D35 Rebuild

jkent · Apr 22, 2013

Hello all,

Right now I'm going through most of the D35 in my 93 Ranger and i had a few questions. I bought all three new U-joints and have the outer u joints installed and would like to do the middle u joint, but im not positive how to get the shaft out off the differential. I assume there is a clip inside of the pumpkin..If that is true, what is the easiest way of getting this off? I've read about some C clip eliminator writeups, and i do have the echo spring to put between the passenger shafts, does this spring eliminate the need for the inner c clip? One more question, should there be clips/washers on the outer axle shafts the hold the shafts out(into the lockouts)? My D35 is in pieces right now so i figure this is the time to do the middle u joint and any mods to save me time in the future. I've bought upper and lower moog greaseable balljoints, moog super strength greaseable ujoints, spindle bearings, spindle seals, axle seals, wheel seals, and spindle nuts for the d35, is there anything else im overlooking? Thanks!

racer1044 · Apr 22, 2013

The only way to get that shaft out is to pull the diff off of the axle beam. There is a c clip that holds it in. I do recommend doing the c clip delete spring. There are plenty of write ups in the tech library that can help out a lot.

brinker88 · Apr 22, 2013

Unbolt the 3rd member from the driver side beam to remove the c-clip. Then do the c-clip eliminator (tack weld or use a clamp to hold it onto the shaft). There should be a thrust washer (splined) that goes on over the shaft AFTER the spindle is bolted on as well as a c-clip on the stub. If you're looking at really wheeling this thing, get a set of Warn 37780 lockout hubs. I've exploded both the mile marker AND standard warn hubs in less than 2 wheeling trips. The 37780 Warns have lasted me well over 25 wheeling trips now with no ill effects. You might also want to think about tacking the caps onto your shafts or using lock-tite as lubrication on the caps coupled with full circle snap rings.

jkent · Apr 22, 2013

brinker88 said:
Unbolt the 3rd member from the driver side beam to remove the c-clip. Then do the c-clip eliminator (tack weld or use a clamp to hold it onto the shaft). There should be a thrust washer (splined) that goes on over the shaft AFTER the spindle is bolted on as well as a c-clip on the stub. If you're looking at really wheeling this thing, get a set of Warn 37780 lockout hubs. I've exploded both the mile marker AND standard warn hubs in less than 2 wheeling trips. The 37780 Warns have lasted me well over 25 wheeling trips now with no ill effects. You might also want to think about tacking the caps onto your shafts or using lock-tite as lubrication on the caps coupled with full circle snap rings.

So i take it the echo spring ive purchased will eliminate the internal c clip? the trust washers and c clips would be on both sides as well then right? If, so I am missing those parts for both sides :annoyed:

As far as the lockouts go, i believe i have the standard warns, but I will wait to upgrade to the 37780s until i break the current ones (i have a spare set of the regulars).

brinker88 · Apr 22, 2013

jkent said:
So i take it the echo spring ive purchased will eliminate the internal c clip? the trust washers and c clips would be on both sides as well then right? If, so I am missing those parts for both sides As far as the lockouts go, i believe i have the standard warns, but I will wait to upgrade to the 37780s until i break the current ones (i have a spare set of the regulars).

Yes, yes, and sounds good :icon_thumby:

Just grab the thrust washers/clips at your local JY. Take a look through my build thread if you want any more ideas.

4x4junkie · Apr 28, 2013

jkent said:
Hello all,

Right now I'm going through most of the D35 in my 93 Ranger and i had a few questions. I bought all three new U-joints and have the outer u joints installed and would like to do the middle u joint, but im not positive how to get the shaft out off the differential. I assume there is a clip inside of the pumpkin..If that is true, what is the easiest way of getting this off? I've read about some C clip eliminator writeups, and i do have the echo spring to put between the passenger shafts, does this spring eliminate the need for the inner c clip? One more question, should there be clips/washers on the outer axle shafts the hold the shafts out(into the lockouts)? My D35 is in pieces right now so i figure this is the time to do the middle u joint and any mods to save me time in the future. I've bought upper and lower moog greaseable balljoints, moog super strength greaseable ujoints, spindle bearings, spindle seals, axle seals, wheel seals, and spindle nuts for the d35, is there anything else im overlooking? Thanks!

If it's not too late, I would suggest exchanging those items for:
Spicer (or Raybestos) Professional Grade balljoints (pt#505-1145 lower, #500-1066 upper), and Spicer 5-760X u-joints.

I've been through plenty of Moog items on my trucks and their quality has been quite variable. Spicer (OE) parts on the other hand have been consistently reliable.

jkent · Apr 30, 2013

4x4junkie said:
If it's not too late, I would suggest exchanging those items for:
Spicer (or Raybestos) Professional Grade balljoints (pt#505-1145 lower, #500-1066 upper), and Spicer 5-760X u-joints.

I've been through plenty of Moog items on my trucks and their quality has been quite variable. Spicer (OE) parts on the other hand have been consistently reliable.

Too late

, ball joints and u-joints are all already installed. I guess I will just cross my fingers and hope for the best. As an update, i have the front differential out and have got the c clip out. I noticed my yoke on the inner-most shaft was all bent up so i'm searching for a used replacement right now. I also noticed the pinch bolt (?) on the driver's side on my differential was broken. Do I need to have a certain oem bolt or can I just run to the hardware store and get something similar for replacement? one more question, Have any of you installed a drain plug in your d35?

brinker88 · Apr 30, 2013

jkent said:
Too late , ball joints and u-joints are all already installed. I guess I will just cross my fingers and hope for the best. As an update, i have the front differential out and have got the c clip out. I noticed my yoke on the inner-most shaft was all bent up so i'm searching for a used replacement right now. I also noticed the pinch bolt (?) on the driver's side on my differential was broken. Do I need to have a certain oem bolt or can I just run to the hardware store and get something similar for replacement? one more question, Have any of you installed a drain plug in your d35?

