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#1 |
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This might get long but bear with me.
My beloved 96 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3L has had a shimmy (in steering wheel, and seats) for at least a year now and it slowly developed a rattle/clunk under the driver side floor board. I am at my wits end trying to diagnose it. The following describes the steps taken and the results: Front wheel bearings replaced - due to play in the hubs - no noticeable difference in shimmy Tires balanced - little change in shimmy Tires replaced - (end of life) balanced and aligned - some change to shimmy motor mounts replaced - passenger side was shot - some change to shimmy tires road force balanced - some change to shimmy radius arm bushings changed - some change to shimmy All tie rod ends, ball joints, and sway bar bushings seem tight to me and have been checked by 3 different shops, all say they are good. Today, I had my son start the truck and turn the wheel back and forth while I lay under the truck and watch the steering linkage. The only noticeable "play" is where the pitman arm and drag link connect. When the wheel is turned to its farthest point in either direction I notice a quarter inch or so deviation between the pitman arm and drag link end. As he turns the wheel in short bursts near the farthest point I can feel a slight knock in the sway bar and near the steering pump on the inner tie rod ends, but cant pinpoint its exact location. I can also feel a small knock intermittently in my steering wheel when starting or stopping. During the road force balance they were unable to bring two of the tires into the 30lb limit so I think that is causing some of my shimmy/vibration. My main concern is the knocking and looseness in the steering wheel that I am unable to diagnose. I suspect the inner tie rod ends but don't want to spend more money until I am sure of the issue. I also just had it aligned again about two weeks ago when I had the radius bushings changed. The shop said it was pulling left. I just noticed it starting to pull left already, so I don't think the truck is holding an alignment. Doesn't that point to worn tie rods? Can I have looseness in the tie rod end and not see play? Should there be any play at all on the inner tie rod ends? Both have a little bit of movement. Thanks in advance for anyone's help. I am rather handy and have learned a lot from these forums. |
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#2 |
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Mall-Rated
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: So. Calif (SFV)
Year: 1990,1994
Make: Ford
Model: Bronco II, Ranger
Engine: 2.9L, 4.0L
Used For: Crawling over things
Posts: 8,008
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I'm thinking anything at all loose could cause a knock or clunk in the wheel... I'd certainly be looking closer at the draglink at the pitman arm if you think you're seeing some play there.
Is the tire place doing a proper dynamic balance on your wheels? (puts weight on BOTH sides of the rims)? If not, this could certainly lead to shaking or a shimmy in the steering wheel.
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'90 Bronco II XLT 5" lift (Skyjacker Jeep coils), D35 & 8.8" w/5.13s (locked), 1354 dual T-case, 35x12.50s '94 Ranger XLT 6" Skyjacker, ARB D44 front, Detroit 8.8" rear, Atlas 4.3, 33s |
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#3 | |
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Thanks for the response junkie.
Quote:
I should note that all my tie rod end boots have split, but I have kept them pretty well greased. Yes I have weights on the inner and outer portions of the rims. |
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#4 | |
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Quote:
Sounds like the radius arm bushing or brackets are due. Or perhaps a steering column bearing, or body mount? |
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Guilford, CT
Year: 2006, 1994
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger, Explorer
Engine: 4.0 SOHC, 4.0 OHV
Class: 4x4
Used For: Pavement Poundin'
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If you're feeling it mostly in the seat and not the steering wheel, it's probably something related to the rear suspension. Your rear brake drums could be out of round.
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2006 Ford Ranger Sport 4x4 2-dr Extended Cab, 45k miles 1994 Ford Explorer Sport 2-dr 4x4, 178k miles |
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#7 |
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Premium Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: E-City, NC
Year: 2000
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 3.0
Class: 4WD
Used For: DD
Posts: 2,769
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"rattle/clunk under the driver side floor board."
"The only noticeable "play" is where the pitman arm and drag link connect. When the wheel is turned to its farthest point in either direction I notice a quarter inch or so deviation between the pitman arm and drag link end." Play there (center link) will cause the steering to wander. 1/4" of play is excessive.
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If at first, you don't succeed, RTFM. |
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#8 |
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Looks like it will end up being my axle pivot bushings. Got under there and noticed the passenger side bushing (located under the drivers side) was shiny metal indicating it moving around. I could never get the weight off it right in order to move it by hand. The concern now is whether the end link has become an oval. If it has I will have to change the axle as well.
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#9 |
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Both axle pivot bushings replaced. One side was showing extensive wear and the axle was pushed all the way to the back of the bracket, bending the bracket. On the way home over my usual bumps I hear/feel the dreaded clunk clunk under my feet.
The truck definitely rides better, but it did not solve my issue. I guess I will keep looking. |
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#10 | |
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Boost Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jackson, NJ
Year: 94,94,95,01
Make: All 10 are Ford
Model: Ex, Cobra, Ex, Ranger
Engine: 4.0,5.0,4BT,4.0
Class: none
Used For: Going places.
Posts: 3,072
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'95 Explorer -- EEC-IV SOHC swap. Now getting a "moderately built" 4BT Cummins, ZF, 4406, US Gear OD unit, 13" Cobra brakes, '99 Cobra wheels,.... 4BT swap thread Ranger bed trailer build Scars are just tattoos... with better stories! |
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#11 |
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Checked all body mounts - all tight
Checked transmission cross-member and mount - good Checked all shocks and mounts - tightened the two pass side shock mounts Checked front and rear U-Joints- no noticeable play, but I can move the drive line by hand and the whole thing can twist back and forth. Like there is movement in the differential and transmission. I assume there should be some? Removed drums and check rear axle shafts and bearings - very little play and no leakage from bearings Removed sway bar assembly and noticed the top sway bar end-links are cracked, and bushings are pretty much shot. When I drove the truck with the sway bar removed the noise seems more prevalent especially when the weight shifts to the passenger side of the truck. But nothing is loose or worn. One word describes me now....................baffled.
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#12 |
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New Member
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Changed out sway bar end links. The radius arm bushings, axle pivot bushings, and sway bar end links really tightened up the front of the truck.
But alas, the noise persists. I guess I will keep monitoring it to try and track down what it is. Whatever it is, I feel like at this point it is not a safety concern with all the front end stuff I have replaced. When I get some more free time I might take apart the drivers side wheel assembly to see if it might be something related to the hub or brakes, but I doubt it. |
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