My 94 Knocking, Coming From The Belhousing

Drg racr · 09-07-2007, 01:07 PM

My 94 4.0L is knocking, and it's coming from the belhousing area. I used a stethescope and it's loudest where the starter goes into the housing. What could this be? I've driven it like this for about 4 months now, so if it was a rod it would have blown by now. It's barely noticable when cold, but gets louder when warm. I can really hear it between 2500-3000rpm. It sparks-knocks like mad too all the time too. I think I'll pull the motor next week, but is there anything I should look at first? TC? Flexplate?

**MAKG** · 09-07-2007, 01:38 PM

I'd be concerned about the flexplate being loose or partially broken.

BobR · 09-07-2007, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MAKG

I'd be concerned about the flexplate being loose or partially broken.

X2 or a cracked friction plate or fltwheel if its a 5 speed. if you don't pull it apart you'' soon be walking.

Bob

Natedog · 09-08-2007, 06:58 PM

Yup loose or cracked flexplate.

Drg racr · 09-10-2007, 12:18 PM

Well, I'm pulling the motor this week. I have a lot of the stuff loose, but I can't get to some of the belhousing bolts, or the TC bolts. Ideas?

**MAKG** · 09-10-2007, 12:29 PM

For the bellhousing, use lots of extensions and a U-joint.

For the torque converter, rotate the crank with a ratchet on the harmonic balancer bolt.

BobR · 09-10-2007, 04:16 PM

this style works best, the other one tends to lay over and strip things. Sear's has a good-nuff one for a few bucks. stay away from the car parts stores especialy for these. cheap ones are less dependable that cheap sockets.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PRO-9...spagenameZWD9V

Bob

Drg racr · 09-16-2007, 06:02 PM

Well, I got the motor out and apart. So far, the crank is scarred, but nothing else. THe pistons look good, rods good, heads fine, no cylinder ridge (after 132000 miles), so I can't figure out what took a chunk out of the thrust bearing.
I'm going to run the 410 Comp cam in it, as long as I have it apart. Should I do anything else, like head porting, larger injectors, headers, ect? This is mainly a winter truck, but it's in really good shape for a 94.

Drg racr · 09-17-2007, 12:18 PM

Well, I can't figure this out. I'm thinking of just buying a reman shortblock and hoping it will take care of it. I really don't know what to do yet.

camping_mailman01 · 09-20-2007, 10:33 PM

If you haven't done yet, I'd replace the oil pump at 132,000.

Drg racr · 09-24-2007, 08:04 AM

A new oil pump was in the plans. I always replace the oil pump when I have a motor apart.

Drg racr · 10-01-2007, 09:42 AM

I've got the parts to put my 4.0L back together. Problem is, I don't feel that good about reinstalling it if I didn't find the problem. I can't find a darn thing wrong with it! There's got to be a cause as to the knock.

09-07-2007, 01:07 PM	#1
Drg racr Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Southern Michigan Year: 1994 Make: Ford Model: Explorer Engine: 4.0L Class: 4x4 Used For: Winter driving Posts: 81 Rep Power: 12 iTrader: (0)	My 94 Knocking, Coming From The Belhousing My 94 4.0L is knocking, and it's coming from the belhousing area. I used a stethescope and it's loudest where the starter goes into the housing. What could this be? I've driven it like this for about 4 months now, so if it was a rod it would have blown by now. It's barely noticable when cold, but gets louder when warm. I can really hear it between 2500-3000rpm. It sparks-knocks like mad too all the time too. I think I'll pull the motor next week, but is there anything I should look at first? TC? Flexplate?
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09-07-2007, 01:38 PM	#2
MAKG RBV Technical Advisor Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: California central coast Year: 1991 Make: Ford Model: Explorer Engine: 4.0L Class: 4x4 Posts: 4,643 Rep Power: 21 iTrader: (0)	I'd be concerned about the flexplate being loose or partially broken. __________________ 1990 VW Jetta GL, 1.8L 8V gasoline engine, manual transmission, painted in oxidized red paint and ponderosa pine sap, unknown mileage. 1991 Exploder, 4.0L, M5OD-R1 manual transmission, electronic BW1354 transfer case, 3.54 gears, 31 inch tires, icky two-tone blue paint with little clear coat, 230K miles. 1972 Chevy C-10, 250 I-6, SM465 (2WD) four-on-the-floor, 3.73 gears in a GM 12-bolt, puke green with a white cab. The "4 wheeled trash can," with x70K miles. x is probably 2.
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09-08-2007, 06:58 PM	#4
Natedog Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: CA Year: 87 Make: Ranger Model: SuperCab Class: 4x4 Used For: DD & trail truck Posts: 922 Rep Power: 13 iTrader: (3)	Yup loose or cracked flexplate.
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09-10-2007, 12:18 PM	#5
Drg racr Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Southern Michigan Year: 1994 Make: Ford Model: Explorer Engine: 4.0L Class: 4x4 Used For: Winter driving Posts: 81 Rep Power: 12 iTrader: (0)	Well, I'm pulling the motor this week. I have a lot of the stuff loose, but I can't get to some of the belhousing bolts, or the TC bolts. Ideas?
	Tweet

