be forced out the rear mail seal! I'd be looking at that system and making sure why my seal was leaking before attempting another repair..
Big JIm

red2003xlt · Jul 16, 2008

Gas tank, Ford claimed the warning light was caused by an improperly formed gas tank.

Warranty repair completed with a loaner, the gas tank had to specialty shipped.

MUDDING B-3000 · Jul 16, 2008

ive got a 94 b3000.

the clutch was replaced about 2 months before i bought it.
since ive had it only for about 5 month ive only done usual maintaince
and my oil pressure line blew apart in 5 spots so oil went everywhere.
since im new to ofroading i didnt kno that once i submerge my wheel bearings i shold take them apart and re pack them. so i kill one set of wheel bears,
replaced those and havnt had any problem with anything since/

Just_Randy · Jul 17, 2008

fixizin said:
-Cam synchronizer and sensor (they were mangled)

What's the deal with this? Oil starvation? Plastic gears?

From what I gathered reading online, the magnet falls off the sensor and turns the synchro into a milkshake blender.

-Water Line Vacuum Valve (cracked n leaked water)

Do you mean the Heater Control Valve, in the heater hose? That's $20-25 online, or more at the stealerships. I carry a 5/8" heater bypass fitting so this kinda shyt won't leave me on the side of the road.

Yes, that is what I meant. I carry water jugs so that kind of shyt won't leave me on the side of the road, lol. The previous owner had tried to fix it with silicon.... I guess it worked for a while.

-Wiper Switch (makes wipers wipe at random)

Mine was covered by a recall; they even gave me a loaner F-150 after I bitched a little.

Mine is a 97 and its 2008 now.... and I'm not the original owner... Can I still do the recall thing?

My '99 4x4 3.0L 5-speed:

-IAC
-DPFE
-VSS
-idler pulley bearing got squeaky;
-one factory spark plug broke the center electrode;
-well-known 3rd gear synchro/blocking ring "rough" issue;
-ball joint boots aging faster than other boots;
-Dimmer switch will not turn on dome light, never did.

... oh yeah, and it came with the infamous "exploding" Firestone Wilderness AT tires... I ran 'em for 18k miles before FoMoCo finally forced me to accept an even pricier set of Falkens.

Can't complain, no "hard" parts... OTOH, only 34k miles.

I'm going to check my IAC next. Not sure what a VSS is. Not sure what you mean by "3rd gear blocking ring issue". My 4th gear grinds sometimes if I try to shift too fast from 3rd. I also put a new ball joint on, but sorta don't count that as anything to complain about. I have 31 inch tires and 178,000 miles.

I remember those firestone tires. My truck came with TSL's from the previous owner. He also threw in the 31 inch street tires... all I had to do was buy new rims for them. Now I can switch tires for street or off-roading.

Just_Randy · Jul 17, 2008

kevinsranger said:
Just_Randy said:

I just finished putting a rear main seal in... It still leaks. I guess I need a new crankshaft. I'll just have to live with oil dripping out. This engine is not worth a new crankshaft!

get a speedy sleeve for the crank, dont buy a new one, your gonna have to do some measurements for the parts store, or they might be able to find it with the sizes of the seal. its a real thin metal sleeve that gets pushed onto the seal surface of the crank to give the seal a new surface to seal against instead of replacing the crank or machining it.

Click to expand...

Thanks! I was wondering if something like that existed. I'm not sure if I want to go thru all the trouble again or just live with the leak. That tranny was a real PITA to squeeze out over the rivetted crossmember!

kevinsranger · Jul 17, 2008

Just_Randy said:
kevinsranger said:

Thanks! I was wondering if something like that existed. I'm not sure if I want to go thru all the trouble again or just live with the leak. That tranny was a real PITA to squeeze out over the rivetted crossmember!

Click to expand...

grind the heads off the rivits and replace them with bolts. and yea those speedy sleeves are really popular in heavy equipment where i work, but they go by size not application, and your better off going to an older parts store or a bearing shop to look it up, i doubt the people at pepboys or auto zone have any idea what they are unless they are using them on civics no lol.

Just_Randy · Jul 17, 2008

Big Jim M said:
Randy If your PCV system is partially clogged or inoperable oil will be forced out the rear mail seal! I'd be looking at that system and making sure why my seal was leaking before attempting another repair..
Big JIm

Thanks Jim! I checked the PCV... It rattles, but I didn't take it off and check for plugging. I'll look into that.

My old main seal was in the block crooked. And none of the seal was flush with the block. I used a piece of PVC pipe to pound the new seal in flush and straight, but it still leaks. I figure after 178,000 miles and running who-knows-how-many-miles with a crooked seal, the crank is just worn. My oil pressure is very good though! I drained all the oil over several days... even let it run for a few seconds with no oil to flush out the oil pump. When I filled it back up n started it, the pressure gauge jumped up like it was spring-loaded.

Just_Randy · Jul 17, 2008

kevinsranger said:
Just_Randy said:

grind the heads off the rivits and replace them with bolts. and yea those speedy sleeves are really popular in heavy equipment where i work, but they go by size not application, and your better off going to an older parts store or a bearing shop to look it up, i doubt the people at pepboys or auto zone have any idea what they are unless they are using them on civics no lol.

Click to expand...

I was thinking about grinding them, but figured I could get the tranny out and back in by brute force anyway. Also, if I removed the member, the axle would fall off and I was using jack stands under the axle to hold the truck up. At the time, it seemed like more work that it was worth. A scissor jack against the oil pan pushes the tranny out. Getting it back in involved a bunch of screwdrivers and wiggling.

If I tear it back down, can't I just take the measurement of the crank with calipers and then just order the speedy sleeve online somewhere? Does it come with a seal? Or at least a part number for a seal???

What has everybody had to fix on their truck?

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