I smoked my OE spicer ball joints in 3 trips.... :annoyed:

Captain Ledd · Apr 30, 2013

jkent said:
I also noticed the pinch bolt (?) on the driver's side on my differential was broken. Do I need to have a certain oem bolt or can I just run to the hardware store and get something similar for replacement? one more question, Have any of you installed a drain plug in your d35?

Any bolt should do, just get a similar sized grade 8 bolt and some good washers. It doesn't seem like much but not running that bolt can lead to cracks in the beam, so be careful.

As for drain plugs, there's been a few. Some have welded a bung on the front cover, others have ground out the back of the lowest bolt hole, so when removed it doubles as a drain. Personally I think the welded bung is the better route, but if you don't have a welder then the bolt trick might work as well.

4x4junkie · Apr 30, 2013

brinker88 said:
I smoked my OE spicer ball joints in 3 trips....

Your original ones from 1993? I can believe that. They aren't even greaseable.
But replacement ones are.

Of 3 pairs of Moogs I've been through on my BII, it seems only the uppers last any amount of time. One lower had a whopping 1/8" of slop after a mere 5K miles, another lasted 8K, a third had detectable slop at 15K.
Finally I wised up and went with the Spicers I should've gotten in the first place. Almost 20K and the knuckle still has stiffness like right when you put brand new ones in.
Another observation I made while greasing them: Excess grease always spewed out of the Moogs real dirty gray/black and nasty looking, whereas the Spicers, it comes out almost the same color as it goes in (meaning the ball joint isn't breaking down or rapidly wearing out on the inside).

The Spicers on my Ranger are 70K & 11 years old now (and again tight as new last time I checked them maybe a year ago).

There are some people who do swear by Moog though. YMMV.

brinker88 · Apr 30, 2013

4x4junkie said:
Your original ones from 1993? I can believe that. They aren't even greaseable.
But replacement ones are.

Of 3 pairs of Moogs I've been through on my BII, it seems only the uppers last any amount of time. One lower had a whopping 1/8" of slop after a mere 5K miles, another lasted 8K, a third had detectable slop at 15K.
Finally I wised up and went with the Spicers I should've gotten in the first place. Almost 20K and the knuckle still has stiffness like right when you put brand new ones in.
Another observation I made while greasing them: Excess grease always spewed out of the Moogs real dirty gray/black and nasty looking, whereas the Spicers, it comes out almost the same color as it goes in (meaning the ball joint isn't breaking down or rapidly wearing out on the inside).

The Spicers on my Ranger are 70K & 11 years old now (and again tight as new last time I checked them maybe a year ago).

There are some people who do swear by Moog though. YMMV.

No, I bought OEM Spicer ball joints from BroncoGraveyard.

jkent · May 1, 2013

Captain Ledd said:
Any bolt should do, just get a similar sized grade 8 bolt and some good washers. It doesn't seem like much but not running that bolt can lead to cracks in the beam, so be careful.

As for drain plugs, there's been a few. Some have welded a bung on the front cover, others have ground out the back of the lowest bolt hole, so when removed it doubles as a drain. Personally I think the welded bung is the better route, but if you don't have a welder then the bolt trick might work as well.

Would I be okay just drilling a hole in the beam and then tapping it if I came up with a universal drain plug or washered bolt? I found a complete passenger side axle assembly (all 4 sections) for $63, so that way i will have some spare shafts and be able to replace my bad one. After almost 2 hours and looking through probably 20+ rangers in my local junk yard, I FINALLY found a set of thrust washers :icon_hornsup:

Should have all the parts to get my front axle back together this weekend and then my ranger will almost be ready for some play time :yahoo:

Just need to bleed the brakes, try to bleed the slave cylinder, change the fluids, and a little work to the body and i will be ready to rock.

PlumCrazy · May 1, 2013

The be isnt really thick enough. You could weld on a bung, or do what I do with all my TTB pigs.

I drill a hole from rhe inside of the housing into the bottom mounting bolt hole, this way you can just drain it through the mounting hole....

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

alwaysFlOoReD · May 1, 2013

PlumCrazy said:
The beam isnt really thick enough. You could weld on a bung, or do what I do with all my TTB pigs.

I drill a hole from the inside of the housing into the bottom mounting bolt hole, this way you can just drain it through the mounting hole....

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

I didn't understand your post until I flipped back a page. I fixed it for anyone that is too lazy to read the previous posts

For the beam fill hole, a nut-sert and o-ring might work if you can find one big enough.

Also a slight thread jack; about the drill and tap in the beam, there is a process for thin metal;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhkWINPRK3A
The friction drilling probably is too expensive for the average garage mechanic, but I thought it interesting.
Credit: I found the link at "the OFN" in a thread about friction drilling.

Richard

BlackBII · May 1, 2013

I always do mine like what sludge did here:

But, I cut a hole in the bottom of my beam with a hole saw, to access the drain plug with a socket, and so the oil can drain without getting all over the beam

Wicked_Sludge said:
mines right here:

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