easy way to change the radius arm bushings


1991fordranger

10+ Year Member

Joined
Oct 19, 2011
Messages
119
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1,601
Vehicle Year
1991
Transmission
Automatic
what is the easiest way to change the radius arm bushings on my 91 4x4 ranger?
 
Remove 1-1/8" nut on the end of the radius arm. Cut the rivets out (should be two or three per side if they've never been changed) and remove the 4 bolts still holding the hanger on. Remove hanger. Replace bushings and bolt it back together.
 
You could remove the rad arm brackets if they have been replaced in the past, if they are the originals they will be riveted on, I replaced my bent to crap and cracked brackets with the bushings at the same time since both needed it. But other than that, the bushings aren't fun to get at.
 
1991fordranger said:
what is the easiest way to change the radius arm bushings on my 91 4x4 ranger?
Click to expand...

The EASIEST way is to drop it off at a local shop, say "replace these", and pick it up when its done.


The quickest way I've found is to remove the nut off the arm and the pivot bolt from the beam (leave the shock, spring, brakes, sway bar, etc attached). Pull the whole assembly forward about 2 inches, replace the bushing and reinstall everything.
 
^^^ I didn't remove pivot bolt, and used a 2" ratchet strap to pull the beam forward enough to drop the arms out.

Richard
 
alwaysFlOoReD said:
^^^ I didn't remove pivot bolt, and used a 2" ratchet strap to pull the beam forward enough to drop the arms out.

Richard
Click to expand...

I do that on the drivers side, but the pass side doesnt always move enough to do it that way.
 
alwaysFlOoReD said:
^^^ I didn't remove pivot bolt, and used a 2" ratchet strap to pull the beam forward enough to drop the arms out.

Richard
Click to expand...

I tried that with a come-along... and quickly quit when I saw the truck was trying to roll off the jackstand. I had it tied to a tractor infront of it and it might of worked if I had another tractor that moved handy to tie it to from behind but that is a lot of force to put the front end through. I was sliding the rear tires with it as it was...

I ended up cutting an X into the head of the rivets with a cutoff wheel and zipped them off with an air chisel which went very slick.
 
You dont need to have it on jackstands at all.
 
we just did this to my buddies truck. jacked up on the frame right behind the mount. enough to were the tires is on the ground still.. take a ratchet strap and we tied it off to his front bumper... custom bumper.. and it pulled it forward enough to get the radius arm out. just make sure you disconnect your sway bar
 
brinker88 said:
You dont need to have it on jackstands at all.
Click to expand...

Since the truck was sliding ahead and the RA wasn't coming out of the bracket it doesn't really matter much. I don't see how I could get an impact on the swaybar bolts with the wheel in place.

IIRC I had the spring and shock out for replacement already so it was just a limp beam sitting on a floorjack, I was killing a bunch of birds while I was there.
 
Last edited:
I find that it's best to use rubber bushings and not poly, the poly is too stiff and ends up trashing the brackets.
 
I ground the rivets off and removed the radius arm brackets. Replace the rivets with grade 8 bolts.
 
What do the big nuts on the back of the ra torque to??
 
Til they're tight. Then tighten them a little further. They're supposed to be steel lock nuts.
 
I just jacked my frame took off the bottom shock bolt loosened the coil nut spun it out and moved it forward. it takes some pressure but it works good.
 
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