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| Mazda B-Series Specific Addressing issues specific to the Mazda B-Series trucks |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Farmington Il.
Year: 1988
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 4.0
Class: 4x4
Used For: Trail Slut
Posts: 2,144
Rep Power: 19 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (1)
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Depends on how much work you want to do. If you want to take the bed off you may need new bolts and clips for the frame, cause you will probably beak the clips and then need to cut the bolt head off. If your tank is full you can suck the gas out of the tank or drive the truck till it is just about out of gas so the tank doesn't weigh that much. It depends on you and what you want to do. Also is the piece you want on top of the tank and under a frame brace and you need to drop the tank anyway.
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HE WHO DIES WITH THE MOST TOYS WINS |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Lake Mary/Daytona Beach, FL
Year: 1997, 2005
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger STX, Ranger Edge
Engine: 4.0, 4.0
Class: 4x4, 2WD Street
Used For: Offroader, Daily Driver
Posts: 2,383
Rep Power: 15 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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It really depends on if you need to drop the tank anyway or not. Even if you do though it's way easier to access everything with the bed off, which is really simple. I had a fuel tank filler neck that had to be replaced and I messed up a couple times. Pulled the bed off a total of 3 times and it really isn't hard. Just 6 bolts in the bed, a tail light harness and 3 small bolts at the fuel neck and it the whole thing lifts right off. Where do you live, how hold is the truck and what condition is the bed hardware in?
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1997 Ranger STX 4.0L 4X4....... 200,000 miles and counting 4" Superlift w/ Pro Comp shocks, 33" Mud Terrains, 4.56 Gears, Iridium plugs, Warn manual hubs, Flowmaster 40 "I can predict the motions of the cosmos but I can not calculate the madness of the people." - Isaac Newton, 1727 |
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#5 |
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Yeah, I built that.
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Plymouth MA home, Buzzards Bay MA
Year: 1997, 1994
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger, F350
Engine: 4.0, 7.3
Class: 4x4 Extreme
Used For: Working and Wheeling
Posts: 3,822
Rep Power: 10 ![]() iTrader: (28)
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While your thinking about it, go spray some PbBlaster on the bolts so that if you decide to do it, it will be about 3 times easier.
PbBlaster + Time = Miracles
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Horsepower is how fast you hit a wall. Torque is how far you move a wall. http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...ad.php?t=21890 1994 F350 7.3L PSD, 5spd, DD/tow rig, 2wd for now... 1997 Excab/4.0/5spd/Manual1354/4.88/locked F/R /35"BFG MTs/WarnXD9000i/6"lift/HYDROBOOST!!/Extended radius arms/Wheeling only. |
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Year: 1993
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 2.3L
Class: 4x4
Used For: DD
Posts: 314
Rep Power: 12 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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FYI, the bolts and clips are ~$12 a piece from the dealer, not cheap! I broke 3 of the bolts taking my bed off, and the other three were so corroded I did want to use them again. $150 for bolts is not my type of deal, so I got bolts from Menards and made a new clip for the bolt near the gas tank ($10 is much better).
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#7 |
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New Member
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I need to put a new fuel level sender into my tank, and I think I need to remove the tank to do this. I know all the kits are different, but is it likely to be possible with the body on the chassis?
__________________________________________________ __ Visit Autopartswarehouse at Autopartswarehouse.com |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Year: 1993
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 2.3L
Class: 2wd
Posts: 170
Rep Power: 11 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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Hello,
I had to replace the fuel pump on my 1992 Ranger. It was much easier to remove the bed than it was to crawl underneath and deal with rust fuel tank mounting bolts. The bed bolts were a little stubborn, after applying heat for a few minutes with a propane torch they were relatively easy to remove. While I had the bed off I noticed the typical rotted fuel filler hose and that my rear shocks were also very rusted, replacing these items were a breeze with the bed off. The bolts were questionable. The dealer ones were expensive. I tried to find if anyone offered a bed bolt kit but I had no success. I ended up cleaning the threads up and treating them with an anti seize compound. I definitely recommend removing the bed. The only draw back is that the bed bolts may seize up and snap. I would like to go back when I get a chance and install new bolts but not from the expensive Ford dealer. |
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Georgia
Year: 1984,1990,1994
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger, Bronco II
Class: 2WD
Posts: 1,348
Rep Power: 14 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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Once you have the bed reinstalled, coat the exposed bolt threads with white lithium grease (a couple are tricky, but can be reached with a fingertip). That will keep them from rusting, and make it a lot easier if you pull the bed again later.
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Current: 1994 Ranger XLT SuperCab 4x2, 2.3L / M5OD. Stock, 365,000 miles. 1990 Bronco II XLT 4x2, 2.9L / A4LD. Stock, 129,00 miles. 1984 Ranger 4x2 lwb, 2.8L / C3. Stock, 148,000 miles. Past: 1985, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1992 (all bought new). Ranger-only driver for 22 years. TRS member since 3/18/2005. |
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#11 |
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New Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: O-Town, FL
Year: 1997
Make: Mazda
Model: B-2300
Engine: 2.3L ^_^
Class: 2WD
Used For: towing my boat, and picking up chicks
Posts: 11
Rep Power: 0 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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If found it easier to take my tank off. Then again, I do have a buddy with a hydraulic lift
I had to replace my whole sending unit because my gas gauge stopped working. I took my tank off in the matter of minutes after emptying it.
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Dang it, if its not broken, don't mess with it.
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