09-10-2007, 12:29 PM	#6
MAKG RBV Technical Advisor Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: California central coast Year: 1991 Make: Ford Model: Explorer Engine: 4.0L Class: 4x4 Posts: 4,643 Rep Power: 21 iTrader: (0)	For the bellhousing, use lots of extensions and a U-joint. For the torque converter, rotate the crank with a ratchet on the harmonic balancer bolt. __________________ 1990 VW Jetta GL, 1.8L 8V gasoline engine, manual transmission, painted in oxidized red paint and ponderosa pine sap, unknown mileage. 1991 Exploder, 4.0L, M5OD-R1 manual transmission, electronic BW1354 transfer case, 3.54 gears, 31 inch tires, icky two-tone blue paint with little clear coat, 230K miles. 1972 Chevy C-10, 250 I-6, SM465 (2WD) four-on-the-floor, 3.73 gears in a GM 12-bolt, puke green with a white cab. The "4 wheeled trash can," with x70K miles. x is probably 2.
	Tweet

09-10-2007, 04:16 PM	#7
BobR Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: okanogan Year: 84 Make: ferd Model: 2-B2s one is stock Posts: 197 Rep Power: 12 iTrader: (0)	this style works best, the other one tends to lay over and strip things. Sear's has a good-nuff one for a few bucks. stay away from the car parts stores especialy for these. cheap ones are less dependable that cheap sockets. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PRO-9...spagenameZWD9V Bob
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09-16-2007, 06:02 PM	#8
Drg racr Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Southern Michigan Year: 1994 Make: Ford Model: Explorer Engine: 4.0L Class: 4x4 Used For: Winter driving Posts: 81 Rep Power: 12 iTrader: (0)	Well, I got the motor out and apart. So far, the crank is scarred, but nothing else. THe pistons look good, rods good, heads fine, no cylinder ridge (after 132000 miles), so I can't figure out what took a chunk out of the thrust bearing. I'm going to run the 410 Comp cam in it, as long as I have it apart. Should I do anything else, like head porting, larger injectors, headers, ect? This is mainly a winter truck, but it's in really good shape for a 94.
	Tweet

09-17-2007, 12:18 PM	#9
Drg racr Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Southern Michigan Year: 1994 Make: Ford Model: Explorer Engine: 4.0L Class: 4x4 Used For: Winter driving Posts: 81 Rep Power: 12 iTrader: (0)	Well, I can't figure this out. I'm thinking of just buying a reman shortblock and hoping it will take care of it. I really don't know what to do yet.
	Tweet

09-20-2007, 10:33 PM	#10
camping_mailman01 New Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Year: 1998 Make: Ford Model: Ranger Posts: 23 Rep Power: 0 iTrader: (0)	If you haven't done yet, I'd replace the oil pump at 132,000.
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09-24-2007, 08:04 AM	#11
Drg racr Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Southern Michigan Year: 1994 Make: Ford Model: Explorer Engine: 4.0L Class: 4x4 Used For: Winter driving Posts: 81 Rep Power: 12 iTrader: (0)	A new oil pump was in the plans. I always replace the oil pump when I have a motor apart.
	Tweet

10-01-2007, 09:42 AM	#12
Drg racr Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Southern Michigan Year: 1994 Make: Ford Model: Explorer Engine: 4.0L Class: 4x4 Used For: Winter driving Posts: 81 Rep Power: 12 iTrader: (0)	I've got the parts to put my 4.0L back together. Problem is, I don't feel that good about reinstalling it if I didn't find the problem. I can't find a darn thing wrong with it! There's got to be a cause as to the knock.
	Tweet

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